Need all sorts of help

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Pretty sure this is the OWB for the stock engine:
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/1430

https://www.amazon.com/HPI-Racing-One-Way-Bearing-Pullstart/dp/B000BLJ2PW

If you got a 6x12 bearing, then odds are, your going to have to hammer the old one out and put in the new one... that should be fun. I've never tried that.

What do you mean by hammering it out? When I had the engine off for cleaning it slid off no problem.

Or are you saying now that it is slipping it'll be hard to get off
 
What do you mean by hammering it out? When I had the engine off for cleaning it slid off no problem.

Or are you saying now that it is slipping it'll be hard to get off
Well there are 2 different size one way bearings that were offered with savage roto starts a 12mm and 14mm hex. What he is saying if you need the 14mm version then you can hammer(press) out the actual bearing from the hex part and press in the new bearing from new part.
 
Well there are 2 different size one way bearings that were offered with savage roto starts a 12mm and 14mm hex. What he is saying if you need the 14mm version then you can hammer(press) out the actual bearing from the hex part and press in the new bearing from new part.
Okay I understand now. That makes sense. Thank you!
 
The way you mentioned the OWB dimensions you purchased, it looked like dimensions for just the OWB without the hex case that it goes into. Some people do buy those bearings, then press the old one out of the hex and press in new one. It's way more cost effective if you have the ability to do it and the hex itself isn't damaged. Many people in the past busted the hex itself using roto starts, so in that case, you have to buy the whole owb assembled which costs a lot more.
 
The way you mentioned the OWB dimensions you purchased, it looked like dimensions for just the OWB without the hex case that it goes into. Some people do buy those bearings, then press the old one out of the hex and press in new one. It's way more cost effective if you have the ability to do it and the hex itself isn't damaged. Many people in the past busted the hex itself using roto starts, so in that case, you have to buy the whole owb assembled which costs a lot more.
Oh no this should be the bearing and nut. I meant 6mm as in the inside diameter for the shaft. It was like 9 bucks I think
 
Alright so I finally got it to start. Since I took it all apart I am doing a shortened break in. The first tank I'll just let it sit here.

Its getting pretty late so I'll have to do the other tanks tomorrow or some time. The second tank I was planning on driving in circles at half throttle and the third tank I'll do a little bit of wide open. After that I'll start messing with the tuning and such

I'm at a slight disadvantage because the receiver that came with it doesn't have a throttle trim. So the only way I can get it to throttle down at idle is the throttle screw. I have a new controller on the way but it'll be another two weeks or so.

Any recommendations or tips would be great.
 
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/list-of-useful-nitro-engine-threads.13941/

as for the throttle trim it is not accessed on the receiver it is on the transmitter, either a dial or a button on top or side of the transmitter unit... Please read through the threads I linked, they will help you understand the procedures for tuning and setting idle and such..... Not sure which TX you have, maybe post a clear close up pic of your unit so we may be able to help you id the trim....
 
Alright quick update. I can now reliably start the motor and run it. I let it idle for awhile and then started doing some runs starting off slow and building up to WOT.

After that I started tuning it but I think I went a little too far lean on the high speed because it started not idling and shutting off so next time I run it I'll dial it back some and creep back up.

When I did the last run on it I noticed a metallic sound when it was turning over. Is this normal or should there be no metallic sounds at all?

Other than that things are going really well. This truck really rips. Once I get my new wheels and I have more traction it'll be much better
 
Not sure about the metallic sound. I don't notice any with my engines, but I also don't have a roto-start or HPI engine. If I remember right, some HPI engines have a weird spring catch inside the engine that keys into a notch on the plate of the starter shaft. I suppose you could hear that click or something, then again, when turning over I wouldn't expect it to click, just once it was running. Check your clutch bearings. See if you have any wiggle there. Could just be your not shimmed quite right and the flywheel is grazing the back edge of the clutch bell. Or, your flywheel is touching your brake disks.
 
Not sure about the metallic sound. I don't notice any with my engines, but I also don't have a roto-start or HPI engine. If I remember right, some HPI engines have a weird spring catch inside the engine that keys into a notch on the plate of the starter shaft. I suppose you could hear that click or something, then again, when turning over I wouldn't expect it to click, just once it was running. Check your clutch bearings. See if you have any wiggle there. Could just be your not shimmed quite right and the flywheel is grazing the back edge of the clutch bell. Or, your flywheel is touching your brake disks.

