I have a few questions about my shocks I am still have the stock savage shocks (there cheep and work well) But I want to rebuild them... I need a good wight oil I like to bash mostly (I need a good all around oil, one that handles good on rough terrien and on large jumps also does anybody have the (code ) to what the color: springs meen; and do u guys have any tips on the rebuilding of them like how full r u supposed to fill them and after u fill them and put the cap back on dose the shaft rebound after u compress it??? any help would be great thanks guys.....
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shock rebuilding????
- Thread starter Jeremy
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k0m0d067
Well-Known Member
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I don't know positively, but I'm pretty sure, that a compressed shock won't spring back...the piston and oil inside of the shock only act to slow the action, or dampen the sudden jolt...the springs are what cause the shock to return to it's original state/position...
as far as rebuilding them, I can't help you...never done it myself...
as far as rebuilding them, I can't help you...never done it myself...
shock oil really depends on what the driver perfers. I would stay for 30wt -50wt depending on springs used and pistons used. I am not sure on codes for the different springs, I think black (26 coils) is super firm, purple (26 coils) is super firm, blue (26 coils)is firm, green (23.5 coils)is med, and red (27 coils) is soft, those are HPI springs. The Integy Progressive springs are as follows- Green Super Hard, Brown Extra Hard, Red Hard, Purple Medium, and Blue Soft.
You want to fill the shocks up and cycle the shafts up and down slowly to get the air out before you put the caps back on.
You want to fill the shocks up and cycle the shafts up and down slowly to get the air out before you put the caps back on.
polystyrene
Well-Known Member
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- Glasgow, UK
for jumping use a thicker oil, softer oil absorbs the impact of a jump BEFORE you leave the ramp and lessens the jump height/distance/backflip ability.
you need to balance this with shocks to absorb enough of the landing not to pass the force into the rest of the truck.
you should fill the shock until you see a slight concave of oil on top of the shock with the shock shaft fully compressed (correct me if I'm wrong). then cycle the shaft to get the air out as jtmt72 says then screw on your cap again with the shaft fully compressed and wipe of any excess oil which leaks out.
thats how i do mine anyway
you need to balance this with shocks to absorb enough of the landing not to pass the force into the rest of the truck.
you should fill the shock until you see a slight concave of oil on top of the shock with the shock shaft fully compressed (correct me if I'm wrong). then cycle the shaft to get the air out as jtmt72 says then screw on your cap again with the shaft fully compressed and wipe of any excess oil which leaks out.
thats how i do mine anyway
- Thread starter
- #7
so the shaft needs 2 b fully compressed when u fill them ?????also I read that the shaft needs to rebound when the shock is built right (I know that KoMoD said otherwise I have heard thats its not supposted to rebound ither so iam kinda confussed here thanks for the help guys!!!!!!
When I do my shocks I usually start with the shock 1/4 compressed then fill--cycle the shaft--top off, and let sit while I do the same to the remaining shocks. Go back to the first install cap lose and compress shock then tighten cap when fully compressed, wipe off any excess after words. My shocks usually rebound only slightly, (I think that is due to the air that is trappedin the cap but not sure though).
Also remember that you need to lube the orings before you install the shafts, to prevent seal damage.
If you are racing I would recommend investing in a Team Losi's Shock Matching Tool (LOSA99170) it helps in making sure 2 shocks end up exactally the same in preformance.
This is why I would rather rebuild diffs and center gear boxes all day rather than rebuild shocks, I dread rebuilding shocks.:bang:
Also remember that you need to lube the orings before you install the shafts, to prevent seal damage.
If you are racing I would recommend investing in a Team Losi's Shock Matching Tool (LOSA99170) it helps in making sure 2 shocks end up exactally the same in preformance.
This is why I would rather rebuild diffs and center gear boxes all day rather than rebuild shocks, I dread rebuilding shocks.:bang:
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polystyrene
Well-Known Member
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- Location
- Glasgow, UK
if they expand fully chances are there is a big air bubble in them. the should rebound slightly without a spring
groovethumper
Nitro, anyone?
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- 241
I don't know about you guys,but the winters in Canada are very cold. The trinity or losi shock oils freeze up. so i use motor oil (5w30). It doen't freeze up. I also use HPI's aluminium shocks. I swapped out the pistons from my stock shocks(for some reason they are smoother). I wouldn't spent all that money on shock oil. I've rebuilt my shocks a good half dozen times, and I've still more than half of the quart left. (4 bucks a quart)
rebiuld procedure
after shocks are completely empty and clean)
1. fully expand shock & fillto top.
2. compress & decompress shock slowly for 2-3 mins (making sure there are no air bubbles).
3. fully expand shock fill til level w/top of shock,screw on cap,wipe and on to the next one.
Please keep in mind that this is the standard procedure for stock X shocks.
if you require the procedure for the aluminium version please let me know.
rebiuld procedure
after shocks are completely empty and clean)1. fully expand shock & fillto top.
2. compress & decompress shock slowly for 2-3 mins (making sure there are no air bubbles).
3. fully expand shock fill til level w/top of shock,screw on cap,wipe and on to the next one.
Please keep in mind that this is the standard procedure for stock X shocks.
if you require the procedure for the aluminium version please let me know.
groovethumper
Nitro, anyone?
- Messages
- 241
p.s i do lots of bashing and jumping too. also don't make them to stiff you want the truck to bottom out a little, saves on having to replace shock shafts on a regular basis. Peace.
Fx
Well-Known Member
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- 1,932
I see you point but let me point out two things.
1) Shock Oil is only about 3 bucks
2) 5W30 isn't the same as shock oil, shock oil is made for lot's of movement and has much smoother movement.
I used 10W30 at one time for bashing and it was fine, but if your racing I would get the right stuff.
groovethumper
Nitro, anyone?
- Messages
- 241
we were talking about jumping and bashing. yes 3 bucks for what volume.
And as i pointed out shock oil freezes in the winter. I've run my truck in -30 degrees celcius. The stock oils freeze solid. Peace.
And as i pointed out shock oil freezes in the winter. I've run my truck in -30 degrees celcius. The stock oils freeze solid. Peace.
![[hs] darkshine](/data/avatars/m/1/1018.jpg?1394969783){kind=avatar}
[hs] darkshine
I Keep Breakin $h!t
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- cambridge, england
i'm running irc shocks with 45wt oil in. i think it's orion oil. it adds a bit more compression damping to the truck now, whereas before i had to run a lot of preload to compensate. it's personal prefernce at the end of the day. but mine still handles the small bumps really well.
