Doobee's Newbie Link's

[DOOBEEWHA]

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================================================== ===========================

OK, Newbie's.....FOCUS UP!!!!!!....lol:whip:


It would take you hours and hours and hours... and then, two more hours to find all the killer info
that this thread contains with these LINKS.

Here is a complilation of links, threads, and even video's, to help you through the rough times of
your nitro issues.

It's an ALL-STAR cast of member submitions, postings, thread refferences, ect, ect, ect.

AND...It will be periodically updated with additional links as time goes by.
_____________________________________________

-------------------------------------------ENJOY
--------------------------------LINKS, VIDS, AND GREAT INFO
--------------------------------------Updated 08-28-07
_____________________________________________

OK... Just a precurser to those who are new to this forum,... Or any other forum for that matter...
General Considerations for Edicate.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2382
Submited by: Megabyteme
_____________________________________________

First off, lets get you aware of the terms, definitions, and abrieviations to Nitro Talk. This thread
has been merged into a multi-membered compilation of info.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2295
Submited and and periodically updated by: Fxstrongside, HPI Savage 25, and others.
_____________________________________________

Here's a link to a thread that covers alot of usable info. Like links and definitions to terms, and
Q & A. It is, IMO, my best effort to provide help a new member here. This member asked all the
right questions and kept me on my toes.lol. I hope it will help you, also.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2870&page=2
Insights by: Doobeewha and others
______________________________________________

Here's Rick Brake's web site. You will definately want to know about him as time goes by.
http://rbmods.net/home.php
Posted by: Site Jester
______________________________________________

Clutch Bell/Spur gear Chart
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3076
Posted by: Crash
-----------------
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2005&highlight=manuals
Posted by Megabyteme and JT
______________________________________________

This is Part I of the HPI's Nitro Tuning Vid for the savage Watch this vid as many times as
you can stand!!!!lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSmMzpZM_As&mode=related&search=
Posted by: Site Jester
______________________________________________

And part II of the HPI's Nitro Tuning Vid Watch this vid as many times as you can stand, also!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJFsJAxNoRg&mode=related&search=
Posted by: Site Jester
______________________________________________

JT's "Sealing an Engine" write up/with pics by Santa claw
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1511
Submitted by: JT
______________________________________________

Buying a new mill? Here's a great break-in method by Stephen Bess.
http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php
Posted by: Site Jester
______________________________________________
NOW THIS IS FOR INTERRESTING READING ABOUT ADVANCED BREAK-IN for that RB you get down
the road.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2799
Insights by: Defiant Spaz
______________________________________________

Here's a thread that was supposed to be made a "sticky" HOW TO POST PICS.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2396
Made possible by: HopaLong / Assisted by: Site Jester
______________________________________________

VIDS
Getting too much info? Take a load off and watch this. Crash'es wheelie Ride vids.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEJLtBmUsbg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fj8QUaIjGBU
Provided by: Crash
______________________________________________

Want to learn more about Half Tank Lean? This thread got into it pretty deep and has plenty of
information for your reading pleasure.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2723
______________________________________________

VIDS
OS 30vg Savage drag race
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Er5iKZt_UU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOITC0hjT30
Posted by Crash
______________________________________________

Need some measurement Conversions? Here's a Measurement Conversion Chart site.
http://www.onlineconversion.com/length_common.htm
Posted by savageX
______________________________________________

Diff Rebuilding Vid with text and pics link in the thread.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4LF4r6xvdU
Vid posted by: Site Jester and Text posted by: Crash
______________________________________________

Get those tires off the right way with CLEAN TIRE REMOVAL
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2905
Submited by: Doobeewha
______________________________________________

VIDS
And here's some with an STS DM30RB Mill -killer power stuff.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvQc3TnpirM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpsbvmLOfTc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GGKx7dJpD8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-WOgYz168c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpK2r7QBYQk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DdDEImzkIM
Provided by Defiant Spaz
______________________________________________

