id say scrap the big bores lol.. heard they arent what all the raves about.. the stock double shock set up seems better i think .. but they do make aluminum caps for the big bores ...
they still make them .. go for about 360.00 from hobby shops . not sure when it came out .http://www.rcplanet.com/Kyosho_Madforce_Kruiser_1_8_4WD_Nitro_Monster_Truc_p/kyo31227s-b.htm
they have internal one way bearings... external one way bearings .. different size hexs the pull starts go on .. different bolt paterns ect ... some might adapt up but not sure witch ones fit...maybe someone thats had the same engines will chime in ...
I'm not sure on what pullstarts will adapt with other mills... but if your cord is what broke and you haven't unwound the spring coil inside.. you can use blind cord or kite cord to replace it .. it holds up great ..
no problem.. the idle is just a starting point to your stalling issue when you let off .. an easy way to adjust it is to have the truck off the ground and turn the throtle /break trim on the remote so it opens the carb till it starts then turn the trim back to a nice idle then set the idle screw...
it will need tuned every time you take it out ... nothing drastically just fine tuning depending on the temps outside.. just learn to listen to the engine and know what the sounds its making is telling you then its easy .. high revs after letting off = to lean turn hsn out slightly.. bogging at...
we will get you taken care of,,,, the idle screw is small black one twords the bottom of the carb.. the high speed needle is the one the fuel line goes into.. the low speed needle is the one thats on the slide on the carb.. hope this helps .. bogging typically is from being to ritch.. cutting...
might have spun the spur gear and the pad on the back might be slipping now .. check the spring in front of the spur gear n tighten it down ... if it is tight it might need a better tune on it .. you said it bogs down after adjusting the idle... you sure it was the idle screw? not the high speed...