DESTROYING SPUR GEARS

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kelly2727

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13
Okay so I recently started getting back into the RC hobby. After researching pre-owned savages in my general area (Calgary Alberta, Canada). I found a savage X 4.6 with a brand new dynamite ? big red Mach 2 .28 that was totally rebuilt from the ground up. All the hardware was replaced with stainless bolts and screws. And all major components were changed out with new parts. It was obvious that it was taken care of and done properly. After I finished breaking in the new engine and actually started driving it like a savage should be and putting the power to it I just shred plastic spur gears like they’re nothing. I think it’s been 5 in the last couple weeks. Every time took it out I would shred a spur gear. There was one time where maybe my meshing was a little loose because I was just trying something different after going through one or two. I’ve just ordered a metal spur gear from my LHS but now it’s a couple week wait until it arrives. It’s just been frustrating going through so many gears when I know that my meshing was okay. Engine mounts were tight and thread lock added. Could it be my clutch bell? It looks fine to me. But I don’t know. Just frustrating.
 
I just found a rock Jammed in around there. Maybe that is part of the issue. I need to get a centre skid plate
 
Got any photo's of the spurs?

I rarely burn the teeth off a plastic spur, but I have melted/deformed them due to the slipper slipping too much. I find that when you have an engine that can pull a taller gear, it transfers more stress to the slipper. When I ran 49/15 (maybe 49/16), the plastic slipper was fine with an LRP28 in it, but as soon as I tried a 47T, it was just enough to cause it to slip unless I fully locked the slipper down, which kind of defeated it's purpose. I ended up going with a 47T steel spur and the slipper spring fully compressed, but not "tight", so it would still slip during extreme shock, but the steel spur could handle the heat.

Smaller/lighter tires and lower gearing helped my issue.

I did have issue keeping a spur though when my motor mount was cracked. Was something I didn't see until I removed the engine. Later, I had a similar issue running the steel spur, it sounded overly noisy at times, like the engine was moving on me and messing up my mesh. Hard to hear over the engine, but it was noticeable. Found that my engine bay plate itself had cracked half way across where it bolts to the rear most chassis brace. If I had been running a plastic spur, it would have surely taken the spur out with it.
 
I just ran out to do a few things. I will post up some pictures of the spur gears when I get back. I’m going to check the engine mount too when I get home. But I will send some pictures soon. I ordered a Robertson racing 47 tooth metal spur. Also noticed some rocks getting in around the breaks and whatnot. So I ordered a center skid plate as well
 
Yes good move on centre skid plate a must have, never understood why on later models was never fitted or available as an upgrade by HPI.
Have you got a Hardened c/bell to go with S/gear?
 
Check for cracks in engine mount plate with motor out, a close inspection may find a crack where it is narrow, allowing the engine to move/tilt.
 
I don’t think I have a hardened one. But I do have a random 19 tooth one that looks like it could be hardened steel. I’ll take some pics now
 
Believe it or not it was spotless right before this rip around the back ally and a few jumps. But there they are in their melted shedded glory!
 

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I’m just going to pull the motor now. Going to take the engine off the mount and the mount off the chassis give it a blast with break cleaner and inspect everything really well.
 
Check the screws that hold the plate down to the cross members. Those screws always refused to stay tight for me, even with liberal locite. I usually use longer screws, with loctite through the cross members and put locknuts on the bottom.

Also post up a photo of the bell meshed with the spur if you can. Also make sure that the engine is straight, the input shaft to the trans spins true and there's no slop in the input shaft bearings.

Crazy that your going through spurs like that. I don't think I went through more than 2 or 3 spurs the 15 years I've owned a savage, aside from melting the center out of them while fighting the gearing/slipper issue. Even then, I went through like 3 of them and gave up for the steel spur.

Make sure to get a HD/hardened bell for your new spur or it will chew the teeth right off the bell. I've done that before... makes an awful racket. ;) Made for a pretty spark show though...

2004-0921-TMaxx-ChewedCB02.jpg
 
Holy hell that clutch bell is mangled ! Yes I’ll have to find a part number and have it ordered with the rest of my stuff through my LHS And all of the screws are straight everything else is pretty much new all rebuilt by previous owner. Once I get my new parts I’ll post it all back together and meshed. Thank you for the advice and input. I really appreciate it! ??
 
I had that exact same problem on a savage I bought for my son a few years ago. would tear up a hardened clutchbell within 2 min. of running. I went through 4 clutchbells. an added note would be to check your gearing and gears in diffs. some one may have installed different gearing in front or back that doesn't match up causing binding in the drive train. also check mesh between ring gear and pinion, and check all bearings in and around diffs and pinions .
 
I have these though. Gonna put it on. Or try. Never done this before
 

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Ohh god. I tore it all apart and I don’t know how to put this new one back together Ugh
 
[QUOTE="olds97_lss, post: 218293

2004-0921-TMaxx-ChewedCB02.jpg

Olds , I think I have told you this before but Its worth repeating ,YOU ARE THE MASTER OF DISASTER .
 
Ohh god. I tore it all apart and I don’t know how to put this new one back together Ugh


I thought there was a tutorial on here some were but I couldn't find it. If someone knows were it's at please post link , Otherwise search "Youtube" for replacing clutch shoes for Savage , There's more than enough to get you on the right track.
 
Turns out the spare aftermarket shoe kit I had was not the correct one. But my LHS has an aftermarket aluminum one. I’ll have to go pick it up. Still waiting on metal spur gears and a centre skid plate
 
Stay plastic, something jams with metal it transfer and potentially damage other parts further up the drivetrain. At least if something jams it strip the plastic spur
 

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