Here's a vid on setting the propper Spur Gear meshe. A must have.
http://www.hpiracing.com/movies/gearmesh_101.wmv
Posted by: Site Jester
______________________________________________

This is a compilation of manual links that has answers to questions, NOW. Another must have.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2005
Compiled by: Megabyteme
______________________________________________

Steve Pond's artical telling us ALL ABOUT CARBS.
Posted by: Site Jester
http://web.archive.org/web/20010303074532/http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/carburetor.asp
______________________________________________

Don't let dents in your pipe rob you of proformance. FIX PIPE DENTS
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2665
Submited by: Doobeewha
______________________________________________

Here's some great insights from two nitro guru's, John Adams and Steve Pond.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1726
Poste by: SJ
______________________________________________

Intercangable parts for Savage X to Savage.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2995
Provided by: Crash
______________________________________________

Fun reading with "The Twelve Step Program For Parked Nitro Syndrome" thread.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=786
Provided by: Chunky Monkey
______________________________________________
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[Jeremy]

Was planning on doing something like this but didn't quite find the time thanks doob

[Crash]

Im a doobee newbie.....
good work Doobee

[DOOBEEWHA]

-
I thought we all could use some links in one thread like this...
This way, we could re-dirrect a newbie to a butt load of resources in
one swoop.
It saves alot of effort in having to re-explain this stuff, over and over.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*Here's some thought's for that newbie that might be having a rough time with it.
Hang in there, Savster,... Maybe this might make you ponder the Heart and Soul...

===============JUST SOME WORDS FOR A NEWBiE===================


There's one thing I believe that rings true in the lessons of life...

"Trial and error is the foundation to knowing the difference."


Our very first mill is the lesson here...

It WILL recieve all of the wierdest tests of tourture and beatings we can give it.

Why???....Because we don't know any better,... Thats why!!!lol

I would love to think that my first k4.6 got all the TLC and patients, that one
could deliver.

Yet, the fact of the matter is,...

We tend to forget the trauma's that our first mill has to go through, as we learn
the ropes of NITRO.

We sure as hell arn't gonna admit to the world that "we roasted our engine"
without someone that knows better, point out the fact that we
"sure as hell did!!!"lol :whip:


If I had been more careful and wise about my needle settings, type of fuels,
which plugs to use, knew about the half tank lean issue, sealed the engine propperly,
knew the propper break-in procedures, had no problems with the ****'in slipper,
setting the mesh propperly, ect, ect, ect...


I wouldn't have learned a dang thing!


We need to honnor are very first "mill of shame" as a testiment to the
knowledge we so desperately sought after...


Durring the life of that very first piston,.. It tried, and tried, and it tired to deliver.
This,.. Until it a crapped out on us as it fried and died as we cried a deep river...

It fried by our own hand, in most cases... Go fig.:dunno:

Now,.. Say you fry your second mill...
Well guess what there, little buddy?...

YOUR GONNA HAVE SOME EXPLAINING TO DO, MISTER ! ! ! lol


=================== OK,.. I'M DONE NOW =====================
-

[4x4]

cool thread doob. great for newbies!
4x4

[DOOBEEWHA]

Thanks Sj, Crash and 4X4.

There's actually alot of stuff here thats for advanced nitro ,also. Be sure to know what I mean.

Defiant Spaz speaks of a rigorous break-in for a STS DM30RB.

There's also Steve Pond's thoughts on the subject and more.

CHECK IT OUT, BUDS......
I'll bet you'll learn something new, each time you do.

[NSO]

I can already tell I'll be visiting this thread time and time again.......thx Doob

[savagecre]

WOW DOOBEEWHA what a killer job
I think your doing a fantastic service for HPISF.

That will help the newbies for sure..:10: :10: :10:

[DOOBEEWHA]

Thanks NSO, and SAVAGECRE.... Your support and vote of convidence
makes it all worth the effort. Thanks guys.

[samisavage]

Kudos for doobeewha great Idea.

