Broke 2 con rods in 1 week HELP!

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LRP .32 or Nova 28-8. The more refined engine being the 28-8. ?
 
Get a pull start. Although you won't be able to start the engine with the body on unless you cut a hole on the body you won't have to worry about a broken roto start rod, batteries or anything else. You most likely got a roto starter with your savage but no telling with type of input the engine will have and you don't want to get your engine then have to search for a roto starter rod. I been through it. I got my novarossi engine to have to go buy a roto start rod that didn't fit my roto starter so I had to use a drill. Broke two rods. Finally got tired and just changed it to pull start. Cost me over 40 bucks. Get the pull start. As always never shop RC planet due to their terrible customer service reps. Mainly Nicole.
 
I prefer a pull-start. Lets you feel what the engine is doing, hopefully before damage, if flooded, you can feel it fight you easier. Also, less stuff to carry around and charge.
 
Pullstart vs Rotostart debate will always rage on, but honestly, it's 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. There isn't really a right or wrong answer.

You'd have to be pretty heavy handed with a rotostart to do the engine damage - the one way bearing would normally give up before anything else. If you use a decent cordless drill/driver, remember - use the lowest torque setting that allows the engine to turn over.

Pullstart

Pros:

Less stuff to take with you/charge up
You can feel if the engine is beginning to flood

Cons:

Broken strings
Blisters
Not easy living with a pullstart during the break in stage
Tune has to be right in the zone

Rotostart/Drill start

Pros:

Less effort required
Quicker and generally easier starting

Cons:

Can be tougher on one way bearings
More stuff to take to the field
Not all engines have a rotostart back plate option, limiting your choice of engine

It's not easy engineering a pullstart to be strong at this scale for micro engines. Both pullstarters and rotostarts rely on one way bearings and mechanisms that engage the Crank shaft - typically via a pin in through the big end.

So, if you buy a non pullstart engine (designed for buggies/truggies for use with a starter box) you would typically have to change the crankshaft as well buying all the right gubbins to convert it to either pullstart or rotostart.

It's better to just buy the right engine to begin with - don't waste time buying a bumpstart engine for your Savage. ?
 
Once again I highly suggest pull start. I went down a long pricy road trying to keep my roto start. At the end I ended up changing a engine I got as roto start to pull start and I am super happy. Parts cost money. None of this stuff is cheap. I keep hearing awesome stuff about the LRP engines. I got a novarossi because that's just what I wanted. I don't think you could go wrong with either brand but once again just due to my own experience I would highly suggest a pull start. Also I hate RC planet because of poor customer service reps like Nicole lol
 
Once again I highly suggest pull start. I went down a long pricy road trying to keep my roto start. At the end I ended up changing a engine I got as roto start to pull start and I am super happy. Parts cost money. None of this stuff is cheap. I keep hearing awesome stuff about the LRP engines. I got a novarossi because that's just what I wanted. I don't think you could go wrong with either brand but once again just due to my own experience I would highly suggest a pull start. Also I hate RC planet because of poor customer service reps like Nicole lol

Could you explain to us how you broke 2 conrods using a rotostart/drill?

Cheers.
 
Could you explain to us how you broke 2 conrods using a rotostart/drill?

Cheers.
I'm not sure who your addressing but the writer of this post is trying to figure out how he broke two conrods and we're just to help. I never broke a conrod but I had a bad experience with roto starters. The savage is the only rc I had with a roto starter and after I screwed up the engine I had nothing but problems trying to put in another roto start engine. At first I got an engine with a input for the roto start shaft. I got the correct roto start shaft that didn't fit the savage roto starter. Then I used a drill that and when ever I tried to start the engine it will give me problems. Most likely due to tuning issues even a factory settings. I broke two of the correct shafts then I gave up on roto starters all together and just switched the engine to pull start which just ended up costing me more money. I feel like I could have just used the extra money to get a better engine. Once again I hate RC planet for having poor customer service reps like Nicole.
 
Get a pull start. Although you won't be able to start the engine with the body on unless you cut a hole on the body you won't have to worry about a broken roto start rod, batteries or anything else. You most likely got a roto starter with your savage but no telling with type of input the engine will have and you don't want to get your engine then have to search for a roto starter rod. I been through it. I got my novarossi engine to have to go buy a roto start rod that didn't fit my roto starter so I had to use a drill. Broke two rods. Finally got tired and just changed it to pull start. Cost me over 40 bucks. Get the pull start. As always never shop RC planet due to their terrible customer service reps. Mainly Nicole.

