Direct drop in engines for Savage XL?

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Brixfix13

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What are some good options for direct fit motors on the savage xl 5.9?
 
A lot of folks go with either a lrp or picco for a replacement. Do a search on the forum search bar for replacement motors. Lots of helpful info here to look over.
 
I was thinking about the lrp. 32 but wanted to see what else is out there.

I searched replacement motors and got nothing
 
Budget aside, price doesn't really matter to me. Just a dependable, strong, easy tuning motor is what I'm after....
 
Personally, I'd stay away from the dynamite spin/pull start combo engines. It's pretty fragile, the pull start clutch breaks and with the spin start in the middle of the housing, that part would be useless on a savage anyway.

I've run a few different engines in my savage over the years. I have found the LRP28 and 30 don't seem to care for the stock tank at all, but work well with a more uniform tank.
 
So I keep getting the lrp motors recommended everywhere I ask....I'm interested in the lrp .30 and .32. My next question is which one? Of course I like the idea of the . 32 but I've been told it's going to break a lot more parts. Won't that be the case with both motors? I mean there's not a lot of difference in the 2 by looking at their spec sheets. Is the .32 really going to be that much more devastating?
 
olds97_lss said:
Personally, I'd stay away from the dynamite spin/pull start combo engines. It's pretty fragile, the pull start clutch breaks and with the spin start in the middle of the housing, that part would be useless on a savage anyway.

I've run a few different engines in my savage over the years. I have found the LRP28 and 30 don't seem to care for the stock tank at all, but work well with a more uniform tank.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by a more uniform tank? I plan on doing the mid tank mod
 
One that is a more consistent shape from top to bottom vs the upside down L that the stock tank is.

I mention the pull/spinstart combo thing because a bashing buddy of mine had another guys truck at his house so he could help him figure out what it was worth to sell. I had 4 or 5 broken spin-starts among his parts.

As for which LRP to run, I've run the 28S3 and 30S2 in my savage X. Both do a really good job, but the 30 has noticeably more low end torque than the 28. The 28 itself is no slouch. I've run one in 2 savage's, a heavily modified aftershock (cheaper losi LST) and a big block revo. They are very dependable engines that live a long life if properly cared for.

Since your putting it in an XL vs an X, more torque will help with wheelies. The 28 or 30 in my savage makes it a wheelie monster. I only got the 30 because my 28 was giving me fits. Pretty sure it was just the tank, because the 30 also gave me fits until I replaced the tank with an OFNA buggy tank. Now it runs really well.

Kind of surprised a-main only has one LRP listed. Tower has 5 listed. Looks like the 28S3 has been discontinued as has the 30S2.

For a rig the size of the XL, if you haven't upgraded to super HD wheel dogbones/cups and BP diffs, you probably will at some point regardless what engine you run. My LRP28 took out non-BP diffs in pretty short order. The BP diffs and super HD bones/cups have been holding up for a long time with both the 28 and 30.
 
Any suggestions on a more uniform tank? I'm going to do the mid tank mod but would like to grab something just to get me going. After reading about it more, I'm positive my stock tank was a lot of my issues with the 5.9
 
I have tried looking for a good mid tank for my savage. It already had a tank but it was too small for my liking. I wanted a longer run time. I am waiting for a mugen 145cc tank and it still hasn't arrived in my mail yet. I have read somewhere someone using it so I went with it as well since it was the largest capacity tank I could find.
 
I'm not looking for a mid tank at this moment. I'm still trying to decide how I'm going to go about the mid tank mod. There's lots of good info on it and I want to explore all options before deciding. Right now I'm just looking for a better tank to replace the stock tank with and hopefully do away with the mid tank lean. Something just to get me going without the risk of running a new motor lean do to the tank. ..any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
You can add a header tank from Dubro. They are usually for planes but you can use the 2oz which is easy to fit at the rear shock tower. Or a bigger one if you decide to replace the radio box etc. Eliminates the half tank lean and your car wont shut when its turned over
 
I'm looking for info about what the motor might break once installed. I understand nothing is needed to install it. If there's anything I can upgrade now to help prevent future issues I will.
 
You wont break anything solely because of the engine. The XL comes with SHD parts already. So its pretty much drop it and play.
 
I know parts break and I'm all good with that. I've had a few people recommend the . 30 over the .32 because they say the .32 is constantly breaking parts. There's not a ton of difference in the 2 motors according to the specs. I personally feel both motors would cause the same issues regardless and believe it's more about driving styles.
 
You will be fine with the .32. Theres really nothing to worry about. The XL are factory fitted with Super HD parts. Now if say, you were to convert the normal X to brushless then it'd mean a lot to upgrade. Since thats not the case, you are all good.
 
Ok so I have the .32 in my shopping cart ready for purchase and just need to decide on a tuned pipe. Any recomentations?
 
Now thats somethingbI cant help you with since i nevet looked into it. I have a .28 but i cant recall the pipe i have in it. Its from Hobao and its for .21 engine. I got it off a guy i purchased the engine from, hence why I don't remember.
 
I run a losi HT pipe with my LRP's and they seem to like it. It's a bit more restrictive than the stock HPI pipe. The pipe came off an LST and since I needed to use a silicone coupler instead of springs (2 piece pipe vs 1 piece), I ground down one of the ridges on the pipe neck so the ziptie would have something to bite down to. I also use a little L bracket to support the pipe so it doesn't flop around. It's a bit hack, but I like how the engines run with that pipe, so I live with it.
 
I would prefer to have something that hooks up clean without additional modification
 
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