[Defiantspaz]

Doob, five stars! All you need now is the really forgotten about stuff, like air cleaner maintainence, setting done bone lash, setting the servo saver tension. Basically all of the stuff that most newbs will forget to do.

I'll add so info for ya, ARO = After Run Oil and it is a nitro newb/bashers/racer's best friend. You should always run ARO through your mill after you run it, no matter how long you ran it for. The Nitro fuels are very corosive and will atract moisture to the inside of your mill. The ARO helps to displace the nitor fuel to prevent rust and lubricate the piston, sleave and crank for the next start up.

[DOOBEEWHA]

Thank you guys again, Samisavage, Defiantspaz...

Thats what this threads is all about, buds.
Yo, DS...I've already posted a request for HPI savage 25 to add your ARO definition to his list with a credit too you for submitting it.

As you can see, I've got the ball rolling. I would like to see all of the members here, post there newbie related advice, right here on this thread.

So please... fill in the blanks on you observation of whats needed here. DS,...All of you.

Side Note: DS,... I've just sent you rep points for some other posts you've subitted. Your a great help here, DS.

[ShiftPoint]

Awesome thread!!! Love the videos, oh my wallet is starting to hurt...


John

[DOOBEEWHA]

And here's the man that inspired this thread to begin with...
Thanks WISTER...And again, Glad to have ya with us, here at hpiisf.

[DOOBEEWHA]

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============= updated 08-11-07 =============

[Shaun]

wow doob great job on finding all that info! im not a total newbie but theres info there for beginners to pros lol :10:

[Shaun]

i really could have used that when i first joined, maybe i wouldnt have asked dumb questions in the wrong forums!! ha ha! again thanks for the help its good to know that theres a place u can go and find the tips and info u need to make this hobby as fun as its meant to be!!

[DOOBEEWHA]

Glad I could help, SAVAGESHAUN.

There is something for everybody in these links like you say.

I sure wished I had It when I started in nitro myself.
The links will be updated periodically.

[DOOBEEWHA]

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================== updated 08-15-07 ===================

[HPI_Savage25]

lol my very first mill is still running........as far as I know...............it ran when I took it out and I put ARO in it..............

[DOOBEEWHA]

Thats nice... How much fuel you run through it?

[-SaVaGe X-]

:10::10::10:nice job doob!!!! i can see myself comin to this thread in the future:10::10::10:

[DOOBEEWHA]

Thankx, Savage X
I think I will be coming back to this thread myself.

[ShiftPoint]

Hi,

Everybodys back home things are back to normal around here I can start catching up (trying to anyway).

@Doobeewha- I noticed in the first post of this thread the link to abrieviations is broken. (the link below

First off, lets get you aware of the terms, definitions, and abrieviations to
Nitro Talk.
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums...ead.php?t=3001
Submited and and periodically updated by: HPI Savage 25
_____________________________________________:yell owhack:


I do have a question, Ok My truck is running great, in the manual it says not to go above 250 degree's, mine gets up in the 270's from time to time when I check, if I make it more rich it does not seem to run as good. I am getting a nice puff og blue smoke when I gas it. I remember reading in here not to let it go over 300 degrees, which is correct 250 or 300? (I am guessing 250 is on the safe side) I guess if I burn it up it will be a good exscuse to get me one of those new mill's like Ive been reading about.


I really like the way it is running now, it does wheelys like crazy, in fact if I am not areful it will flip itself end over end, I guess a wheely bar is not a bad thing. Is there a way to know for sure if you have it tuned correctly?

Speaking about mills, I saw a .46 that comes in some kind of a kit for savage, I think it was truckzilla, can that size motor be installed with changing the truck too much? I doubt I will get one but boy that has to be a huge motor. Anyone done this? I saw another one where it is a conversion to put 2 mills on a savage, I am still having a time keeping the one I have on all 4 wheels, and loving it.

