hpi savage 4.6x with lrp ZR .32 engine

You will continue to have issues if you don't take the time to try it yourself. No one else in the world has your EXACT setup, so no one can tell you exactly how to do it. Tolerances will always be different even between two stock kits of the same type.

You have been given directions multiple times and it seems you would rather have someone else do it than learn to do it yourself. It's a simple fact, if you are not willing to work on the RC....you should sell it.

I am gonna work on the rig, I'm asking because when I took the cb off there was no shim just bearings, all I was asking where to place shim so the cb spins freely.

As I said already It has to be hand fitted. We cant tell you. Washers come in various thicknesses and that will determine what you have to use where. In general shims inside or behind the clutch bell move it in and out over the clutch shoes. You want them fully covered but nothing must drag. Shims on the outside between the screw and the bell control how much play you get.

Skyline1473 said:

I am gonna work on the rig, I'm asking because when I took the cb off there was no shim just bearings, all I was asking where to place shim so the cb spins freely.

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Again, there is no way for someone to give you an exact answer on that. They can tell you what their setup has, but your setup will likely need something different. It all comes down to test fitting and adjustment.

It does vary quite a bit from engine to engine, bell to bell, flywheel to flywheel.

Put enough shims on before you put the first bearing on so that when you put the bell on, the bell doesn't rub the flywheel. Then with the first bearing, cb and second bearing on, you will place shims on the shaft to take up the space between the 2nd bearing and the screw that goes into the end of the crankshaft that holds it together. In the end, you want there to be about .5mm of play so the bell spins freely and the screw is tight. You will also need threadlock on the screw for final assembly.

Hi guys
Got shims today and after messing about with how many to use and where to place them i.e top of clutch in between bearings and on the cb finally got it right and now my cb will spin freely yipeeee, tightened the cb screw and the cb has .5mm play up & down. Thanks to everyone for helping me. Tomorrow gonna put the engine back in and hopefully it will start and idle nicely whilst freely moving forward and backwards in neutral.

Lol reading this entire thread made me wanna fix my sloppy acceleration, would the clutch bell not completely covering the shoes cause a lapse in immediate acceleration?

Definitely a problem there. time to pull that engine out and find the trouble. I see the screw holding on the bell is about to fall out so it is time to investigate.....

Jam Racing 1 said:

Definitely a problem there. time to pull that engine out and find the trouble. I see the screw holding on the bell is about to fall out so it is time to investigate.....

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Lmfao I just noticed that after I took the pic and was like wow I need to take that out glad I didn't go out and run tonite!!!

Yeah... considering half your clutch isn't grabbing anything, your trying to run big block power with small block contact on your bell. If you ran for any duration like that, you may have cooked the front half of your shoes and will need to replace them.

Lol Olds let's hope for the best gonna pull it apart in about 10 I'll send a picture

I know about a bit of neglect myself. I haven't run my savage since the spring/early summer. When I was getting it ready to run last weekend (then didn't due to rain), I was checking my throttle end points to make sure I wasn't tugging on the carb at WOT and when I applied the brake, I saw the engine move. The engine bay chassis plate had come loose. Had to pull the engine to replace the screws and put new locknuts on the bottom.

Lol maintenance is key without it... it's expensive

Tbh they arnt that bad I was mostly breaking it in and haven't opened it up completely yet so that's lucky I guess

bet this beast gets power now!!!

got her completely rebuilt and cleaned too

All put back together gonna start it up after work see how ot goes lol

Lol figures I would lose my last grubs crew as soon as I cranked it and ran it 10 feet but acceleration was better

SavageLyfe said:

View attachment 2551 bet this beast gets power now!!!

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Would probably be best if you put a few shims behind your flywheel so you can move the entire assembly out to center the bell with the spur a bit better without having such a gap between the bell and flywheel.

olds97_lss said:

Would probably be best if you put a few shims behind your flywheel so you can move the entire assembly out to center the bell with the spur a bit better without having such a gap between the bell and flywheel.

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olds97_lss said:

Would probably be best if you put a few shims behind your flywheel so you can move the entire assembly out to center the bell with the spur a bit better without having such a gap between the bell and flywheel.

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you mean that gap? Only thing sticking out is tiny rim on fly wheel

Yeah, looked like you were almost showing shoe.

olds97_lss said:

Yeah, looked like you were almost showing shoe.

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Yea from the back angle it's showing a tiny amount(less than a mm) and 1 shim in the back would fix it but it shouldnt harm anything at washers width hopefully

francis Labarbara said:

How are you priming it?

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thats a good question on priming. How ever brand new don't do the finger over the exhaust or you hydrostatic lock it up. If it does that loosen or remove the glow plug and drain all of the fuel in the engine out before trying again. New engine are "tight".