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Engine removal help!!
- Thread starter Beans33
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NightFlier X4.6
Well-Known Member
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- 1,193
- Location
- Ohio
No you should be able to take the four Allen head screws out of the motor mount from the bottom. By going through the rear skid plate.
francis Labarbara
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 456
- Location
- West Virginia
The big holes on the plate
francis Labarbara
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 456
- Location
- West Virginia
There are 50 threads on that.
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/savage-nitro-engines/
I run an LRP z28r
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/savage-nitro-engines/
I run an LRP z28r
- Thread starter
- #7
I was just looking up this engine and would I need to upgrade the drivetrain or anything else to accommodate the upgrade?
francis Labarbara
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 456
- Location
- West Virginia
No It will go right in. I ran a LRP .32 for a while and took it out. It is a beast and very fast. It just made my bashing area too small by the time I geared it up so the truck would stay on it's wheels..
- Messages
- 2,627
- Location
- Dekalb, IL 60115
The LRP28 is a good engine for a standard length savage. However, you may find that your diffs will grenade on you more quickly. I know the ones in my X didn't last long, but it was used when I got it. I upgraded to the super HD diffs and outer dogbones/axle stubs. Haven't had to look at the diffs in a couple years now.
Derekpike
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 352
And also don't forget to unhook your carb linkage and fuel lines .
- Thread starter
- #12
Yes of course lol
Derekpike
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 352
Sorry, may have been obvious, but thought I'd put that out there just in case.
- Thread starter
- #14
Yes but if any others reading this didn't know now they do so it's alright
- Messages
- 2,627
- Location
- Dekalb, IL 60115
The 454 is supposed to be pretty similar to the LRP28, but if it comes with losi's spin/pull start combo... I'd just get the LRP with pullstart instead. That combo starter is junk.
You may need to upgrade your diffs at some point. With proper shimming, they will hold up for a while. If you do replace, I suggest going with the bullet proof diffs. Might cost a little more, but will last way longer.
You may need to upgrade your diffs at some point. With proper shimming, they will hold up for a while. If you do replace, I suggest going with the bullet proof diffs. Might cost a little more, but will last way longer.
- Thread starter
- #16
OK thank you for the help. I think I will just change my diffs just to compensate.
- Thread starter
- #17
Do you have any pics or info on this diffs so I know if I'm getting the right ones or not
- Messages
- 2,627
- Location
- Dekalb, IL 60115
They have gears like these:
http://www.rcsuperstore.com/HPI-Sav...m_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine
Either machined (machined from solid steel) or sintered (compressed metal). The sintered ones I think were put into the brushless HP savage, the XL and the octane. I think the machined gears were an upgrade for even that.
http://www.rcsuperstore.com/HPI-Sav...m_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine
Either machined (machined from solid steel) or sintered (compressed metal). The sintered ones I think were put into the brushless HP savage, the XL and the octane. I think the machined gears were an upgrade for even that.