Thanks

John

[Shaun]

New Era Models Has The .46 Kit And The Kit To Install 2 Engines In Your Savage! Check Them Out At New Era Models.com

[DOOBEEWHA]

-

Hello, john.
Thanks for bringing the link issue to my attention.

That's wierd also because I remember it working in the past. Anyhow... I'll get back to some of these Q's.
Yes ... 250 or below is safer for your current mill.

Make sure you've cut out a golfball sized hole in the bodies windshield on the passenger side of the truck.
These mills need air flow to maintain a cooler running temp.

All big block mills, .21 thru .32 will fit in the Savage. The thing to be aware of is the exhaust port location.
The k4.6 is a rear port design. Carb's dirrection may need to be re-adjusted. (fuel inlet banjo fitting)

Keeping the rear port design is convenient for quick install time. Bare in mind that using the HPI CB on
different mills may lead to a need for CB shims, ect.

You can also run different mills with a different port location, but you'll need to setup the truck to
accommidate the different header and pipe position.

-

[DOOBEEWHA]

The Abbriev. and Definitions Link has been replaced with this one.

http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2295

Thanks again Wister for letting my know about it.

[rex_hvn]

thanx doob ive bin looking for all of this kind of thing but i noticed you have 2 different types of break in methods what would you reccomend for a k4.6 b coz like you said i just roasted by motor after having it for only around 1-2 weeks

thanx doob

[DOOBEEWHA]

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Hey, Rex_hvn.
I would reccommend that you try this method for break-in and read this thread.

http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php

And this thread's about someone that has the same motor as you and asked
alot of good questions. There are instructions on what to do when doing the break-in.

http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2870&page=2

Just follow the the threads dirrections and take notes for reminders, if you need.

The main trick in not frying your motor is to never let it get too lean.
You do this by keeping the temps in the range of propper opperation.

For the K4.6,... 215 - 240 degrees. Try not to exceed 250.
NEVER let the motor get above 275 degrees. Pick up a temp gun.($25 - $35)
I base that comment on what happened to my piston skirt.(pics in my gallery)

Also check out the HPI Tuning Vids in the link's section on this thread.
Watch them a hundred times if you can. Well... OK..twenty times then.lol
I've watched them alot of times and still get reminded of things that slip the mind.

All of your questions can never be answered, overnight.

Just pick up as much of this stuff as you can and take your time in learnning
good info from reliable sources.

-

[ShiftPoint]

Hi,
Thanks for fixing the link!!

I have a question. I finally dared to start working on my truck, I bought a 3 speed transmission and a reverse module, I am to the point to remove the TVP and I have every screw out except for 2 screws I cannot budge, no matter what I try, I guess it is because of the arthritis, I got around the other tight screws by using a ratchet and using a socket that would hold a phillips bit. But on these last 2 screws it just wont do. any ideas or techniques for removing tough Phillips head screws? I already sprayed them with WD-40.

I wish I would have bought the kit versiojn so badly now, thing is I really wanted the roto start because I will have a hard time with the pullstart I think. I bought a set of stainless steel screws and quite a few other "hop up's" I think they are called, (even though I was warned against it am already seeing how ALU will bend where the plastic will have to actually break. I didget some new TVP's Integy has some 6mm ones I bought) I am thinking about using the good old dremmel to cut the hads off of these two screws and replacing them with the stainless ones, I read somewhere it is a good idea to use thread lock on every screw anyway.

Thanks alot,

John

[HPI_Savage25]

If the screw is going into metal, thread lock it. I do not know how many spur gears I went through because I didn't give the thread lock enough time to dry of didn't use any, note I am still going through them but I make sure everything it TIGHT and if it does go out, then I know something else is wrong.

[ShiftPoint]

Hi,

Thanks, I got some of the hpi threadlock with the 3 speed transmission, and I have a couple bottles of locktite thread lock, the locktite is a lot thinner than the hpi stuff I guess it will work ok. I am sure I had read about how imporntant threadlock is on these machines in this forum.


