Bringing the Savage 25 out of retirement

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JAG0991

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New to the forum, old to nitro.

My Savage 25 is about 11 years old. A destroyed diff put it into retirement about 4 years ago but now, I can finally get round to fixin' it up. After fixing and thrashing around two Rush Evo's I can no longer stand by and let it be neglected ... if it still turns over :dead:

Apart from an "tuned" metal exhaust it is stock and I'd like to keep it mostly stock if I can.

Planning on:
- 2.4Ghz upgrade with fail-safe
No more running after a Savage going full throttle towards a flower bed, river, sea or innocent dog walker.

- Something to stop the endless cycle of AA batteries this thing used to get though.
Was thinking of packing a small LiPo into the battery box or a pair of 18650s in with a switching voltage regulator to get the 6ish volt for the rx and provide 7.2v to a stronger or faster steering servo maybe? Might get away with a waterproof battery box in the roll cage area or front bull bar. Try to keep the sometimes spontaneously combusting batteries away from the always flammable nitro fuel.

- Metal Diffs
- Clutch shoes/bell
- Brake set

Thoughts? o_O

I don't think I crash often enough to warrant too many upgrades.

And I can't be the first to want to escape the AA battery churn.
 
And yes the diffs in the 25 are about the hardest diffs to tear into you might look into a set of 29 / 9 tooth pinion and blocked and shimmed, maybe just get some powerful double a, rechargeable batteries, , you want good power to your servo s, get a 25 or 2700 hump pack, that will feed those servo s.
 
I went the stainless brake option with mine. hate the brakes and actuating system...

I recently acquired a piece of undrilled molded brake lining and am going to make mine a 1 disc setup with a thicker pad to solve it once and for all with the weak brakes... when I do it I will post up my results for all to see....
 
Cant wait to videos or pics keep us updated jagg0991. I also had the dual stainless disk brakes when I had my savage 25 years ago and heated them also.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll probably start ordering parts soon.

After having the engine out and the exhaust off it still looks pretty oily inside, and it turns over ok too. I'm happy that everything is probably fine.

I found that the easiest way of messing around with these voltages is a simple UBEC for the throttle servo and the receiver.

A 2 cell LiPo will output voltages of between 3.0v and 4.2v depending on how charged it is.With a 2 cell LiPo that is 6v-8.4v. I need to find a servo that can operate in that range. I don't want to go overkill with the servo torq and speed because as I'm sure the servo world be fine. I'm worried I'll just start ripping off other parts like the linkages. And the point of this is really battery life.

As for mounting the battery I'm thinking about putting a platform from the roll bar to the base of the front fork. The roll bar already has two holes halfway up I'm not using. A pin could hold this in place with a body clip on one end for quick release. This leaves quite a bit of space for small and larger batteries. Maybe even a waterproof battery box. May have to move the on/off switch though.
 

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