for some reason my front diff keeps locking/binding. all the parts are brand new. Gh aluminum case, 4 bevel gears and 30,000 weight oil. The axles bind up and lock together like the internal gears are binding up. everything is in correctly. I ripped it apart and rebuilt it but it still locks up. I don't know if the spacing in the case is somwhat wrong. anyone know whats goin on? thanks
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diff locking/binding
- Thread starter duff
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Jeepguy
Member
- Messages
- 43
HI Duff,
I just recently rebuilt my front diff, (I have aluminum cases front and rear and 4 bevel gears and I run 8000 weight). I found after a bash session, probably 4 or 5 tanks after building the diffs with the cases and gears that the front was not operating smoothly.. like the gears were broken and causing the diff to lock up.. or at least seem so. Upon opening up the diff, I found the 4 screws that hold the ring gear to the diff case, were slightly loose.... not all the way out or anything, just slighly loose. There was a very small amount of play between the ring gear and the case, but probably enough to allow the bevel gears to get out of alignment inside the case and bind. I rebuild the entire diff, put in a new gasket, filled the case with 8000 weight again, and used a small amt of blue locktite this time. So far so good, the diff works better than ever. Now I also did notice that the oil that I took out had all sorts of fine silver color to it. I don't know if that's from the new parts wearing together.. or if it was just wear from the misalignment when the case came loose. Eitherway, something wasn't right. All I'm saying is this. After building your diff, you should be able to turn both side cups smoothly, as well as the center diff cup. Make sure it's operating properly before installing it back in the truck. Now while 30000 weight oil is VERY heavy, and used for a locking effect, it still shouldnt keep your diff from working. It should still allow for your left and right side to turn at different speeds. So double check for smooth operation outside the truck. Then check for correct alignment of the pinion and ring gears, then check that there isn't a problem outside the diffs.. (bent dogbones, broken or misaligned bearings at the wheels,etc.) and lastly, consider using a lighter weight diff oil.. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Vinny
I just recently rebuilt my front diff, (I have aluminum cases front and rear and 4 bevel gears and I run 8000 weight). I found after a bash session, probably 4 or 5 tanks after building the diffs with the cases and gears that the front was not operating smoothly.. like the gears were broken and causing the diff to lock up.. or at least seem so. Upon opening up the diff, I found the 4 screws that hold the ring gear to the diff case, were slightly loose.... not all the way out or anything, just slighly loose. There was a very small amount of play between the ring gear and the case, but probably enough to allow the bevel gears to get out of alignment inside the case and bind. I rebuild the entire diff, put in a new gasket, filled the case with 8000 weight again, and used a small amt of blue locktite this time. So far so good, the diff works better than ever. Now I also did notice that the oil that I took out had all sorts of fine silver color to it. I don't know if that's from the new parts wearing together.. or if it was just wear from the misalignment when the case came loose. Eitherway, something wasn't right. All I'm saying is this. After building your diff, you should be able to turn both side cups smoothly, as well as the center diff cup. Make sure it's operating properly before installing it back in the truck. Now while 30000 weight oil is VERY heavy, and used for a locking effect, it still shouldnt keep your diff from working. It should still allow for your left and right side to turn at different speeds. So double check for smooth operation outside the truck. Then check for correct alignment of the pinion and ring gears, then check that there isn't a problem outside the diffs.. (bent dogbones, broken or misaligned bearings at the wheels,etc.) and lastly, consider using a lighter weight diff oil.. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Vinny
- Thread starter
- #3
I'm assuming i had the same problem because the 4 screws were a little loose and the spider gears looked rounded off. I replaced all the inner gears and put removable lock tite on it. Works very smooth now. I think it should be good for a while. Thanks for the reply vinny
Jeepguy
Member
- Messages
- 43
No problem Duff, it seems as though it doesn't take much in the way of play from the screws loosening up to cause this problem. So for anyone else out there reading, it would seem that you want to make sure that not only are the screws tight, but that they're gonna stay tight. Aluminum diff cups are always gonna have a propensity to allow the metal screws to back out, and it's just a good idea to use locktite on ANY fasteners that are metal to metal.. The plastic diff cups and NYLOCK fasteners have a built in locking feature with the friction created by the plastic. Happy Bashing.
Vinny
Vinny