I really hate to do it but I am going to have to dremmel off these 2 screws, they are just way to tight, I havent had a problem with any other screw on this truck till now. I think the factory justr over tightened them, I have a good bit and used a ratchet wrench and it is siping in the slot so it just has to be too tight for the scew head. I have always hated phillips head screws!!! the stainless ones are all allen head, I think that will be better. I have tried heat and cold with no luck either, I figured if I heated and cooled it a couple times it might expand and contract enough to loosen it a bit but no luck.

I used to have a tool that you put a bit in then put it on the screw and struck it with a hammer and the hammer strike would turn the tool just a little, it worked great but I cannot find it, I guess someone borrowed it one too many times, you know how that goes... Unless someone comes up with something I havent tried in the next 30 min's I will get the dremmel out.

Thanks

John

[DOOBEEWHA]

Hello, John.
I would imagaine that the bolts with the philips heads your talking about are the ones that go
on the ends of the TVP's or the aluminum motor plate braces.

Here's where a vise or one of them Black & Decker Work Mate benches can come in handy.
If you can find a way to seccure the truck, You might be able to use a drill to back them out.

But all things considered, the the best and cheapest way to get those pesky bolts loose is a
regular set of linemen pliars.

They have a flat and beefy square nose for biting into whatever you grab with them.
Just grip the bolt head from the side as you would place a cresent wrench. Get a good bite on
the bolt head and turn the head counter-clockwise to break it loose.

You may want to consider replacing any of the bolts that are issues for you with some hex
headed bolts.
It may be a chalenge to find some with the right threading, but you can always re-tap the the
threads to the size of the hex bolts you can get.
Hope that helps, John.

[DOOBEEWHA]

Hey john.
I read and responded to your first post before reading the second post.lol

You might try just demelling the bolts to have a flat head slot. Just a thought.

Remember that thread-lock is great for holding a bolt snug from vibration and Lock-Tite is good for locking the bolt for a more perminent hold on the bolt.

Also keep in mind that when using a lock-tite or a thread- lock, you can heat the head of the bolt to melt the locking compound before removal.

A soldering Gun works great if you don't want to use a bic lighter

[ShiftPoint]

Hi,

I did finally get hose but I had to dremmel them off, the other side came out well the first one came out with no problem the second one I was abl to get a good enough regular head slot in it to get it out with a regular screw driver. Oh you are correct, It was those 2 screws :)

I have the truck all the way apart, Now all I have to do is get it back together, I bought a bunch of hop-uopps for it, I think it will look great, but now even before I have it together I can see what you guys are talking about, I think plastic is the best toobecause of the weigt, I guess I will probably build this truck up for a show type trucjk that I will run, but I will most likely buy a SS kit sometime in the future (after I get my card paied off in a few months) so I have a truck for jumping and such, I think by the time you buy all the upgraded parts that are in the SS kit, it is cheaper in the long run to get a kit than to upgrade all those little parts. I am glad I did it just because I learned a lot about how the truck goes together and works (what is what) and I will not be afraid to mess it up anymore. I was really afraid to take it apart at first.

I guess I shouldn't speak too soon I dont have it back together yet :) (really for me I think it will be easier to put back together than it was to take it apart, I am following the instructions for the SS manual. I will know soon enough!

thanks fo the help,

John

[DOOBEEWHA]

No problem, Wister. You'll do fine...

I hope you don't run in to any problems getting the the bolt replacements to your liking.
Good Luck with that one.
By the way... WHERE THE PICS? lol.

[ShiftPoint]

No problem, Wister. You'll do fine...

I hope you don't run in to any problems getting the the bolt replacements to your liking.
Good Luck with that one.
By the way... WHERE THE PICS? lol.

Oh, I did buy a stainless screw set for it, all allen (hex) heads!! (havent used many so for because I am not sure which goes where??

