What did you do to your HPI Savage today?

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seeingeyegod said:
Well I got it started tonight! I made my fuel line to the carb shorter, it was longer than it needed to be. I didn't overprime it this time, though I did start to see bubbles in the fuel line. Then my buddy managed to tighten down the glow plug about a 1/4 turn with a torque wrench and I stopped seeing the bubbles and hearing suction around the head so I guess it just wasn't tight enough. Ran about 1/3 of a tank, then another 2/3 while trying to keep it at approx 1/4 throttle the whole time with my finger. Got some fumes in my lungs. Good times. Also realized its much easier to prime by blowing down the muffler pressure tube than cranking it while covering the muffler.

Post 420!
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Glad ya got it sorted out! Now get that truck out and beat the snot out of it! I'm sure we'll hear more from you when the mod bug bites. ;)
 
Finally it's alive & oh how sweet the sound... O'Donnell has a unique smell, any way ran two tanks through the old girl this evening. Thanks goes out to Jam Racing 1 for suggesting a medium glow plug. I am using a O.S. LC4 for break in, temps during the two tanks stayed under 185 deg F.
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Added a few stickers this evening and upgraded throttle linkage from mixer to carb. The linkage seams to be much smoother now and in a straight line. Ran tanks 3 to 7 and began tuning high speed needle on tank 5. All I have to say is wow, out of nowhere this thing grabbed tail and hit second gear for the first time, I about sh$& myself, made me jump a little and... to late....cartwheeled off the LHS track. Smiling ear to ear on that one. At the end of the evening she started pulling the front end off the ground. So, now I'm hooked and need to find a bigger testing area!

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Painted my body last night, and couldn't get the truck started. I think my glow plug battery probably is too low. It did start once and run for about 30 sec then died when I tried to give it throttle, then after that felt flooded. Pull start is a PITA. I really need to get a rotostart, but I'm confused because I read that the rotostart2 doesn't come with the correct shaft to start a k4.6? Can anyone confirm?
 
seeingeyegod said:
Painted my body last night, and couldn't get the truck started. I think my glow plug battery probably is too low. It did start once and run for about 30 sec then died when I tried to give it throttle, then after that felt flooded. Pull start is a PITA. I really need to get a rotostart, but I'm confused because I read that the rotostart2 doesn't come with the correct shaft to start a k4.6? Can anyone confirm?
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The shafts look the same to me & your LHS can get just the shaft & you can use a drill in reverse at over 1000rpm (not preferred, set clutch on lowest setting). The only thing that I know for sure is that the xl chassis takes a longer Rod but the heads are the same.
 
seeingeyegod said:
Painted my body last night, and couldn't get the truck started. I think my glow plug battery probably is too low. It did start once and run for about 30 sec then died when I tried to give it throttle, then after that felt flooded. Pull start is a PITA. I really need to get a rotostart, but I'm confused because I read that the rotostart2 doesn't come with the correct shaft to start a k4.6? Can anyone confirm?
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To follow up, I looked on HPI's web site under K4.6 and you can get #87127 which is just the back plate assembly & buy the Rod #87116 for use in a drill or you can use 87126 which is the whole system back plate assembly/roto start & rod. You will need to also buy the battery and charger to operate the roto start.
 
Thanks.. I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out the correct part numbers. the HPI manual says#87131 is the whole kit including rotostart backplate and shaft, but I can't find one for sale anywhere. The HPI website on the other hand says the whole package is #87148. I guess I will just get the shaft and backplate first and see if the drill thing will work. At least I have plenty of old 7.2v batteries for potential use.
 
seeingeyegod said:
Thanks.. I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out the correct part numbers. the HPI manual says#87131 is the whole kit including rotostart backplate and shaft, but I can't find one for sale anywhere. The HPI website on the other hand says the whole package is #87148. I guess I will just get the shaft and backplate first and see if the drill thing will work. At least I have plenty of old 7.2v batteries for potential use.
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You are correct #87126 was discontinued, #87148 will work in both the K5.9 & K4.6. So, X & XL setups, longer rod is the only difference.
 
More wrenching this evening: added sway bar set, tweaking linkage, & added wheelie bar. After yesterday's tuning, I'm thinking these mods are needed.
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I made this outta some scrap abs I had laying around, keep my outer filter from getting ate up by the knob on the radio box lid.....

