Hpi savage xs- Clicking diff

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ozzybasher

Active Member
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58
Going on fellas


This might of some use to some guys out there who own a savage xs flux, clicking diff, locking up wheels this is most likely gonna be the cause.

This is the 2nd bevel gear I have changed. Set aside 30mins- 1hr to change.

Takes a fair bashing to break the teeth off the bevel gear, the truck is now good to go again.






 
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Yes thanks for sharing. I haven't ever really messed with diffs (still pretty new to the hobby) and thought as noisy as mine were I needed to look at them soon, but that video showed me unless it pops really loud, the XS diffs are just generally noisy. Saved me a lot of trouble, so thanks.
 
No worries fellas that vid might be of some use, it's a staunch rad little truck
 
Yeah, this video was of good use. Front Diff looks easy to get to. Are the other diffs as easy to get to? I was just worried because this truck doesn't look too easy to work on. With that being said, I haven't done much of anything to it but run a few packs through it.
 
Yeah, this video was of good use. Front Diff looks easy to get to. Are the other diffs as easy to get to? I was just worried because this truck doesn't look too easy to work on. With that being said, I haven't done much of anything to it but run a few packs through it.
The front and rear diffs are identical. I'll agree this truck is not the easiest to work on but it sure is fun once everything comes together.
 
To get the diffs out takes 5 mins, it's not a hard truck to work on it's just compact in size. Use a drill also makes undoing screws heaps quicker


I have to pull gearbox out soon have a looksy inside
 
2nd slipper clutch let go other week not to bad really over 12months both times due to getting truck way too wet been running mint for few bashes again

Avoid water at all costs they can't handle it aye



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One problem I'm having is that I've just rebuilt the rear diff & when I put it back together, it didn't feel smooth. The actual diff-action of the spider gears is fine, so I thought it must be a ring & pinion mesh problem. However, I tried removing the pinion altogether & just placed the ring/cup/diff assembly into the bulkhead & turned it & it is that which feels grindy. The bearings are fine too. It feels like the ring gear is rubbing on something but I can't seem to see where it could be rubbing. When I rebuilt the diff, I put a brand new gasket in so it's not that. I'm wondering if my bulkhead is warped in some way? It's a real mystery. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks for your time. Lee.
 
this work take more time on the .21 and .25. you really have to take everything apart to get to them!!! my front is sticking so when i get a chance i need to jump on it and look at the gears. will lube them not that they will opened for the time since it got build by the factory!!!
 
this work take more time on the .21 and .25. you really have to take everything apart to get to them!!! my front is sticking so when i get a chance i need to jump on it and look at the gears. will lube them not that they will opened for the time since it got build by the factory!!!
We're talking about the XS. Nowhere near the same thing.
 
did you not read that i said .21 and .25... that because those trucks are a bit different!!!

But this is in the XS 1/12 scale electric rig forum and has nothing to do with the larger nitro cousins of the Savage platform..... :DOH:
 
2nd slipper clutch let go other week not to bad really over 12months both times due to getting truck way too wet been running mint for few bashes again

Avoid water at all costs they can't handle it aye



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grab a losi mini8 slipper pad and use some small wire cutters to trim it to size. its a way more durable material. I was burning stock ones daily until I did the losi one, and its been in there a year now.
 
super important to shim the diffs on any rc with monster tires and brushless/LiPo power. add shims outside the diff bearings and behind the pinion gear until the engagement is positive but not binding. There are tons of good tutorials you can look up, an the part numbers for the shimmy are on the factory parts diagrams. it will make your diffs last .
 

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