when you take the air filter off, hit the throttle once (with the engine off)
you will see how the carb open and closes..when the carb closes there should be a small gap (if the carb closed all of the way, it would shut off)
the small gap allow's a small mixyure of air and fuel to...
i just do it by eye, and ear....the opening is just shy of 1/8"...you will feel that there is a fine line with the idle...you can only go so high before the clutch engage's and wants to lurch the car forward.
keep slowly turning it until the the car starts to lurch forward, the slightly...
is the engine removed from the chassis?
if not, thats the first step....there are 4 allen head screw's holding the engine mount to the chassis, they are easy to get to from underneath the truck.
once you get the engine out, remove the 3 small allen head or phillip's head screw's holding...
set the idle screw to hold the idle open, sound's like applying the brake could be killing it?
maybe try a different plug?
lean it out a little?
do you tune with a temp gun at all?
look at my post above your's.
all you need to order is HPI part # 1428
you use the bearing that is allready on your crankshaft under the rotostart.
remove the 3 screw's, take off the rotostart, make sure the 1 way bearing is on the crankshaft, then install the pullstart, and re-install...
i don't mind the rotostart, i just don't like having to carry it with me of i leave my pit area (fuel bottle, ignitor, rotostart)
so i purchased a pull starter as my first upgrade.
Part # 1428 works with the 1 way bearing in the rotostart.
i always used large round ballon's to wrap the reciever and servo's...a few small zip tie's around the wire's, or the linkage off the horn, and they are pretty good.
i don't drive my truck under water, but i did use them in the snow alot.
i really want to pickup the black 1/2" offset maximizer beadlock's, but ive read they are for std size MT tire's.
has anyone tried 40 series tires on them?