I'm not gonna be much help on the conversion part, but as far as bodies go. I'm runnin the IRC 6mm front & 1" rear ext TVPs and I find that short course bodies fit ext chassis savages the best. Pro-line makes quite a few good options.
If you can find them, use the Ofna P46 o-rings for the outdrive cups in the diff along with 500k or 1m diff oil to coat the o-rings when you install them. That will stop them from leaking.
And you'll still need to get a auto cut-out switch if you go the LiPo route. You don't want the voltage to drop past 3.4 or the cells with start to be compromised . I've seen it happen before. A guy I used to bash with set his LVC wrong and over discharged the batteries when he was runnin is...
Also, your HSN ultimately determines the final tune, including LSN. That's why they always say to tune your HSN first then LSN. Another thing to consider is your glow plug? How old or how fuel has been ran on it? If thevplug is startin to die, it won't completely ignite the fuel.
Can LiFePo4 batteries puff and catch fire/burst into flames from being over discharged? I've never looked into or researched that type of battery before.
Yes, 2s is 2 cells, but a fully charged LiPo is actually 8.2 or 8.4 volts. Can't remember. Some Rx can operate at a higher voltage, like Spektrum. Just check the specs on the radio gear you want to use. Also, if you do decide to use a LiPo, you'll want to get some sort of inline voltage cut-off...
I just looked at the ones I have and some say wt and some say cst. I've read a few articles yrs ago explaining all the differences and what not, both diff and shock oil. I think once you get to a certain thickness it changes fron one to other. I think I run 10k rear 30k front in my nitro. Can't...
I've been refilling the diffs in the Flux XS cuz all the oil leaked out from when I started refilling them yrs ago. Never replaced the o-rings with new ones, opps. And getting the truck back together. Just have to wait for the new motor for my son's Losi strike so I can get my ESC back for the XS.
Haven't tried the ceramic ones. They weren't even an option when I used to regularly run my truck 10 yrs ago. Looks like guinness and lokky got you covered on the slipper pads. I really don't care what I use, I run it locked down tight with double nuts. Just make sure to be off throttle when...
Have you ran it yet? Curious to see if they would work in that position/ angle? I think they would have to be extended out some. I put some rubber airplane wheels on the wing of mine to keep from draggin the wing on the pavement.
Looks like your off to a good start. May be able to possibly find someone selling a roller chassis for cheap too for parts or for spares. To answer a few of you ???s from the 1st post, +1 on the Fioroni sliding clutch. I'm using the dual sliding and it grabs hard, just have to use a deep CB...
Glad you got it figured out. I've never really had to tap on it to take it out. Just loosen the the screw and give it a twist usually sets it free too. And while your at it, seal that puppy up before you install and break it in.
Thanks Elwood. Someone posted them in another thread too that I seen recently and checked them out. Not sure which ones to get yet. But not lookjn to buy as of this moment. Gotta get the flux xs back together. And also the blitz ese back together so I can sell it.
You can buy cases (4 gallons) of Byron's fuel from AMainHobbies.com and have them shipped. For me to buy case of 30% Gen2 race fuel and have it shipped from CA to FL is $216. $180 for the fuel & $37 for haz mat shipping charge. Best fuel I have ever ran.
You can change % fuel after you break...
If it's a nitro 2 or 3 speed, don't put anything inside the case. No lubricant or it will interfer with the shift clutches. Now if it's a flux, I can't comment cuz I don't have one, but I don't think any lubricant is used in that either unless you have a center differential, which would need...