Engine too powerful for spur?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Tatter

Active Member
Messages
53
I've got a Savage with the 4.6 HO and plastic 49T spurs. I ate the teeth on my first spur. So I made sure I shimmed my second spur right (3-fold paper trick) but I notice that I'm gradually eating up the teeth on this one too. Could the HO motor just be too much for the plastic spur? Does anyone with this motor have the same problem or strictly run metal spurs?
 
No, its not too powerful. Tighten the slipper all the way and back off 1/8 of a turn. Loose slippers strip spurs on hard landings.

3 fold trick? I've only seen people using a single piece of paper, no fold. I set mine by ear. Rolling it, you can tell when its too tight. I set it too tight, snug the bolts and roll it back and forth and it usually loosens by itself to the right mesh.
 
After you set your mesh, hold the CB and move the spur. You should feel a very slight amount of play.

Check your motor mount, if the threads are stripped it may cause problems.
 
ya i was gonna say the same thing actually as I'm running the xtm 457 engine with a plastic spur and I'm not having any problems and the engine has a claimed hp of 3.8 which is alot more then hpi some trucks were sent from the hpi factory "meshed" wrong i heard but the newer ones have the problem fixed
 
After you set your mesh, hold the CB and move the spur. You should feel a very slight amount of play.

Check your motor mount, if the threads are stripped it may cause problems.

I did this, saw it on a link to youtube (holding the cb and looking for spur wiggle). Once, I had to replace that purple anodized plate that the pot-metal motor mount bolts to... and after pulling my motor yesterday noticed two of the screws were loose. So everyone can now learn from my mistake.

Someone on here posted about folding the paper 3-times and said it worked great. And it did work great, until my new plate loosened up. Next time I'll use more Loc-Tite.
 
thats how i do all mine is to fold it 3 times and mash the cb into the sg as hard as i can and it will have just a little movement when you move the paper out.
and always use loc-tite

just my 2 cents
 
I had the same issue with my 4.6 motor is tite nothing is moving yet even at part moving if I nail the throttle it instantly stripped every plastic gear I put on.11 out of 11 gears .I changed to a steel spur and stopped that issue
 
I had the same issue with my 4.6 motor is tite nothing is moving yet even at part moving if I nail the throttle it instantly stripped every plastic gear I put on.11 out of 11 gears .I changed to a steel spur and stopped that issue
A metal spur gear is defo the way to go to sort this issue out but if you have your spur gear adjusted right then the plastic gear works well unless you have a Flux truck were metal is the only way to go. Have 13 Savages with a range of engines from .25(4.1cc) to .36(5.9c) all but one are running plastic spurs and have ever only stripped 1 gear and this was down to not setting the spur/clutch bell clearance right( to much free play).
now I know this sounds like an anorak talking but that's probably what I am. I spend more time tuning and adjusting savages than actually running them, but the manuals say the clearance is a piece of paper, well have worked in the paper industry for the last 9 years and paper anit just paper. 2 pieces of 75gsm paper is the perfect thickness to put between the gears to set the clearance, unless your running a flux or doing silly jumps with this setting you shouldn't strip your gear.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Back
Top