Batteries

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kevinmuff said:
I really hate batteries, honestly
so how often do you guys usually have to change the 4 AA batteries in the truck?
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after replacing just one set, most people get frustrated, and buy the hump packs, as JT mentioned above...
 
kevinmuff said:
nice, that looks like what imma get then! thanks guys!
also, what about the batteries in the remote? how often do you change those?
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Again I have some rechargeables that use strictly for the transmitter, I usually just charge it once a week during the season it gets used most.
 
same here...bought some nice NiMH AA's...charge them before I go out, and ta daaa....no problems...
 
A reciever hump pack was probably the first great purchase I made the savage box is such a pain to get into constantly changeing the batteries was a royal pain. I run duracells in my transmitter. change when they get low but rechargebles would be nice. Reciever pack is a MUST though IMHO !!!
 
do they need to be 1600 mAh?
or can they be 1500 and lower?
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The point is a 1600mah hump pack that Jt showed is the biggest you can get, get what you want. Want to save a few bucks this link is from our home town. This guy runs an rc an group and goes Nationals every yr. He builds packs and is extremely trusted now you have 2 links.


$16.45

Team Helotes 1400mah hump pack
 
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Here's some things to think about also, to make things easier yet get your self a on/off switch that has a charge lead on it, similar to this and if you have the X style radio box you have the place to mount the charge lead. If you don't have the X style radio box might want to consider one of these. One last option would be one of the 2 switches shown on the top of this page. I have used both of them with great success.
 
well, today i bought a hump pack today, i think it will work very well.
what do you guys think? is it over-priced? (its Canadian)
and, will it work??
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Picture002-2.jpg
 
I run that same battery in one of my trucks, did you get a charger to go with it? (For comparison I think I paid 24USD for mine)
 
kevinmuff said:
false peaking? whats that mean?

oh, and also, that thing is an outrageous price for me
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Chargers will cost around 30-40 bucks for a decent one. Don't go by their price you can get it 20 bucks cheaper on other sites, I'll try to find one. False peaking is when the charger says the battery is charged when it's not. So you have sluggish servos and low battery life because it's only getting a 10% charge.
 
For some reason I can't find the Prophet Plus on A-Main or Tower. There are plenty of good chargers out there. Ask around and see what one is the best for you.
 
How do you charge the hump pack with the prophet? It doesn't have the same connectors? The reason I ask is b.c. I have a charger just like it and would like to buy a hump pack. I really don't wanna have to buy another charger.
 
You can buy an adaptor like I did, don't have a pic but I can get a pic posted of it. It adapts from the regular connector to the futaba style connector....its about 3 inches long
 
Jt said:
Here's some things to think about also, to make things easier yet get your self a on/off switch that has a charge lead on it, similar to this and if you have the X style radio box you have the place to mount the charge lead. If you don't have the X style radio box might want to consider one of these. One last option would be one of the 2 switches shown on the top of this page. I have used both of them with great success.
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I defintly will be picking up a hump pack. I really like the OEM style of the parts mentioned above. :mug:
 