 
Jam Racing 1 said:
I made this outta some scrap abs I had laying around, keep my outer filter from getting ate up by the knob on the radio box lid.....

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Nice, that mod is on my list. I think I saw this in another post where someone used a old servo shipping box. I think I'll try my empty fuel container. It's a quart jug with a nice thick bottom and it will have a radius that might work well. I'll post picks.
 
Tried and failed to get my engine started again last night. Yay more blisters. The only difference I can see between when it started and ran a tank the other day, and last night, was that when it ran I didn't have the tank completely full. Would that make a difference? Glow plug battery was brand new and the pull start felt smoother than it did before the engine had never run, but I only got it to run for about 30 seconds, then nothing. I really hope the rotostart makes this easier but I was hoping the pull start wouldn't suck this bad on a new engine.
 
seeingeyegod said:
Tried and failed to get my engine started again last night. Yay more blisters. The only difference I can see between when it started and ran a tank the other day, and last night, was that when it ran I didn't have the tank completely full. Would that make a difference? Glow plug battery was brand new and the pull start felt smoother than it did before the engine had never run, but I only got it to run for about 30 seconds, then nothing. I really hope the rotostart makes this easier but I was hoping the pull start wouldn't suck this bad on a new engine.
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Perhaps you are still a little rich? What you say about the truck running better at half tank makes me say that. The way our fuel system is, it causes your tune to go leaner at around half tank. Not everyone sees this, but many do. This is why many people only tune for power at around half tank. And them some go even further and never run more than half tanks of fuel.
 
Well the engine is still at factory settings so it should be pretty rich, it's brand new. That kind of makes sense though as a reason why I can't start with a full tank thus far. I thought engines going lean when the tank is nearing dry was a universal trait of nitro engines but I hadn't considered being full causing it to be over rich. I hope that is the reason.
 
seeingeyegod said:
Well the engine is still at factory settings so it should be pretty rich, it's brand new. That kind of makes sense though as a reason why I can't start with a full tank thus far. I thought engines going lean when the tank is nearing dry was a universal trait of nitro engines but I hadn't considered being full causing it to be over rich. I hope that is the reason.
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Factory settings are largely only a reference point to start tuning. When breaking in a motor it is very common to lean out the LSN and HSN a little bit to keep it running.
 
My LSN actually looks like it is set slightly richer than what the manual says should be factory, like its about .5mm out past flush but I'm kinda afraid to mess with it.
 
Think of the needles as a clock face and make adjustments in 1 hour increments, turning clockwise will lean counterclockwise is richening, make small adjustments and test after each one... it will come around if you go slow.....
 
my purple rain savage ate 1 of those the last tank of 2 speed tuning. It was also a good day and then.......
Honestly with all of the options for spur gears I like robinson racing after dialing in with a plastic stock one.
 
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seeingeyegod said:
Well the engine is still at factory settings so it should be pretty rich, it's brand new. That kind of makes sense though as a reason why I can't start with a full tank thus far. I thought engines going lean when the tank is nearing dry was a universal trait of nitro engines but I hadn't considered being full causing it to be over rich. I hope that is the reason.
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Make sure your idle gap is sufficient, if rich you may need a bit larger gap. 1 to 1.5 mm is a good start
 
Finished rebuilding my front differential a week ago. The gear had shredded. I ran 1/2 a battery set through and rear differential went south. I ordered another gear set, and cracked open the rear diff housing, only to find that the complete alloy diff housing is split in 4 places. And I'm only running on 4S. It looks like the diff screws may have backed out, then exploded from the loose play.

Where can I find a complete differential? All I can find are parts to fix them. Can I reuse my spider gears? What can I all reuse?
 
Stole a fuel filter from one of my nitro planes I haven't flown forever, ran my 5th tank. Starting to tune and the engine is slowly starting to wake up. I even got it to shift to second a couple times going down hill on asphalt at about half throttle. Some pics :) http://imgur.com/a/odjsP

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Flux HD or the smaller one?

I noticed there aren't many BP diffs on ebay anymore. Used to do a search and find 100 of them. Now you just mostly find the pieces vs entire diffs with cases.
 
HD, Exactly my concern. Even tho I'm going to go through them anyway. I prefer whole assembly.
 
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