Dodgy Steering

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Krisj

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4
Hi Guys/Girls, I'm new to the forum and I'm hopping you lot can help me out.
I have a Savage 25 with reverse, and when driving forward the steering is practically non existent. But when I switch to reverse the drive the steering works great, can get one wheel off the floor. Not very useful tbh considering its best in reverse, if I disconnect the forward/rev servo the steerings fine, so its not the controller. Plus I have a full second unit for spares and I have swapped servos like mad trying different combinations to no avail. Any ideas, My initial thoughts is it cant be servos or controller as I have done different tests to eliminate both.
 
first off, welcome to the forum! ur correct, it's probably not the servos or the rx. what rx battery are u using? maybe it's not capable of running both servos at the same time.
 
Hi.
I'm using a 4x AA holder. Is this what I should use? It came with the (bought second hand though), assumed this was right.
How would I reverse the servo? Take it out and literally turn it round and move the servo arm in relation? Or is there another way?
Thanks
 
hi Krisj,

I think what rcnut14 means is reversing the channel on your TX.
You did mention that when you disconnect the forward/reverse servo, the steering servo works as it should. Seems like what rcnut14 also mentioned in his first post about the rx battery may be the issue.
Your using x4 AA in the battery holder. From my personal experience, they work but are don't provide enough power for the servos. Considering we are using high torque and large servos for our trucks, compared to an RC plane's servos, they need sufficient power to function and depending on the task performed, consume more current.
Regular Alkaline batteries don't have as high a discharge of current (not volts) compared to a NiMH rechargeable AA's. I currently run hump packs for my Savage and they are the best overall. In a nutshell, regular alkaline batteries can't pump out enough current for the steering servo at the same time running another servo and the rx. Switching to rechargeable NiMH AA are consideration. But if you can, get a good rx hump pack which will provide all the power you need for all your servos.
Alkalines also drop in performance halfway through and get weak the more they are called upon to provide current. Your forward/reverse servo doesn't draw as much current then the steering.

On a side note, when you say your steering is non existent, is that in a standstill or driving? Just to clarify as if at a standstill, those chunky tires hardly move.

Just my thoughts!
 
Yeah that pack should work well. I'm not familiar with that brand tho as I live across the pond. I use nosram packs for my Rx.
Do you have any rechargeable AA batteries around to do a test? No harm trying. Even if you buy this pack it will serve well in the long run and is way more efficient then Alkaline AA cells!
Let us know how it goes!
 
Using rechargeable AA batteries will not change much. Yes you gain greater current capacity, and it will help, but the voltage gain is a much bigger deal. The big difference comes when going to a hump pack, which contains 5 cells. This gives an extra 1.2V to the receiver/servos. If you look at the specs for servos there is always a big jump in torque capability between 4.8V running and 6V running.
 
X is correct, running a 5 cell rechargeable pack will make steering work much better...... one can find them with charger pretty cheaply at hobby shops and online..... one thing to remember is the hump pack needs the same care as batteries used to run electric cars, I made a single discharge bulb for my hump packs and bring the volts down while they are not being used...... if taken proper care of they last for years all while giving good performance.....
 
Hi guys, just a quick update, tried rechargeable aa's and the steering works. I cant wait for the hump pack to arrive now, no doubt this will sort things based on the results so far.
Thank you all so much for the advice, I shall report back when the hump has arrived and I have tested it :) would never have suspected that to be the problem.
 
Thats great news!
As X has mentioned, the change will show an improvement but your better off with the hump pack or a dedicated RX pack. And it does seem a lack power was the issue!
Await your final verdict!
 
Never used one of those...then again...I think I never used the same brand truck and battery ever...lol! Even with my planes.
I use a NOSRAM 5000 NiMH hump with no issues. But I think the hpi one should be ok...
 
Okay... i am new with nitros. I got an brand new x 4.6 and i am trying to find good hump pack. I don't want to open batterybox everytime i have to charge it.
 
The battery box helps protect it and prevents it from getting punctured during a bad crash and from flopping around when you do jumps

Only thing I can think off if you wish to leave the battery in there to charge is to do a mod where you have the connector mounted thru the cover where you can then plug your charger lead into.

Personally I prefer to spend the time opening the cover up as it allows me to check the insides when I do so, check the servos in there, the switch and clear any dust or dirt from it. Also, I like my batteries to get ample cooling and ventilation when being charged.
 
The x style electronics box has a charge port on the side. The little rubber cover comes off and you plug in the cable. There is a "U" shaped plastic piece under there that holds battery charging lead to the top of the electronics box.
 
Thanks for the advice. I think I'm gonna buy Robitronic 3600 hump pack from local shop. It contains also charging cable. Cant wait to gettin start the break in. Its kind a cold weather still here in Finland , so i have to wait little while. Only +5 celcius.
 
Ah! Thats right X! Forgot about that little hole in the electronics box! After doing the mid tank mod on mine...I never looked at that box again!
 

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