Clutch shoes 87151 question

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B3master

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8
Howdy all I was just wondering what do the w and s stand for on the clutch shoes?

Can they be put in reverse direction for more bite?
 
I thought the spring (wrt shoe weight) managed engagement rpm

I didnt want to experiment and have improper wear, hoped somone can confirm if it will have more aggressive bite or it is just noteing which way is front and rear in some language....

Ill try to upload images i found on net since mine are installed now

It could mean Weak and Strong
 

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Those are simply carbon shoes, the springs are measured in 1.0 or 1.1 and so on.... if you want real hitting power you should go for alloy shoes and get some 1.0 and 1.1 springs to control engagement......


DSCN1933.jpg
 
I'm just bashing around and enjoyed the less troublesome less maintenance you can say maintenance FREE of the ptfe carbon/nylon/teflon clutch shoes

The alloy shoes need to be deburred before they become troublesome and Iv had my fair share of broken springs only on alloy shoes

Heck iv had a couple incidents car was jammed somwhere with partial or wot throttle (receiver batt dead) was able to hold the car and choke the engine without harm to engine transmisson car and myself with little wear on the shoes :D

So, question is, what effect is there if shoes were to be installed backwards, regardless of its material....??
 
You mentioned it affects engagement rpm, which i dought... since as i mentioned engagement rpm is dependant on clutch shoe weight and spring stiffness regardless of clutch shoe direction...

Have you personaly tried it in reverse and noticed engagement rpm difference?
 
if you doubt it , instead of asking questions why don't you try it yourself????
Nothing more educational than firsthand experience
DSCN5705.JPG
 
stop and think about that question a minute, mounted in reverse means that the heavy part of the shoe is not leading but trailing which means the shoes engagement is going to be slowed regardless of spring tension....
 
if you doubt it , instead of asking questions why don't you try it yourself????
Nothing more educational than firsthand experience
View attachment 5570

I agree that first hand experience is best, but thats why we have a forum as an experience database we can ask either to confirm what we experienced or to know what we are going to experience, or just to inquire what others have experienced...

stop and think about that question a minute, mounted in reverse means that the heavy part of the shoe is not leading but trailing which means the shoes engagement is going to be slowed regardless of spring tension....

I think your on to somthing there, but i think the heavy part is leading now instead of trailing, while trailing it would seem there is extra leverage on the weight and would indeed engage earlier. But the forces applied here as centrifugal forces perpendicular to the weight forcing it outward, being perpendicular it shouldnt differ if it was trailing or leading....

However i think being in trailing position the friction forces between clutch bell and clutch shoes are weaker it would affect more slipage and less wear, on the otherhand when the weight is leading the friction forces are more direct and as if no way of escape, it would have more direct force on the clutch bell that might cause more friction more bite and more wear....
 
I think you both have a point , Found this article and yes it's a two shoe clutch but the same concept-

Clutch set-up




Left picture shows clutch shoes in the trailing edge (stock) configuration. However, the clutch shoes can be installed in reverse for a snappier bite, and/or modified for a different engagement feel. The clutch shoes can be shaved for a later engagement. This can be useful for getting more punch out of your engine. Make sure that you take the same amount of material off of both shoes, and be careful not to take off too much material, as this will soften the engagement too much, and accelerate shoe wear.


Use a hobby knife to shave the material off of the clutch shoe. Only shave a small amount at a time, and make sure that each shoe is cut identical to each other.
This will level out the wear, and provide better clutch performance.

Clutch shoes are already cut from the factory, but you can experiment by shaving off a little more material for later engagements. The stock shoes are uncut and will engage a little sooner than the cut ones. These can be helpful on a slick track with a lot of loose dirt on top of the surface. Be careful not to remove too much material from the shoes, as this will leave the shoes too “light”. They will not engage the clutch bell firmly, defeating your purpose of getting more punch out of the truck. Trim a little, and then try them out in the truck to see what works better.
 
People put the shoes on backwards to increase bite strength. However, it's basically jamming the shoe into itself and tends to break the shoe over the long haul. It's something guys used to do a lot on the 2 shoe clutches in things like the old savage 21 and traxxas clutches. It doesn't change when it engages, just the friction applied since it's driving the shoe into the bell vs dragging it against the bell. At least, that's the theory.
 

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