About time!!!

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Just ran the Flux Hp for over 30 mins out front of my house and nothing broke. Finally got this thing right. Just ordered some SMC 2S 9000 mah packs seeing SPC is closed down.
 
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Will not be disappointed with smc! Thats what I went with and love them i have two 7200mah 3s 90c couldn't be happier.
Yeah I got 2 sets of 3S and. And a Set of 2S. I like the 2S around the house. It's a little more controllable. And these look like a pretty good fit for the battery trays.
 

olds97_lss

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Yep. The SMC 9000mah 2S packs fit just fine in the flux saddle trays. I just ran mine for the longest run so far this weekend. I'm not getting as much run time out of them as I do in my ERBE though. I guess it has less weight to move around. I was averaging 25 minutes per set of packs running 21/44 gearing with traxxas 3.8 chevron tires. I only mention the tires as they play a pretty big role in run time with power needed and whatnot.

I ran through 3 sets of packs. The oldest/most used set got 22 minutes. Then I came home, charged them back up while I reloaded my shocks with lighter oil and went out again to run them and a newer set of packs. The newer set got 27 minutes. The older set got 23 minutes the second time I think. Different bashing area each time.

I also have a set of SMC's extreme 9500mah 2S packs, but I haven't tried those yet in this rig. I only used them once in my ERBE just to see how they did. They carry more punch to the end of the cycle, but only added a couple minutes of run time.

My flux has the old esc in it, the rebadged mamba monster that isn't waterproof. The previous owner sprayed it down internally with a coating though, so guessing it's water resistant. Will figure that out one day I'm sure.
 
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These 2S SMC 9000s are awesome. Unfortunately broke something again in the rear diff. This thing is such a bitch to work on. I dread when it breaks. Any recommendations on an easy to work on brushless RTR. I ran my 1/5th scale too. Had fun though.
 
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Not sure but if I had to guess I'd say either diff is shredded or the axle pins. Rear tires spin like there totally free. This is the only reason not a big fan of 4wd more to break lol!!!!
 

NightFlier X4.6

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Knock on wood ive ran nothing but 2 smc 3s 7200 90c batteries and have blew a diff but in all honesty it don't spend much time in the air due to lack of my land on wheels ability lol
 
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Looks like my diff screws that hold it together backed out and caused it to break. Are u using grease or diff oil in the diff and if oil what weight. Looking at the flux Hp manual and it shows grease!!!!
 

Jam Racing 1

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Some use grease some use oils, I prefer heavy grease in mine, I use sticky red chassis grease in all my trucks and it always works well for most bashing I do....
Don't forget to Blue locktite the screws holding the ring gear on the diff housing, otherwise as you found out they can and will back out causing failures....
 
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That is definitely what happen. Are the orings in the drive cups on the diff between the dog bones necessary??? I've never ran them but noticed it reading the fiche.
 

Jam Racing 1

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Yes I use the O Rings in the drive cups also, they do help keep the bones centered and keep them from clattering, you can use fuel tubing also, just cut small pieces and insert before installing the bones....
 

olds97_lss

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That is definitely what happen. Are the orings in the drive cups on the diff between the dog bones necessary??? I've never ran them but noticed it reading the fiche.
I had mine hang up on me this weekend just because of that. I run the super HD bones/cups on my flux. I need to find some o-rings to jam in there on the diff side I think, to keep them in the wheel cups. May need them on both ends, not sure.

I run 50k oil in my diffs. Pain to clean out, but gives a nice posi-traction which helps when bashing in rough terrain. Some power always reaches the ground even if a tire is in the air.
 
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Yes I use the O Rings in the drive cups also, they do help keep the bones centered and keep them from clattering, you can use fuel tubing also, just cut small pieces and insert before installing the bones....
Definitely makes sense and explains why when the suspension is fully expanded the drive shafts look like there almost out of the cups on the wheel side.
 
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