TheFixxer's "The Assassin"

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Well the extended TVP kit is not in the budget for the month. I will have to wait until next month. I have also maxed out my patience getting the s702 to work with the mods needed to the shock tower to make it work. I stopped at the LHS and picked up a new shock tower (which I will need anyway when I get the extended chassis kit anyway) to replace the one I have mangled the bejesus out of trying to get the dang wand to fit through to turn the tiger drive.

So for now I am going back to a pull start until I can get the chassis. Question...in my box of goodies I got with the Duratrax Maximum MT Pro there is a NIP pull start. Are pull starts universal? If so I can get The Assassin back into running form for awhile. It saddens me to see it sitting there and I am sure it is jealous when it sees me walk out the door with the Revo..lol.
 
Truck is torn down again. Heard a funny noise in both the diffs. Concerned I might have reassembled them wrong (although I am not sure how) so better safe than sorry. I would hate to put power through them and screw them up. The good thing is it really doesn't take much time to tear a Savage apart. I think a guy could literally do it track/bash site side in no time at all. Took me 2 days to tear apart the Revo and another 3 to reassemble.

Didn't see anything out of place so maybe I was not really hearing a funny noise after all.
 
Have you checked the diffs for any play? In some cases i've used @FastEddy shim kit in diffs to make sure everything is nice and snug with not much play in them.
 
They seemed fine when I tore them down for inspection. With them still assembled but out of the truck I didn't hear that same clicking I heard when they are on the truck.

On another note. In my process thus far I have neglected the shocks. Didn't do anything to them. I am thinking just for good measure I would rebuild them. I am positive they are original and one of them the retainer cup on the bottom is ovaled out and slips down on the shock rod end when the shock is compressed. So the question is....what weight oil are you guys using?
 
For you setup I would assume something like 30 wt. or 35 wt. would do well. My recommendation is to buy several bottles of whatever you can afford and try them out to see what you like. I typically keep from 15 wt. on up to 50 wt. on hand.
 
Uh oh. Last night I was removing the last bits of the hideous purple paint the previous owner had used. It appears when they painted they didn't bother taking it apart to paint because the purple was all over the fasteners. Anyway...while getting the paint off a particular part I decided to use the wire wheel on my bench grinder. Some of the paint was stubborn so I thought if I just kiss it against the side of the grinding wheel on the other side it would come right off....well it did, but...... In the process it got loose from me and lodged itself between the side of the grinding wheel and the housing. I shut it off immediately but some damage happened.





This is part that the rear drive shaft goes into on the transmission. You can see where the grinding wheel had lunch. Question is will that cause issues with drive-train balance? Should I just go get a new one?
 
MAJOR DEVELOPMENT!!!

Decided to take another crack at the Tiger Drive s704. I bought it so I might as well get it to work. After a whole bunch of research I find the s704 is NOT the unit I need for my particular XTM 24.7 despite what Sullivan's cross reference page says. The s704 uses a shaft for an internal OWB. Now, in stock form this would be the one I need. But, something clicked while I was working on it last night that the pull start I pulled off the engine was from a TRX 2.5/R which after a little homework I discovered that the TRX 2.5/R uses a shaft for an external OWB. Both scenarios verified by looking at exploded views of the 24.7 and the 2.5/R. They are indeed different. It's well known the stock 24.7 pull start sucks bag so I am thinking it was modified to work with a pull start from a 2.5/R.

Looking at the Sullivan cross reference page it appears the TRX 2.5/R uses an s702 which is for an external bearing. LHS contacted and part on the way. Hopefully this will all come together.

Still looking for an answer to the issue with the snack my bench grinder had on the post above.
 
I would probably replace it. It's not likely to cause much of an issue, so you can probably drive it that way in the mean time until you get a new one. Worst comes to worst, you hold onto it as a spare part.
 
ya i agree with X here , put it in spares and get a new one.... if ya gotta use it it will be ok for awhile I suppose.......
 
Done and did. Picked up a new one just moments ago. The guy at the LHS said it most likely would cause problems over time and not right away. It would cause a balance problem and send worsening vibrations through the transmission and eventually just shake itself apart if I wasn't paying attention. Funny how a fraction of a gram can cause huge problems.
 