I will post some pic's when I am finished (if I finish) :)

John

[ShiftPoint]

Hi,

I have a question. I don't know much about servos, is it ok to use the old steering servo for the reverse module servo? I bought one of the metal hitec servos you recommended for steering.

I bought a JR sport for the reverse but I read somewhere in the forum that they aren't very good, plus it looks smaller than the steering servo.

thanks,

John

[DOOBEEWHA]

Yea... that fine, John.

In fact, the throttle and reverse servo do not require a very strong servo strength compared to the steering servo.
1.) As long as you have the Hitech 645MG for a steering servo that was metioned in your original thread, you should be fine.

2.) Use the weakest servo on the reverse modual.

3.) The second to strongest (oringinal steering servo) servo should be for your throttle/brake servo.

[DOOBEEWHA]

-
Note:
In general, Servo's are rated in the amount of ounces they can move and
how fast they can move them.

I don't have the Hitec645MG box in front of me but if memory serves me
correctly, the 645MG is rated around 133oz. @ 24/20 ms.(milliseconds)

This is based on a variance of the battery packs voltage curve.

A fully peak charged Hump pack on the other hand can make those numbers
rise significantly while the hump pack is peaked.

The Savage requires a minimum of a 60 oz. servo to opperate at a level
that can turn the stock tires.

That's bare minimum IMO.

Anyway... As you can imagine, the 133 oz. is a perfect upgrade for healthy
opperation. And the 645MG will still do pretty well turning some bigger tires
you might get down the road.

Now you can probably see the logic behind my earlier questions to you about
changing the pack voltage from 6v to 7.2v in the batt compartment. This would
get a stronger level of headroom voltage.
-

[DOOBEEWHA]

By the way, John...
You can, at any time, get yourself a roto start kit which includes a roto back plate and the roto starter device.
They run about $30-$40 and installs very easily on your engine.
I can relate to you about the pull start issue you face.

[Shaun]

actually the hitec servo your talking about actually has 133 oz with a hump pack that is. yep i just double checked its rated at 106oz@4.8v and 133oz@6v wasnt budding in doob but it just so happens that i have been looking at them recently and remembered the specs!

[DOOBEEWHA]

Not a problem, Shaun.

I stated that I hadn't looked at the box in refference anyway.
I just wanted john to see the the rating system that's used on servo's

Here's the servo: http://www.hitecrcd.com/servos/show?name=HS-645MG

[Shaun]

Aaaah Ok! Sorry About That!

[DOOBEEWHA]

-


================================================= Updated 08-28-07 ==================================================



-

[ShiftPoint]

Hi,

Thanks for all the info, Yes I see why it would be good to up[ the voltage, I am 99% sure the servos could take it but not sure about the RX.

What I will do, when I get a new radio and rx's, I will try to leave my old rx and the cheapo JR servo run at 7.4 volts through a few charges and see if it hurts it. it would be nice to use a lipo , I did convert the cheap radio tx to lipo, it works great. those lipos keep the voltage up, in fact you cant let them discharge very much, if you let the cells go below like 3.5v's they can be ruined, they are only like 4.20v's at full charge (with no load, under load theyare, well 7.4v / 2 = 3.7v), so you can se the advantage is they are at a high voltage during the whole charge. I have accidently let a pack or 2 run down very low they have always come back for me , lots of chargers have a repair function (just a very low current charge).

Oh, I have a question, I am already looking for the kit's I found 2 different HPI Savage SS 4.6 kits, one says 4.6 one says K4.6, is there really a difference, I have never seen one (what looks to be the nicer one) and it is out of stock and discontinued where I did find it.

here is the links, from the same store with different stock numbers, I do see one looks like oit has different wheels, if that is the only difference, then no big deal.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMYA2&P=3

here is the , i think, nicer one,

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJUP1&P=7

I already know the "upgraded one I just built (bulding) is not going to preform near as good as the stock one, it is, or at least doesent feel that much heavier than the stock one, but I am sure it is, besides that I am sure I will not try as much with it as with the stock one. Just thinking about the skid plates, I am sure the ALU ones will bend, where the plastic ones will bend but then flex back, has to be the same with everything elsw. I am hooked anyway, especialy now that I know I can take one apart and get it back together.

