http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/savage21-25.html
Hardened steel spur and clutch bell, much better than the plastic gear and durable to boot, you need the set because the stock bell will not handle the steel spur...
The part circled is the cylinder sleeve of the engine, either way whatever that piece is from you do need to completely disassemble that engine and find out why it sticks and possibly where that piece of aluminum came from, I do not see any brass color on it so I doubt it is from the sleeve...
Looks to be some sort of early HPI engine (there were several early iterations), as for your video is there a question there somewhere? it seems to stick and should be torn down and at least inspected for damage is the cooling head moving around? it looks loose in your video, as for that piece...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-4-6-SAVAGE-X-F4-6-CRANK-SHAFT-ENGINE-MOTOR-28-1493-1433/113570635964?epid=22012055215&hash=item1a715660bc:g:pg4AAOSw~FJZFiDQ??USPSFirstClass!95422!US!-1:rk:1??1&frcectupt=true
see that pin and spring in the 2nd pic in the ad? see the crankpin where the big end of...
I am not positive if the spur comes with a new slipper pad, if it does not come with a new one you will need to buy one, it sticks to the back of the spur and cant usually be removed and reused.....
Servo speed is measured at 0 to 60 degrees of movement, do not worry too much about it, just buy something with the torque you are looking for and use it.....
https://www.servocity.com/servo-power-speed
There is no way on earth I would pay $120.00 plus for a servo, for bashing all you need is a decent servo with at least 200 oz in torque and metal gears...
now if I were racing 1/8 scale buggy or onroad I could see using the best equipment, but for general bashing and messing about spending all...
that is why they put an edit feature on things like bookmarks :lmao:
and E Bay is usually cheaper than amazon for most all things, I use both searches then buy the cheapest with free shipping........
You can also find the same servo on E Bay for a few bux less....
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l2632.R2.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.XPower+HD+servos.TRS0&_nkw=power+hd+servos&_sacat=2562
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tenergy-5-Cell-6V-6-Volt-1600mAh-NiMH-Hump-Receiver-Battery-Pack-w-Charger/391592075959?hash=item5b2cb4e2b7:g:3PcAAOSw-CpX~S7Q:sc:USPSFirstClass!95422!US!-1:rk:4:pf:0
I have been using that exact pack for a long time and all I can say is it works well....
There are...
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10005-Tacky-Grease/dp/B000ARPVO8/ref=asc_df_B000ARPVO8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312151579877&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17893837698967310847&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032320&hvtargid=pla-433746407250&psc=1
I know a...
You can find it at most auto parts stores, it sticks well to the parts, not sure if it is comparable to 50 weight silicone oil. it is pretty heavy I guess considering I packed the diff cavity full then put on the ring gear....
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/nitro-engine-factory-settings.11154/
Find your engine on the list and reset needles, be aware if you do you are going to be very rich and will have to tune to your conditions
Take out the screw completely and clean the threads then apply a drop of blue locktite to the threads and reinstall, that should keep it from loosening due to vibration, in fact I would remove and do the same for any screw that threads into metal, cheep insurance for your rig not to dismantle...