5.9 GTXL-6 Remote plug

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fuelfather

Active Member
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59
Is anyone else tired of having to remove the body every time you have to start your 5.9 GTXL-6?

I have been slowly working out the tune on this thing, and running without the body on, as you cannot reach the glow plug with the body on. The back of the roof/body roll cage are exceed over the top of the cylinder and make it impossible to attach the igniter. Look at the second photo.

I found a company that makes a remote igniter adapter, but I’m trying to figure out the best place to mount it.

The adapter I have found is the M056 from Sullivan Products. It comes with a 90 degree mounting plate, but I cannot decide where best to mount the remote connector. I know if I mount it to the chassis, I will have to either drill some small holes, and/or make a small backplate, which is what I will probably do since I probably won’t be able to find a place to mount it with all four mounting holes.

Any insight from you other Nitro heads?

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I have no experience with GTXL body, but I can see the immediate issues you'd have with that body.

Personally, I tend to start and tune my Savage on the day minus the body anyway. I put the body back on after it's been warmed.

Being able to re-fuel easily with the body on is important in my opinion for splash & dash!

Remote/Extended glow connection should make it easier for you if trimming the body isn't an option. Let us know how you get on!
 
Like Horatio says as long as it has agood tune once warmed up it should stay running all the time it has fuel of course!
Does the nitro pre painted b/shell not already have cut out around the cooling head for excess then?
 
This body is a replacement for 160103 - Savage XL Flux V2 GTXL-6
It comes pre-painted and trimmed, but without the engine hole cut out so you can choose to use this body for Nitro or Flux. Just cut the engine hole out to use with Nitro.
 
This one does have a cutout, but it is the crew cab body with mock roll bar. Even without the roll bar, you would have to cut the roofline at the back of the cab on the roll of the roof, then remove or cut the bar to be able to get access. I’ll get an overhead picture later to post.
 
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This is what I’m trying to avoid having to do, as I don’t have an igniter with that long of a connector.
 

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