brakes touching CB

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sharkattack99

sharkattack99

Well-Known Member
Messages
926
Location
Moses Lake Wa
After installing my engine I notice that the CB is rubbing the brake pads just enough that is leaving a little residue on the CB is this OK? Its not binding up or preventingg movement but just thought I would ask to make sure. It an lrp 28. ofna cb
 
Could you post a picture bud?

You really don't want any rubbing. Are you running the dual disc brakes or dual red fibers? I seen alot of guys have problems with the disc version rubbing bells.
 
I've never experienced this problem myself but I would say that it is not "ok", and that you need to figure out a way to gain some clearance there. Like wildchild27 said, maybe a change in gearing would get you the clearance you need. I'm running 16/52 with red fiber disc brakes and the CB only clears the brake pads by a few mm with the motor all the way to the right in the motor mounts. If I tried to go much smaller with my spur gear I would have to move my motor to the left, to get the right gear mesh, and it would rub like yours. I would need to go bigger on the CB to compensate for the smaller spur gear so that my motor didn't have to move closer to the brakes to get the right gear mesh. Hope that makes sense, It's late, LOL.
 
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well thats the thing I'm running stock gearing is the lrp 28 bigger then the stock f4.6? its not rubbing on the teeth its rubbing on the outside diamiter of the CB hope this pic helps its not very good tried to clean it up a little.


but the disc (red arrow) is rubbing on Green arrow which is the flat spot on the Cb basically the outside of were the clutch shoes go hope i explained that right its late and just got off of work, lol. teeth size wont make that part smaller will it?

what if i put some spacers under the motor were the screws are and just move the motor to the right would that work?



DSCN1377.jpg
 
Check for a bent motor plate or tvp. That is typically what the problem is with the cb rubbing on the brakes. Also is the CB shimmed?
 
well there brand new so they arn't bent, haven't had the chance to run it yet. but just in case i checked there not bent.

and yes i shimmed the CB, had to other wise there would have been way to much play there.
 
Didnt know it was new....lol. From the pics it looks like the motor plate braces have had some grinding done to them. It could just be the pics, anyway, there are different ways to shim the CB. Where do you have those shims at and can you get a pic of the CB just so I can see the CB in relation to the flywheel. Thanks.
 
i don't beleive so its far enough back that the CB is covering all of the clutch shoes and a little bit more, so i would say i don't think so.


i did have shimes behind the CB but it showed to much of the clutch shoes for my liking (since its suppose to cover as much as possible) so most of my shims are in the front of the CB quite a few too.


yeah i had to gind it down so i could clear the dog bone, i bought the wrong ones and instead of wasting my money and not useing them just grinded them down just enought it would clear.

yeah i will get you that pic.

well it more like a rebuild, it was an x 4.6 then BL, now its nitro again, xl tvps and a new mill.
 
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heres the pics hope you can see what your looking for ok. took a couple in the hopes i got a good enough one.



2010-02-14114622.jpg



2010-02-14114549.jpg




in the second pic you can kind of see were its rubbing on the brake pad there.
 
Did you buy those TVP's new or used? My computer screen is probably too small or there is an optical illusion going on, but that right TVP looks crooked, same as the left TVP in the previous pics. What kind of engine plate do you have? If I remember right, and without a truck in front of me, the engine plate should sit flush with the outside of the TVP and it looks like its not. Its tough sitting here on a 10" netbook screen trying to troubleshoot, but the members here will get you through it.
 
there new i got them from amain hobbies it was a kit for the xl conversion kit. so there new, yeah it does look a little bit krooked but there not and the motor plate is an xl came with the kit.
 
i checked them and they are straight and the engine plate is flush so it just must be either the way i took the picture or the computer screen it looks krooked on my 23 in monitor to so its not you, :)

that ok hopfully i was hoping to break in the engine on tuesday, lol.
 
The amount of teeth on the CB won't affect the outer diameter of the CB but it will force you to adjust your motor's position in the engine plate to get proper gear mesh. If I'm not mistaken it looks like your motor is all the way to the driver side of the truck, pushing you CB closer to the brakes. Just to demonstrate the difference gearing can make, mine is all the way to the passenger side of the truck, using the same TVP's and engine plate as you. If your CB, or spur gear, had more teeth it would push your motor away from the brake pads. Make sense? What size spur gear are you running? Raising the motor mount and moving it to the right will have the same affect as using a larger spur, except it won't change your gearing. You probably only need a tiny amount of movement to get clearance. A spur that was only a tiny bit larger should work and you probably wouldn't notice a difference in the truck.
 
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its a 47t spur gear basically I'm running the stock savge x 4.6 rtr gearing in it, 47/17

yeah it does make sence so i either need a bigger CB or bigger spur gear? or both. so why won't the stock gearing work with this engine is it bigger smaller?
 
the clutchbell looks thicker then the hpi one. if it was me i would try sanding or fileing the clutch bell down abit to get the .5 mm gap that you need as your rub isnt that bad. by the way what flywheel are you running?
 
well its a OFNA CB, and I'm running the Fioroni 35mm Turbo Sliding Clutch Flywheel

yeah its just barly rubbing just enought that its leaving a little residue on the bell.
 
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I'm not really sure on that one, but i don't see how that would make my cb rub on the disc though, it might i mean it could i just don't see why?
 
well i looked the flywheel up and i saw This flywheel is designed to be compatible with Mugen or Thunder Tiger clutch bells. so that is probally your trouble
 
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According to this chart:

http://hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3076

There are gearing options that you could use that would be about the same but would move your engine away from the brakes. 17/47=2.76, and 18/49=2.72. You would not tell the difference in gearing, and both the CB and spur gear are larger which would move your motor to the right and give you more clearance. There are a couple other options there that are close, but would give you slightly higher or lower gearing depending on what you wanted. This would in effect be the same as the stock gearing even though both gears are bigger.
 
from what i understand you need to run the nova adjustable engine mount with that clutch se up so you can achieve proper clearance. Id say that this is your problem. I just ordered that clutch and the the mount myself as well as a deep clutch bell. hope this helps you.
 
well i just bash i don't race or anything, just jump off road kind of stuff, i wouldn't be against gear changing i just went with the savage stock gearing cause i didn't have a problem with it. I'm not really sure as to what gearing i need or want for bashing are the two you recommened good for that?

i was thinking about getting one of those motor mounts but cant find one anywhere, there out at the nova site.
 
What I'm saying is that if you go with 18/49 your overall gear ratio will be virtually the same as it is now. If your happy with your performance the way it is then going to 18/49 won't change a thing except it will move your motor over to the right which is what you need to solve your problem with the brakes. The overall gear ratio is what you need to look at, and sometimes there is more than one way to achieve the same gear ratio. You would be going from (2.76:1) to (2.72:1) on the gear ratio. Pretty much the same. Technically speaking your gearing would be a bit taller, which in general terms means more top speed, but the difference here is so miniscule that you would not even be able to tell. Simply changing the mount may not be an immediate fix either. There are other factors involved like the CB/Spur gear combo and the difference in engine plate mounting holes. If Nova designed that mount to work with your equipment then it would probably be fine, but sometimes when your running several aftermarket products in combination you run into problems that the original designers didn't anticipate. IMO the easiest, and probably cheapest fix would be to change your gears so you can adjust your motor to the right.
 
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