Whenever I do it I always take the engine back to factory settings and run a tank through it on the ground bumping the throttle, next tank I start tuning slowly I do it this way to be on the safe side.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-LRP-ZR-32-Spec-2-Pull-Start-Engine-Ofna-Ultra-LX2-GT-V2-Pro-Durango-/191129622978?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c803699c2
There you go
This one has free shipping...
I finally put the front end of my 5.9 back together now just got to hook up the steering that will probably take a month now that deer season is upon us.
http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/sealing-a-nitro-engine-for-air-leaks.72487/
Copied from another forum looks like you could use green slime on the screw.
Jam is correct I have the older .25 also they did come with the plastic diff cups so please make sure if you are looking for the HPI Aluminum diff cups search for some of the new models like the 5.9. I currently have the Maximizer aluminium cups in my .25 SS my 5.9 has the stock HPI aluminum cups.
After reading through this it looks like you have checked the normal stuff if you lock the slipper all the way down per Jam's suggestion (which is how I run all my trucks as I don't jump them a lot anymore), I would look to make sure the actual flywheel is tight on the shaft of the engine. The...