Jt said:
Here's some things to think about also, to make things easier yet get your self a on/off switch that has a charge lead on it, similar to this and if you have the X style radio box you have the place to mount the charge lead. If you don't have the X style radio box might want to consider one of these. One last option would be one of the 2 switches shown on the top of this page. I have used both of them with great success.
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Hey, JT. Have you heard of anyone modding a battery pak to a higher voltage? (the extra cell). Alkaline's are 1.5 volts each & Rechargable Nmh batteries are 1.2 volts. Recievers are rated to commonly draw 4.5 to 6.0 volts in genneral. So if we do the math and ad up the voltages for the alkalines, we have a 4 cell sinario = 6 volts. ( 4x1.5=6) For the NMH recharchables, we have a 5 cell sinnario = 6 volts. (5x1.2=6) As you can see, if You ad in an extra cell to either of these examples, you will have effectively increased your voltage by one cell. So an alkaline pack that can carry 5 cells is now rated at 7.5 volts instead of 6. A NMH pack that can carry 6 cells is now rated at 7.2 volts. As you know, 4 & 5 cellpacks take less room for the tight battery compartments on the Savage ss and earlier. Most electronic devices in general, have the abbillity to take up to an aditional 20% more voltage than thier rated for without harming the curcuitry of the device. Now, with that said, I feel confident that the 7.2 volt NMH 6 pack sinnario is candidate for this application. Building a AA 6 pack is easy. Finding a save and dry place to mount it on a Savage is your expertize. With 7.2 volts on you truck, you'll have that extra voltage to handle 3 servo's alot more effectively, not to mention, very responsive steering control. You'll also be sporting a battery pack that can be recharged well over 3000 ma.(depending on the batteries you choose) I've peak charged 5 cell packs up in the 7.8 to 8.4 range and had absolutely no issues arize from that extra voltage. I feel this mod will provide much longer run time between recharges and extend that fresh battery feel and response you get with brand new bateries. The only down side is some addition weight. I haven't measured the difference between the 5 cell you can buy vs a AA 6 pack. Never the less, if it can be done, it's well worth it. SIDE NOTE: Peak charging the 5 cell is one thing. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT YOU PEAK CHARGE THE 7.2 6CELL PACK. PEAK CHARGING A 7.2 BATTERY PACK CAN DRAMATICALLY EXCEED THE DESIRED VOLTAGE BY UP TO 3.5 VOLTS, OR MORE. YOU don't WANT 10+ VOLTS GOING TO YOUR RX , THIS MOD ALREADY PROVIDES THE DESIRED OVERKILL VOLTAGE SUGGESTED, BY IT'S OWN DESIGN. TO KEEP YOUR RECIEVER'S LIFE INTACT, IT IS CRUCIAL THAT YOU FOLLOW THESE RECOMMENDATIONS. BE SAFE AND HAPPY, RATHER THAN SORRY AND PISSED! ALTHOUGH I CAN NOT TAKE RESPONSIBILLITY FOR THIS MOD IN ANYWAY OR FORM , I CAN SUGGEST THAT 7.5 VOLTS BE THE MAXIMUM BATTERY VOLTAGE FOR THIS MOD. MANUFACTURES DO HAVE THERE OWN SPECIFICATIONS, BUT FOR YOUR OWN INFORMATION, I'M USING A JR RS310 RX WITH IT'S ASCOCIATED TX SYSTEM. I ALSO DO NOT RECOMMEND THE USE OF A 5 CELL AA ALKALINE PACK FOR THIS APPLICATION DUE TO THE POSIBILLITY THAT THESE FRESH BATTERIES CAN WELL EXCEED THE MAXIMUM SUGGESTED VOLTAGE OF 7.5 VOLTS, I"VE STATED. SO HOW ABOUT IT, JT. WANT TA GIVE IT A SHOT? REPLIES WELCOMED.
 
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Seen Li-Po packs used with greater voltage--just have to make sure the receiver, fail safe, switches, battery indicators, and servos can handle the extra voltage.
 
Yea, I should check up on the Li-Po posibllity. Li-Po packs come in some pretty odd shapes and sizes. They have to be able to take the pounding a MT creates for the battery itself. For the most part, the NMH is way more cost effective, more stable in harsh conditions, safer to charge, and has a high capacity for amperage. Imagine a 3600 ma. battery for your RX. thats about 2.5 times longer runtime with the extra headroom of voltage for servos and signal stregth. All it needs is a storage compartment for safe and trouble-free opperation.
 
I'm using:
GO
Battery charger
Class 2
Cat no-23-2318
For use with NI-CD 7.2V Battery Pack
Input: 120AC 60Hz 6.5W
Output: 7.2DC 400mA
(says charge for 4-5 hours, but thats for the batteries its normally used for)
I'm using a converter change the end connection to fit to my hump pack
 
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