Savage XXL2 (dynamite .31 conversion)

Hello everyone, I'm a novice to the hobby. although I have done a fair amount of research, I only have 2 years or so with the savage line. I also had an rc10t2 back in the day.

First a little history on my truck. I bought it used off eBay, in early spring, two year ago.
I ran the truck in some very cold weather and ruined the piston and sleeve running it too cold. Bought a new piston and sleeve, my baby was good to go. After a proper break in, I took the truck to the track, ran it 4 - 5 weekends with no problems. I mean I could run this thing three 4 tanks in a row 2-4 hrs a day. Then, one day the back plate came loose and it got dirt in it. Boom!! sleeve ruined. While disseminating the engine I stripped out a screw hole too!!! Got a new piston and sleeve, crankcase, crankshaft, button head heatsink.. Basically a whole new engine. Assembled it and while i was doing break in, around the 5th tank, the rear end started grinding. At that point I was ready to sell.

I was talking to a friend and he offered to sell me his savage flux hp. I decided to pick it up and use the savage x for parts.

So their my baby sat, dirty, neglected, waiting for the next part to be taken, until she was .... no more. (Insert sad violin music here)

that fall, i saw the dynamite .31 and i knew this would be my trucks resurrection! So, let the transformation begin!

My plan is to make a this truck a "cruiser" not a self queen, I want to be able to jump it and power slide around corners but no triple back flips at full throttle through the air. She is to be the perfect blend of beauty, durability and fun!

So, the parts I have so far.
The star of the show the dynamite .31 ahhhh what a beauty

Some losi lst xxl shocks I picked up used and broken. I need to rebuild these.

Next we have, all the plastic bits soaking in some soapy water. (Dawn)

Then all the screws n those bits

The transmission, electronics and metal bits I didn't want in water.

During the dismantling process i found the reason for the rear end grinding

That's a bearing!! LoL And while I was looking, the diff seemed a little loose so I took it apart to find it almost dry inside, with a damaged pin!! Oh!! The neglect!! Forgive me!!



So the first steps are to get all the plastic parts cleaned and dried, rebuild the diffs, get a complete set of bearings for her and wait for the other parts to arrive.

To be continued......

Looks like you have a nice project, as with all these rigs , things will break and parts get destroyed....
Remember when you start reassembly that Locktite is going to be your best friend to keep all those parts happy and working in harmony.....Locktite ANYTHING that threads into metal.... it doesn't take a bunch but make sure to just use a good brand of blue locktite, personally I use permatex brand and you can get a large bottle at the auto parts store for about 13 bux......

Ok!!! Got all the plastic bits cleaned. That was a total pain. It took more effort than i thought To get the plastic back to it's original black color.

I did a little reading on diffs and shimming and diff oil. To be honest i'm the type who has to see it to learn it or do it. Reading a how to just doesn't work as well for me. So, I'm off to surf youtube. Any advice (or encouragement ) on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

Jam Racing 1 said:

Looks like you have a nice project, as with all these rigs , things will break and parts get destroyed....
Remember when you start reassembly that Locktite is going to be your best friend to keep all those parts happy and working in harmony.....Locktite ANYTHING that threads into metal.... it doesn't take a bunch but make sure to just use a good brand of blue locktite, personally I use permatex brand and you can get a large bottle at the auto parts store for about 13 bux......

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice, i use the same brand as you. I do loctite all the metal into metal screws. However with my back plate issue i neglected to clean the threaded holes on the crankcase. That's my guess any way.

what a great project you have going, i can see you know what your doing, all i can add to this is, take your time and enjoy the build, that gas engine looks sweet, ive not really liked gas engines as they seem too sluggish, but from what ive seen performance wise from your dynamite, its as close if not better in ways than a nitro, i think it will be the engine to convert nitro heads to liking gas

Nothing new to report, still waiting for my flm stuffs to arrive.

I do have a question about the flm stuffs. The TVPs are thicker, so am I going to need longer screws?

Jack Cooper said:

Nothing new to report, still waiting for my flm stuffs to arrive.

I do have a question about the flm stuffs. The TVPs are thicker, so am I going to need longer screws?

Click to expand...

I think the screws are countersunk and recessed so longer ones will not be needed.....

Nice, I've been thinking of this myself! Glad to see you documenting it.