There is a pin in there, but it should only click if it's spun the wrong way, where the spring will snap the pin into the groove when it rotates around, which can't happen. Otherwise it should have constant pressure on it keeping it pushed against the groove right?

As far as shimming that's entirely possible because I didn't shim it at all lol. I didn't know I was supposed to. Next time I mess with it I'll check. The bell still spins freely and everything. I haven't checked the brakes either but it sounds as though it's coming from the engine. I suppose I won't really worry about it until it stops working xD
 
Alright found out what the metallic noise was. I put that metal spur gear on there, and as I was running it and it was getting more power it was either shearing off the screws holding the slipper plate and the actual gear itself together, or they were slowly backing out.

Well I got it out to run it some more and started hitting third gear and then shortly after stopped getting power because she broke. But that's alright. I'll just slap the plastic gear on there till it's no good any more and switch back to the metal one after I fix it.

Still not fully tuned, but I am slowly but surely getting there20180712_183042.jpg
 
Okay so its been a couple minutes since I've had any real news to post but I got some replacement screws for the spur gear so ill be putting that back together next time I am home.
My new controller came in the mail so I need to switch out the receiver. I'm assuming you have to remove the battery box to be able to do that though? I also got new tires in the mail so I glued them up the other day. I still need to go back through and add a couple dabs where they need it but ill be putting those on after its properly tuned.

I also found a 50cc fuel tank that looks very similar to the stock one, just smaller. so I am going to find an open spot on the truck somewhere and mount that and daisy chain the two tanks so I have a little more run time. But that's a whole project in its own. ive seen a few threads of people doing the same thing so ill have to check those out when it comes time for it.

As far as switching to aluminum parts, is there anything that wouldn't be improved by switching to aluminum? for example, I found some aluminum clutch shoes. would these be an improvement on the plastic ones I currently have? or is it mostly a gimmick?

anyway so I'm going to start stocking up on metal parts (orange if possible) so that eventually I can change everything out on it to make it more durable.

as for tuning, in the video about tuning from hpi they would go with the high speed and lean it until it got to the point where it shut off. then go back a quarter turn and get it right at the edge from there. at least that's how I understood it. Is that a good way to do it or is there an easier way. I have read through the tuning thread several times but don't know if I'm getting it right. I have only leaned my high speed and its definitely performing way better than factory obviously, I just don't know where my stopping point should be. I don't have a temp gun or anything so whats an easy way to tell that I'm close to my optimum settings?
 
Alloy clutch shoes are good. 6061 for good bite, 7075 for long life, either is an improvement over composite as far as durability and grip is concerned.

Most of the stuff on the savage you want to stick with stock as it holds up the best. However, I have found that I like the integy rear axle carriers as it removes the rear turnbuckles. One less thing to have slop. Otherwise, I keep mine pretty stock.

Not sure what your running for shocks or a pipe and header. I run a 4 shock setup with associated 40w and replaced the long springs with "white" springs to stiffen it up a bit. I also use the high flow header and an LST2 pipe. Works well with my LRP engines. The HPI polished pipe would be an improvement over the stock composite pipe.

Already mentioned previously the throttle linkage upgrade.

To replace the receiver, you take the lid off the battery box, then you can get at it. Not too much trouble. I put my receivers in a balloon and ziptie the end around the wires to help keep water out.
 
The balloon is a good idea. I'll make sure I do that. As far as that goes though (I'm at work so I'm going off memory) so the receiver that's in the truck now is the stock one. It has a wire coming from it that goes down to the bottom of the battery box and through it. Is this the antenna then? And if it is would it just unplug from the receiver? I could have sworn it was hardwired.

But that would make sense I guess since the new receiver didn't come with an antenna. I'll be messing with it this evening when I get home. I also got a smaller 2000 mAh battery to go in place of the 4aa holder so I'll be putting that in as well.


It has the stock 8 shock setup. They aren't very stout so I was planning on upgrading eventually just not right now since those are like 75 bucks or so. For header and pipe those are both stock as well. They definitely need replaced sooner rather than later since the end of the pipe the butts up against the header has been melted some.

I got the alloy clutch shoes. But I won't put them on till the current ones give out
 
Alloy clutch shoes are good. 6061 for good bite, 7075 for long life, either is an improvement over composite as far as durability and grip is concerned.

