Brand new savage x 4.6 idle Problem

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and would like to introduce myself first my name is Alex and I am an hvac technician from staten Island NY.

Now that we got that out of the way here's what I got. I just bought a brand new savage x 4.6 that looks AWESOME! Started the thing up to break it in the wheel started spinning 6,000 mph at idle. I have the wheels off the ground and all. I had called hpi and they don't know what to tell me after about 2 hours of trouble shooting. I adjusted the idle gap about 1mm and lowered the idle sounds great but the clutch is still engaging at low rpm. I did a ton of research and still didn't find anything with my exact problem. The only thing I could think of is that the clutch Springs at to loose?

Please advise I am going crazy from not being able to run this bad a$$ truck. Thank you in advance for your help.

Put it on the ground and run it in small circles for a bit, it will prolly settle down after a bit and allow some tuning to take place. don't go wfo or anything just a couple tanks runnin slow and easy... after that then try resetting the needles and radio endpoints to begin real tuning.....

Thanks for the input but I don't wanna let it loose on the ground it will be unstoppable. There is definitely something wrong with I think the clutch.

ok but just so ya know, breakin in the engine with the wheels off the ground is not the best for stressing the rod and piston in that nu engine..... Good Luck and check some vids on u tube about breakin of new savage engines....

I just reread what I had responded and realized it might of come out sounding nasty. Sorry if I came off that way. I understand what you are trying to say but I had watched all the break in videos I could find and all the forums I could find and none solved my problem. So I figured what better way then to ask fellow savage users. Do you think it's possible that it is the clutch Springs that are not tight enough and that's causing the clutch to always engage.

doubt it , but anything is possible, I would start with the linkages and check all the end points on the servo and throttle linkage, one thing is the th trim, make sure it is at 0 and that the carb slide is closed fully to the idle stop... if thats all good then try starting it up again and see what goes.... if ya feel comfortable then by all means pull the engine and inspect the clutch, but make sure to use locktite blue on all the screws when ya reassemble it.... the manual does detail these things and rereading it cant hurt none either.... don't get discouraged with it, one last question is have ya ever messed with nitro rigs before ? caz there aint nuthin like a lil experience to help ya along......

Yeah I can pull the engine and all that and feel good about it. I was in the hobby about 6 or so years ago. I had a hand full of hpi drift cars and some cen (pieces of junk). I'm just a bit ticked off. I should have to go through this issue with a new truck. I'm going to see what hpi wants to do. Might have them send me some spare parts like the clutch I probably almost burnt out due to the issue . thing is I can disassemble the clutch tyranny engine and be OK but I won't know what it should look like or how it should be when correct. That's what's screwing me up that the engine is idling very nice but the wheels keep on going.

can ya stop the wheels with the brakes ?

Yes I can. I has to fix the brakes to by the way. I had none when I first unbound it. The wheels stop but then the engine start straining and I get a smoke from the clutch bell section as it I'm burning it

well if HPI support aint helpin ya then seems you are on your own for solutions, when ya remove the engine check the bearings in the bell and clean em and reoil them lightly, the springs are on each individual shoe on this truck so there is 3 of them to check for breaks or being bent...also check each shoe face for discoloration and heat damage. when ya put it all together make sure the bell spins freely with just the tiniest bit of play back and forth, too little and the shoes and bearing will bind causing another problem...

Will do. Thanks for the information. Once I have the whole thing apart and I'm looking at the springs what would I do to see if they are good and setup properly? Can I tighten them to delay the clutch but cutting them a ring or two smaller?

no, to change the engagement rate you will need new springs in either a lighter or heavier gauge wire.....

Hmm Ok. Guess I'll take her apart and take a look and see what I can find thanks for the help. I'll keep you posted

I don't buy into your thought pattern of the clutch being at issue here. You would need to have an extremely worn spring or have one broken. This in a brand new truck is extremely unlikely. Jam gave you good advice with the linkage (adjusting endpoints of the servos and adjusting the linkage in general), though you never responded back if you checked into that. Between the linkage and the tune I think you will find your issue.

If you can take a short video of the issue we might be able to help further.

Awesome thanks for that. I will look into it later tonight and I will be sure to make a video of what's going on. Thanks again

Ok so I finally got around to getting the engine out took a few pictures of my carb gap and the clutch shoes. One does feel a little bit looser then the rest.

@X what do you mean by end point and linkages? Can you please describe that in a bit more detail. Thank again for you help guys

On your remote you can dial in how your servos work. By doing that you set the endpoints and the starting position. In this case ,for instance, say your throttle/brake servo had it's standard location in a position where it is engaging the throttle. You would have to adjust it on your remote so it is in a neutral position when you are not actively engaging the throttle. Also changing the endpoints really help with the brakes. If you don't want the brakes to hit as hard you can dial back the throw to that side. As far as adjusting the linkages, this is simply a mechanical way of adjusting the endpoints like you were doing with the remote. Sometimes you have to do a combination to get what you want. You can tighten or loosen certain parts of the linkage.