You don't NEED longer screws for the FLM. That said, the stock screws suck, most are coarse threaded, and all are weak.

ive been waiting for somebody to do this converson( I want to do it myself, but not for awhile) glad to see somebody doing it!!!

Jr. said:

Nice, I've been thinking of this myself! Glad to see you documenting it.

You don't NEED longer screws for the FLM. That said, the stock screws suck, most are coarse threaded, and all are weak.

Click to expand...

Any recommendations on a better screw set?

many companys, including hpi, make ss screw kits. hobbypartz and amazon sell them for pretty cheap

Back in the day, I used an RC Raven kit, it was pretty complete.

Lately, I used the guide Woody has posted here on the forum and McMaster-Carr to order a ton of 12.9 black oxide hex heads.

It's hard to go wrong with any replacement really.

Here you go, https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/hpi-savage-25-manaual-and-parts-listing.14274/ Roll down and all the hardware is listed.

Ahhh yes!!!!! Let the build begin!!!!!!

Hooray! I'm living vicariously through you lol

Ok i got a few things done. I shimmed the diffs and the bevel gears. Then i partially assembled the chassis to see what obstacles lay in my path. The first thing i notice is, to put the gas tank where i want it (where the stock electronics box was) and to get the has tank lots enough in going to have to get creative with the servo locations. I really want to keep reverse so this is going to be interesting.

2nd thing... and i kinda assumed this. I'm going to have to completely fabricate an engine mount. Hmmmmmm.......

Jack Cooper said:

Ok i got a few things done. I shimmed the diffs and the bevel gears. Then i partially assembled the chassis to see what obstacles lay in my path. The first thing i notice is, to put the gas tank where i want it (where the stock electronics box was) and to get the has tank lots enough in going to have to get creative with the servo locations. I really want to keep reverse so this is going to be interesting.

2nd thing... and i kinda assumed this. I'm going to have to completely fabricate an engine mount. Hmmmmmm.......

Click to expand...

Are you using the Fastlane servo plate with your TVP's? If so, it allows all three servo's to be mounted, with a tank on top.

I'm assuming... The Dynamite doesn't have the standard Big Block bolt pattern? SO it won't bolt to the Stock mount? If so, what about using the Dynamite mount? Then it's just a matter of marking and drilling holes right?

I am using the fml servo plate. problem is, i want to use the savage octane fuel tank. If i mount the servos on the plate where they should be the gas tank will be sitting way to high for my liking. I want the tank during just above the servo plate. So I'm going to move the servos. just need to figure out how.

The issue with the engine is its longer by about a half inch, giver or take.

Long, as in the ridiculously long crank is sticking forward and hitting the spur? Have you put a clutch on it and determined where your clutchbell will land? Because you can trim the crank end down.

Yea, i put the clutch bell on it. I'm possibly going to order a savage flux plate and modify it. The other problem with the fit, is the fly wheel is so big it actually lower that the engine mount and prevents the engine from sitting flat. Looks like I'll need to figure that in as well

Did some tinkering today. I figured out how I'm going to mount the servos, keep reverse and have the gas tank low enough.

This is just a mock mounting i did too make sure I'll have enough room.





So, I'll have a servo on each side, one for steering one for the reverse. And ill mount the throttle/brake servo towards the rear of the truck.

Update!!!!

i got the servo mounts started. (This isn't the servo I'm using for the steering I'm still waiting on that one to show up). I still need to make a set for the other side. I made them out of some little aluminium blocks. Cut in some notches. And boom done.

That actually makes sense, can you notch the plate and let it ride in the notch?

You're doing great work here! And... My gf and I both just got new jobs... So... Hopefully I'm not far behind

Nice build! I actually just ordered a handful of parts to do this converaion on an old Truckzilla I have hanging around. No where near as nice as your build but hopefully I'll add another dynamite gas burner savage to the list in the near future.
I didn't do much (any reasearch), just got a wild hair in the middle of the night and started ordering parts. Ended up ordering a savage octane radio box and front servo plate to go with the octane fuel tank. Hopefuly that saves me some time and headache. Good luck with the build! Can't wait to see it completed!

I'm curious to see what you used for an esc mount.....as i am not sure what to use on mine..

I took a dynamite .31 out of a Losi Eight-T. An LRP zr32 was a bolt in swap. Exactly the same size.
Here it is next to an HPI 4.6


the difference is the clutch/clutch bell.