Most of the stuff on the savage you want to stick with stock as it holds up the best. However, I have found that I like the integy rear axle carriers as it removes the rear turnbuckles. One less thing to have slop. Otherwise, I keep mine pretty stock.

Not sure what your running for shocks or a pipe and header. I run a 4 shock setup with associated 40w and replaced the long springs with "white" springs to stiffen it up a bit. I also use the high flow header and an LST2 pipe. Works well with my LRP engines. The HPI polished pipe would be an improvement over the stock composite pipe.

Already mentioned previously the throttle linkage upgrade.

To replace the receiver, you take the lid off the battery box, then you can get at it. Not too much trouble. I put my receivers in a balloon and ziptie the end around the wires to help keep water out.
Hey for that throttle linkage, is there a kit out there with everything I need in it?
 
Hey for that throttle linkage, is there a kit out there with everything I need in it?
There used to be when OFNA was around. Now you kind of have to piece it together.

You need:
2 sliders
4 collars
one spring
one long z-bend, can probably use your current brake wire
one long threaded end
one ball end and ball stud or swivel ball/stand off

This gets you the collars, sliders and spring:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DYN2568-Dynamite-RC-Pro-Tune-Throttle-Brake-Linkage-Set/401103429623

Ball end I think I used for the throttle wire end pivot:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Swivel-Ball-Links-2mm-w-Hardware-Du-Bro-RC-Airplane-DUB368/401493390902

I normally just pick up the threaded end rods at my LHS. They are a pain to search for online.

EDIT:
In other news... while typing that and copy/pasting from another post I made, my keyboard died. I've used microsoft natural elite keyboards for 20 years. The one that just died was probably 15+ years old. I lost a line of keys as I was typing. Even tried tearing it apart, cleaning it and fixing it.

Luckily, I bought a backup 10 years ago and had it in the closet. New keyboard feels really weird. It's also very clean. lol!
 
There used to be when OFNA was around. Now you kind of have to piece it together.

You need:
2 sliders
4 collars
one spring
one long z-bend, can probably use your current brake wire
one long threaded end
one ball end and ball stud or swivel ball/stand off

This gets you the collars, sliders and spring:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DYN2568-Dynamite-RC-Pro-Tune-Throttle-Brake-Linkage-Set/401103429623

Ball end I think I used for the throttle wire end pivot:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Swivel-Ball-Links-2mm-w-Hardware-Du-Bro-RC-Airplane-DUB368/401493390902

I normally just pick up the threaded end rods at my LHS. They are a pain to search for online.

EDIT:
In other news... while typing that and copy/pasting from another post I made, my keyboard died. I've used microsoft natural elite keyboards for 20 years. The one that just died was probably 15+ years old. I lost a line of keys as I was typing. Even tried tearing it apart, cleaning it and fixing it.

Luckily, I bought a backup 10 years ago and had it in the closet. New keyboard feels really weird. It's also very clean. lol!
I'll be honest here that edit was a curve ball lol. Who just buys an extra keyboard because who know, maybe I'll need it in twenty years lol
 
I have had lots of stuff stowed away so I dug around in my stash and built mine, Ho Bao/Hong Nor (formally OFNA) and Losi among others also offer some of the linkages, sliders and assorted bits you will need to do much the same thing....

DSCN6938.JPG
 
I'll be honest here that edit was a curve ball lol. Who just buys an extra keyboard because who know, maybe I'll need it in twenty years lol
I had a cat chew the cord on one 15 years or so ago, so I got one, then got a backup around the same time because using a normal keyboard for work for a week while I waited for it to deliver about killed me. Not the "ergonomics" of it, just the keys per minute and typo mistakes. lol
 
So bought hose two things you suggested olds, and I actually found an oem set of brake and throttle rods on ebay
s-l1600.jpg


so between those three I should be able to get a good setup going. I should have all the parts by Thursday so I might be able to do some running this weekend. I switched over to that flysky TX/RX and the Rx is much smaller so I gained a bunch of free space inside the battery box which is nice and I also have that rechargeable battery in there now so no more blowing through double As.

I'm pretty sure the linkages are the last things I need to actually be able to reliably run it. or I cant think of anything else at least. ill find out this coming weekend I guess
 

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