So I am at a stand still for the moment on The Assassin while I wait for a couple parts. I was looking over the pieces and parts all over the kitchen table and it occurred to me I did not know what it was geared at so I took a look. Looks like 18/47. Sound good to you guys or should I think about changing that. Not looking for any performance gains on either side of the torque/speed spectrum. Just a good all around gearing for bashing and once in awhile stomping all over my Revo and the other TRX fanboys at the track for fun. I already know from when I first got it it will eat the traxxas stock t-maxx guys and spit em out. Revo 3.3's it just kinda snacks on.
 
Here is a chart that should help you out some:

Gears.gif


The higher the ratio the more torque, less speed. The lower the ratio the higher top speed, less torque.

That being said, I tend to like a 16/48 combo (3.00 ratio) for good all around driving.
 
I have 17/47 in my Savage 25 right now, about to go back to 17/49 in it. I have a 16/52 in my new Savage X, that is the stock gearing for the XL 5.9 and those Losi tires on my new truck are the same diameter as the 5.9 tires but a lot wider, so I figured that would be a good starting point to try for that truck.
 
Does this look bad?



Can I buy just the slipper pad or do I have to buy the whole spur?
 
Yep, that is bad. You can just buy the pad, I think they come in a pack of two. Your spur gear appears to be fine from what I can see.
 
Yup, replace it. There are two versions out there, as far as HPI replacement parts go.

The standard (what you have):
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/72131

And the Ceramic:
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/107454

I'd be curious to see how the ceramic do, as I've never seen someone run them (they are around three times the price of the standard). For me though, I tighten the slipper all the way down. So It's extremely rare for me to have to replace my pad..
 
Alright, took a quick spin over to the LHS. They had the standard pads so I got those, but I could not buy just the pads. 2 in pack but also came with a a 47T spur so I have an extra spur and pad just in case now.

I also ordered a new brake disc. The one I had was in pretty rough shape. That will be in tomorrow. I also picked up a new pull start because the s702 Tiger Drive I ordered is still 5 days out. I would like to get this thing back together early evening so I can get back to brappin. Broke the lower control arms on the Revo and I have a hankerin to play trucks. The brake pad should hold a few more runs.
 
SO flippin frustrated. First of all, 2 hours into reassembly I realized I wasn't going to be done in time to play trucks tonight. Should have known better it always take longer to put it back together than it does to tear it apart.

Managed to break the flippin linkage horn for the carb....thought it looked bent so I tried to straighten it out. Busted off and landed on the other side of the kitchen. Next, was putting the front end back together and getting it bolted to the TVP, then realized after most of the front end was all put together I forgot to put the flippin drive shaft in. Took apart and finished that. Then I was taking the fuel line off the tank because I got a fuel filter and managed to snap the flippin nipple off the tank cap. Luckily my LHS is on facebook and we are on a first name basis. Sent a parts list to them so they will see it first thing in the morning and I'll have it Monday.
 
Geez man slow down a lil bit else we gonna have to change your name to The Breaker.....
:lmao: sux you breakin stuff, I find when I do that it is time to stop trying to fix it and stop costing myself money :)
 
I know right. I put myself in time out until tomorrow.

I wish there was a simple fix for the fuel tank cap. Broke that sucker off flush with the cap. Looked at it for awhile and can't come up with some ingenious way to rig it. I can't seem to find a part number for just the cap other than after market aluminum caps. So a new tank it is.

Eyeballs are tired. More adventures tomorrow.
 
Actually that is very helpful. I will do that instead. Thanks man.

Any chance you have a fix for the broken linkage horn? It's listed in the manual as part # 85051 but that is a whole parts tree. I only need one little stupid piece off of it. Its the 90* part off this http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/85058 which is different from the manual part # 85051 but I am sure it's the same thing.
 
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Edited post #53 to reflect the HPI plastic part. Is it right?
 
Ok, got the parts tree with the part I needed, LHS only had the whole thing and for $11 I have some spare parts now. Also picked up a fuel pressure nipple tap thingy for the fuel cap, a fail safe, a new throttle servo, 35w shock oil, and brake disk.

Not all jacked up on Mountain Dew do maybe I can focus and avoid breaking stuff today.
 
Lol. Probably not the 2nd one but I definitely get a little aggresive with stuff as the 1st one suggests.
 
Got all the mishaps from last night fixed and a little more done on reassembly, Mainly with the shock rebuilds. One of the hitec servos was DOA so I have to stop by the LHS tomorrow and exchange it. Threw a futaba S-3004 in it for now for testing purposes. It's the throttle servo so maybe I will just leave it and exchange the DOA hitec for some other parts and supplies. A few extra glo-plugs perhaps.
 

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