can i replace the silicone pipe coupler with a different better coupler?

[pelicanprentice]

hello, i have a savage x 4.6 and i recently got the hpi aluminum tuned pipe because my old plastic pipe broke. i have it connected to the header with a silicome coupler but i have some doubts on the coupler that it leaks etc, i feel like the coupler is too long and that my header and pipe arent sealed to the best of there ability. i have seen that some better pipes have some type of screw on or metal coupler that they use.

do you guys know of any coupler that i can use on my pipe to replace the silicone coupler?

thx

 

[Bluetickduke]

I haven't seen anything that can handle the heat over time but I'm interested to hear if anyone else has any ideas..

Following!

I just use the silicone ones I've never had an issue with sealing to be honest..

 

[Bluetickduke]

You could get some high temp silicone hose that has an ID that is close to the size you need and give that a shot

Thats what I did on my 1/5 scale and it worked excellent

 

[ELWOOD]

@olds97_lss put this up a while back :

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/I'm-getting-the-itch.18879/post-211023

 

[Deku]

hello, i have a savage x 4.6 and i recently got the hpi aluminum tuned pipe because my old plastic pipe broke. i have it connected to the header with a silicome coupler but i have some doubts on the coupler that it leaks etc, i feel like the coupler is too long and that my header and pipe arent sealed to the best of there ability. i have seen that some better pipes have some type of screw on or metal coupler that they use.

do you guys know of any coupler that i can use on my pipe to replace the silicone coupler?

thx

If you are concerner about air leaks on de coupler, go to a market that sells (water)hose clamps, the ones you can tighten with a phillips screw driver(i don't know the exact name of the clamps).
And clamp the silicon to the header and pipe to create the seal. I have done this too because i don't like air leaks.

 

[olds97_lss]

@olds97_lss put this up a while back :

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/I'm-getting-the-itch.18879/post-211023

Looks like my images are dead. Here's one of them:

I use it on my BB revo now too:

Silbrade .625"
5/8" ID
15/16" OD

 

[Deku]

Looks like my images are dead. Here's one of them:

I use it on my BB revo now too:

Silbrade .625"
5/8" ID
15/16" OD

wait doesnt this material melt in the long run?
I'm considering doing this too instead of the usual RC couplers.
but i'd hate if it melts directly on the pipe and header meaning i have more cleaning up to do..

 

[olds97_lss]

wait doesnt this material melt in the long run?
I'm considering doing this too instead of the usual RC couplers.
but i'd hate if it melts directly on the pipe and header meaning i have more cleaning up to do..

No. It's silicone. It lasts a really long time. Really, I've never replaced a piece due to damage or melting and I've been using it for quite a few years.

 

[Gazzman]

Does anyone suffer from the cable ties that clamp the silicon coupler breaking due to the heat. I have tried many different brands but I am finding on all my 4.6 and 5.9 mills that the ties seem to snap on the mainifold end after a couple of tanks.
Not a major issue as just put another one on just a pain in the arse. Dosen't happen on my two 4.1 mills using the same ties so must be heat related.

 

[olds97_lss]

Does anyone suffer from the cable ties that clamp the silicon coupler breaking due to the heat. I have tried many different brands but I am finding on all my 4.6 and 5.9 mills that the ties seem to snap on the mainifold end after a couple of tanks.
Not a major issue as just put another one on just a pain in the arse. Dosen't happen on my two 4.1 mills using the same ties so must be heat related.

Try making a support for the center of the pipe. Doesn't need to be anything fancy. Just a heavy wire screwed to the side of the chassis with a piece of fuel tube on it so it doesn't damage the pipe. It helps hold the weight of the header/pipe when your jumping and keeps it from stressing the coupler and header gasket. I used 1/4" round bar, but you can use smaller stuff too.

 

[guinnessdublin]

Got me thinking about this Gazzman & was wondering if you could use the metal one time use clamps used on motor vehicle hose pipes that look like jubilee clips, wouldn’t know where to get them from though?

 

[guinnessdublin]

Found these!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRVINE-M...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

[Gazzman]

Yo Bro thought you had died, LOL. Not been on here for a while. Was looking at metal clamps. This ain't down to jumps and bumps, but due to heat. As you know I don't bash my trucks, just run them round the park, Only happens on the 4.6 and above mills. Probably snapped about 20 now and all in the same place, just behind the clip/lock part of the tye. Which says to me it is a stress break caused by the heat.

 

[guinnessdublin]

Lol still here & look in!
Yes get it’s the heat from mill, do you think above clamps would work think I saw19mm also?

 

[Gazzman]

Yes think that type of clamp would defo work. will need to measure the outter dia of the coupler to get the righr size, but 19mm sounds about right.
Would go for the 3 spring manifold to pipe coupler but the savage uses a kinked back manifold to avoid contacting the shock when using a twin shock setup. No other exhaust katters for this. This problem dosn't exist with the XL, Truckizilla or any extended TVPs only with the std or X TVPs when running dual shocks.

 

[guinnessdublin]

The exhaust set I got from RC scrapyard even with my extended TVPs seems to have good clearance mate?

 

[Gazzman]

Yer I know. I said that you have to use the Savage manifold with the std tvps if using twin shocks. Of course you have the clearence with the extend tvp set as the shock mounts are futher back from the engine.

 

[guinnessdublin]

What can I say, it’s been along week mate, Lol!

 

[Gazzman]