Destroying CB's

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ADD

New Member
Messages
2
I continuously destroy my CB's and its getting beyond frustrating. I'm running a 48T/16T combination, I'm looking for more bottom/midrange torque so what should I change ? 20210619_102514.jpg20210619_102613.jpg20210619_102623.jpg
 
@ADD

RULE OF THUMB , IF YOU RUN A STEEL SPUR GEAR THEN YOU NEED TO RUN A H.D. CLUTCH BELL LIKE A ROBINSON RACING ONE OR THEY WILL END UP LIKE YOUR SET OF PAPER WEIGHTS
ALSO MAKE SURE YOUR MESH IS SET UP RIGHT . SEE LINK :

http://www.robinsonracing.com/index.html

SETTING SPUR GEAR / C.B. MESH :
 

Attachments

  • SAVGAGE SETTING SPUR GEAR MESH.pdf
    629.1 KB · Views: 3
Last edited:
ELWOOD is spot on with his recommendations, and to add if your looking for more bottom end torque stick with a 15T hardened clutchbell gear. Set your gear "backlash" so you can feel just a tiny bit of play in the gears all the way around the spur gear. It's very common for the spur gear to not run completely "true" so you need to feel for the "tight spot" and set your backlash at that point . You will know when you have the ideal mesh when the gears rotate with a very smooth rotational feel with no interference.
 
Oso I just ordered part # 7048 from Robinson Racing (48T/16T) .. So with this whole mesh thing , I've tried the paper trick, tried tight/loose. I'm sure the last time I had it right, as it makes the slightest tingy sound when spun , or am I off by saying that ?
 
Buy a plastic spur. Mesh it right, locktite the engine and forget the problem.
 
Buy a plastic spur. Mesh it right, locktite the engine and forget the problem.
Then all you have to worry about is the center melting out of it when it does slip...

You should be ok if your using hardened bells. That's what I ran on mine with the HPI steel spur which was half as thick as your spur, so it was putting more stress on the bell teeth since the load was contacting half what yours is.

The old OFNA hardened bells were my go-to. Guessing hong nor still makes them as does Tekno. Or you can just get the HPI "heavy duty" bells. Those are supposed to be hardened.
 
Oso I just ordered part # 7048 from Robinson Racing (48T/16T) .. So with this whole mesh thing , I've tried the paper trick, tried tight/loose. I'm sure the last time I had it right, as it makes the slightest tingy sound when spun , or am I off by saying that ?
Mesh is critical, the Robinson bell gears are really good but can be stripped if not setup 100%. My buddy has a Picco motor in his Savage and that will chew up any gear if not setup properly. Very torquey motor but runs really well and makes great power. Hard on drivetrain parts though
 
Also check that the engine plate itself isn't cracked and the screws to the chassis braces are tight/thread locked and the chassis braces to the chassis are tight/thread locked.

I had a bad mesh with my X once and the plate itself was cracked. Didn't see it until I removed the engine and mount completely out of the truck.

That line in the upper right corner was a crack from the edge of the pate to almost the screw that was holding it down. With the engine in the truck, I could press on it and see the mesh change.
2019-0508-SavageX-CrackedEnginePlate.jpg
 

Latest posts

Members online

Back
Top