You mentioned here that you broke 2 rods as well. I was asking you. I'm aware what the OP has asked and have advised accordingly. That's all. ?
 
I think when you mentioned 'you broke 2 rods' you meant the shafts from the rotostart. Got it! ? I thought you meant conrods! ?

I found the little pins on the rotostart shafts can snap off if you ever drop them onto a hard surface. Over the years I've broken at least 4 that way. ?

However, I got pretty proficient at starting engines with shafts with only one pin.

Bizarrely, I rarely had problems with OWBs - so I guess that kinda made up for it.
 
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You mentioned here that you broke 2 rods as well. I was asking you. I'm aware what the OP has asked and have advised accordingly. That's all. ?
The whole time I was talking about roto start shafts. I think if you look at the post I referred to the roto start shafts as rods several times. Please I'm sorry if I made some sort of of grammer errors or used the wrong terminology but we must focus on helping this gentlemen stop breaking conrods and get him enjoying his beautiful Savage. Sorry his very beautiful Savage because we all know all Savages are all beautiful creatures sent to us from up above for doing something right in our lives. There not just 500 dollar toys. Also nice emoji dude. Cute. I had another question about the conrods. How are you stopping the engines? I heard of people stopping engines by forcing a screwdriver into the flywheel and stopping it that way. I tried it with my tuning screw driver and it just felt wrong. I don't know if your could harm a engine that way but I'm curious. As always I hate RC planet due to poor customer service reps like Nicole. I have get a signature with that on it. Lol
 
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Savages are cool as hell, that's for sure. This one here is nearly 17 years old.

They're well worth persevering with! ?
 
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But then you have to make sure that they're not alone.
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Here's it's 11 year old buddy, the Baja 5BSS.
Before you know it, you have a garage load of cars! ?
 
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Savages are cool as hell, that's for sure. This one here is nearly 17 years old.

They're well worth persevering with! ?
She is gorgeous. I like the aluminum shock towers, handle and extra shocks. I seems like you lined some of the chassis with rubber to absorb shock. Very smart especially for the gas tank. The tanks are hard to come by last I checked. You may want to get a tank guard. They come in just about every color and there about 13 bucks. Those tires are cool as hell. I love that engine heat sink it look like you have gas lines running directly into the engine. Sweet ride. I almost forgot that wheelie bar. It looks like one of the better ones. I put up a post of my little girl a week or two ago. You making want to go out and get more parts. Are those new servo throttle arms better then stock?. I never touched the wheels, shocks or throttle arms this is my kid. I know she very low but a mainly run her in parking lots. Savages are the best. Endless choices of what you can do. Once again gorgeous ride.
 

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That's one sweet low rider! It always amazes me how Savagers take different paths with their machines - no 2 the same. ??

I used proper throttle sliders on my linkages, as it really helped improve the braking and enabled me to gain better mechanical advantage, at a time when 13kg servos were considered state of the art! ?

Silicone fuel tubing was fitted to the top of the FLM chassis to prevent the STS manifold from resting on it - it really helps! I never see anyone do this, yet it's a simple and effective way of protecting both your TVP's and Manifolds. Win win.

The shocks are HPI upgraded threaded alloy items. At the time, it was standard to have 8 shocks, rather than 4 big bores. Or, you converted to the LST shocks, which are huge.

The wheelie bar was essential when I used to race the Savage on grass. I ran a short chassis and on 17/49 gearing (optimal for the track we raced) it used to flip on to it's lid with the Ported NS S .25, which ran countless gallons. Turned out to be a good little engine. Many Picco and Novarossi owners used to look at my mill and scratch their heads - it was a wolf in sheep's clothing! ?

We also ran a team 500 lap endurance race. 1 transponder per team. The Savage was my weapon of choice - if I was going to do hundreds of laps, I wanted something fun to drive. Turned out to be a good decision too, as it did the lion's share of laps with it's larger tank capacity and zero breakdowns.

The Savage with me now is lower, longer, STS.30 powered, with Fioroni Slider clutch and 23mm hubs all round on Proline wheels. If I raced it then as it is now, the Traxass brigade wouldn't have let me race in the MT class! ??

I try and keep a few things on my ride - stickers and things - that I had back in the day. Radio box, stickers, handle, some of the screws, a arms and front and rear transmission cases are the only original bits left.

My old Savage Central sticker on the tank disintegrated last week when I cleaned my rig. Gutted. ?
 

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