Oh, I will be needing a roto start too for sure... please let me know where, it will be a while anyway,

Thanks,

John

[ShiftPoint]

I see now, one is a "Savage SS 4.6", the other is a "savage X SS 4.6" I guess the Savage X is ewer than the Savage, I guess for parts compatability I should get the Savage X SS?

Thanks,

John

[Shaun]

rob on ebay has the roto start i think its $29.25! look up nitronutzz on ebay, great products and robs a great guy!

[DOOBEEWHA]

Hi,

Thanks for all the info, Yes I see why it would be good to up[ the voltage, I am 99% sure the servos could take it but not sure about the RX.

What I will do, when I get a new radio and rx's, I will try to leave my old rx and the cheapo JR servo run at 7.4 volts through a few charges and see if it hurts it. it would be nice to use a lipo , I did convert the cheap radio tx to lipo, it works great. those lipos keep the voltage up, in fact you cant let them discharge very much, if you let the cells go below like 3.5v's they can be ruined, they are only like 4.20v's at full charge (with no load, under load theyare, well 7.4v / 2 = 3.7v), so you can se the advantage is they are at a high voltage during the whole charge. I have accidently let a pack or 2 run down very low they have always come back for me , lots of chargers have a repair function (just a very low current charge).

Oh, I have a question, I am already looking for the kit's I found 2 different HPI Savage SS 4.6 kits, one says 4.6 one says K4.6, is there really a difference, I have never seen one (what looks to be the nicer one) and it is out of stock and discontinued where I did find it.

here is the links, from the same store with different stock numbers, I do see one looks like oit has different wheels, if that is the only difference, then no big deal.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMYA2&P=3

here is the , i think, nicer one,

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJUP1&P=7

I already know the "upgraded one I just built (bulding) is not going to preform near as good as the stock one, it is, or at least doesent feel that much heavier than the stock one, but I am sure it is, besides that I am sure I will not try as much with it as with the stock one. Just thinking about the skid plates, I am sure the ALU ones will bend, where the plastic ones will bend but then flex back, has to be the same with everything elsw. I am hooked anyway, especialy now that I know I can take one apart and get it back together.

Oh, I will be needing a roto start too for sure... please let me know where, it will be a while anyway,

Thanks,

John
Hey john.
I'm really not that versed in the area of the X, Xss, or xss kit versions. I have the ss kit and bought it with
knowing it didn't come with a radio system. I have the k4.6.

The F4.6 is a sightly different motor that is supposed to deliver the HP at a lower rpm compared to the k4.6.
As much as HPI says they've been listenning and inovating the savage to be a better truck, they still manage
to take away other features that should be left alone.

When you consider the fact that a great deal of the hop up factor revolves around a bigger, better, faster,
motor which we we all tend to drool on, the details of the hpi engines tend to take a back seat, at some point.

At any rate, I feel the K4.6 is a solid enough start in the nitro game I would get some gallons through your
current truck engine before I would jump into a new truck, personally.

Although this desission is yours to make, knowing your truck inside and out before getting into a other truck
this early is probably the best thing.

What ever you do... I would say to avoid getting a truck with a radio system. The X version comes with a two
channel system that's limited in use. It forces you to consider the reverse modual mixer which sux IMO.

This opens the door for a new thread so I'm not going there for now.

The X tvp's boast a stronger TVP set with the X brace pattern at where there was a weak spot in the prior
version design. It also has a lower CG placement by about 5mm at the tranny and engine plate, I believe.

There's also some improvements in the tranny's accesssabillity, along with a different Spur gear and reverse
modual application. There's probably other details I've overlooked, but thats the gist of it, IMO.

Do some research to know the real details and ask others here about any specific questions that come up in
this area. You can now start posting threads about these specific questions.

Just try to remeber to start the threads in the appropreiate forum section heading.

The sevro's that you've got now will work fine with any Analog TX/RX combination.
I run the JR XS3 pro w/ RS310 rx's.

-

[ShiftPoint]

Hi,

Thanks for the info, I did order a new truck, the X version. the ones with the hop up's is just way too heavy, I cannot even get it to pop a wheelie, well, it will lift the front wheels a couple inches but there is a big difference in acceleration. The Shocks aren’t strong enough to hold it up even, I did buy that Integy spring set, even the stiffest springs won’t do, it does handle better (cause it sits lower and is heavier) so it doesn’t tip as easy, but it is just no fun unless you like going in circles.


Oh, BTW, I did know most of the differences between the X ver and other, I just did not notice that there was no “X” in the other kit, also I didn’t know the Savage non X version came with a 4.6 motor, I have been reading a lot about these trucks, now it is time for the learning that comes from experience which is where the real knowledge comes from.

I do have some questions, I should start a new thread for after I take some pictures of the hopuped truck I built, you said something that may make it unnecessary, so I will a couple of questions that may make it easier. I will make the thread anyway so I can post some pictures anyway. I think now I will keep the hopped up truck as it is for now, then later down the road maybe I will get a more powerful motors for it, i

Better I start a thread and post some pictures so you guys can see what I am talking about, I will take some pic’s post them and some comments on some of the parts I bought that are usless or other comments, be back later…

One more thing, on the radio, I think or at least what I am thinking about buying in the future is one of the 2.4Ghz models. for now I will just use the stock one that came with the truck, Oh, I love that hitec servo you recommended, man that thing is strong. I was worried about if it would be able to steer the heavy truck, but it works great. Thanks!

John

[DOOBEEWHA]

Ok john..
I look farward to seeing your pics and getting an idea of what's going on with the hopups.
And Good luck with the new thread's feedback.

lol.. Sometimes it's hit or miss. ya know...

There's alot of guys out here that have great knowledge in RC.
Just be deligent and focused on your questions and I'm sure it will bare some useful information for you.

It's also a great way to meet new buds, Wister.

Chat soon, bro

[savagecre]

lets keep the doobster alive guys you dont want him to think you have forgotten him do you?.....lol

[ShiftPoint]

Here's a really good webpage about tuning, Sami posted it in another thread for me but I thought this would be a good thread for it. It goes into plug's (how to read them) temperature, head shim's, humidity, barometric pressure temp guages, etc... I learned a lot by reading this page, it is a very good article for newbie's or anyone with a nitro to read.

Thanks for pointing that out to me Sami!!!!

John


http://www.rchobbies.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm

[samisavage]

No problem John. It's probably in here somewhere,But I found it quite a while ago and have it saved in my computer It's great and has alot of very helpful info I still look at it often.

[savagecre]

Just putin it up again

[Crash]

you still see the doobster?

[Jeremy]

He left us high and dry...

[savagecre]

Yes I still see him he's doin fine I tried to get him on last week friday when he was over but well he just didnt get on...He would say" HI to all"

SJ did you draw that Jester? Thats really cool anyway later guys got to go Bowling. LOL its pretty fun havent done it in a long whil and now I'm on a leage

[Jeremy]

nope moto did

[savagecre]

He left us high and dry...

HIGH AND DRY?????
HIGH AND DRY?????

That's how I leave my woman.... High and dry....

DOOBEEWHA

[Jeremy]

LOL !!!! Whats up dude, I wont commenet on how I leave my women ....... lol

[savagecre]

LOL !!!! Whats up dude, I wont commenet on how I leave my women ....... lol

Not much, bud...

And there I go again with the mouth...
Sorry to all the lil' Savster's that really don't need to read that personal claim...

But since were on the subject, you've got two vibrators, SJ...

LOL...
I think we can invision how you leave your women.

DOOBEEWHA