RC noob, ready to jump in...

[Stugatz]

Hi everybody!

Just found the forum about an hour ago, spent some time talking in the chat area waiting for my account to activate so that I could grace you all with this: My first post!

Anyway, I'm looking to make a serious jump into RC soon, I've been a fan of the hobby for a long time, but never owned any nitros, or high end electrics, just Radio Shack stuff, but I've been watching videos of the Savage X rallying around all day at work, and I think I'd love to get my hands on one, but I've got some questions first.

My truck of choice from what I've read so far is the Savage X SS kit, its big, about as beefy as they come in kits without going really extreme, all that good stuff, plus it looks awesome, and I cant think of any reason NOT to get one as my first nitro. Yeah, I realize this is going to get expensive, but I've gotten somewhat used to expensive hobbies, and realized that the best way to get in is to do it right the first time.

So basically the advice I'm looking for right now is what else should I get to outfit my SS with, servos, radio, fuel, starter, killswitch, whatever? Any warnings I should know going in. This is maybe the wrong place to ask, but should I consider something other than the Savage? I dont even really know how much extra stuff in addition to the kit I need to get rolling, but you guys do, so tell me!

Thanks in advance for the help, from what I've seen by poking around so far and chatting in the chat box, this forum alone makes it worth gettin' myself a Savage!

[samisavage]

Savages rule if your into just bashing, Revos Kick racing on a track, but all around I'll stick with my savages. Way tougher (IMO) than any traxxus. If your gonna jump in the savage is a great choice (IMO) It is my first nitro and I love it. I don't race much as I can't seem to stay on the track but I've been told that has nothing to do with truck. Haven't figured what they"re refering to though. Personally I think the Tracks not Mean enough to hold a savage. "Track? Savage don't need no stinkin track" Best of luck to ya in your purchase, And YES the guys here are awsome should be able to answer all you q,s and then some.

[Stugatz]

Thanks for the reply, sounds like pretty much what I was expecting, I'm not particularly into racing, but bashing looks fun, braffing, rallying, whatever you call it, looks like the Savage can handle it :) I really cant wait to get one, and I get paid soon, so hopefully it wont be long!

Edit: Just saw that you're a fellow Washingtonian! You find plenty of spots to let the Savage loose around here? I've got a few spots scoped out over the past few days, but any leads on spots would be cool. Thanks again!

[Jeremy]

Hey your from washington also !!!! thats cool where at ??????

[Stugatz]

Im out in Duvall, between Carnation and Monroe and Woodinville and Redmond basically. Small little cow town, overrun by Microshaft yuppies.

[Fx]

I'll tell you what I know and others can fill in, here we go!

To have a ready to run setup assuming your buying the X SS kit are these,

RADIO EQUIPMENT - You need 2 servos I would recommend getting high torque servos right off the bat to avoid upgrading then later. Hitec makes nice ones but there are others. As for a receiver I recommend getting a stock savage receiver on eBay, there cheap they work stick with it. As for a transmitter A.K.A a radio, same as the receiver I would go stock for the same reasons. I would also get a battery hump pack ask about them at the shop see what they have.

FUEL - I use Dynamite Blue Thunder fuel, I like it. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND GETTING 20% NITRO. I would also get a fuel bottle, it's worth every penny.

GLOW STARTER - You will need a glow starter, I would recommend getting a rechargeable one as opposed to on that uses AA's.

Turn on your radio and then your truck, then basically you fill the tank put the glow starter on and pull the chord with your finger covering the exhaust. Pull the chord until the fuel line(going to the engine) is full of fuel. NO AIR BUBBLES! The remove you finger and pull the chord it should start up. MAKE SURE YOUR TRUCKS WHEELS ARE OFF THE GROUND SO IT DOESN'T TAKE OFF. From there break it in like the manual says. I would say run 4-6 tanks through it before going full throttle but some may disagree.

Once you build it make a new thread well help you out with running your truck and tuning. For now just build it right meaning use thread lock on any screws that are metal to metal. Try not to strip anything and above all HAVE FUN.

Hope this helps, I will update if I think of more things.
FX

[Jeremy]

lol How come one lives right bye me waaaaaaa

[Stugatz]

Thanks FX, sounds like good advice, I'm trying to make sure I get things as right as I can the first time around, I would hate to buy some servos, then find out a month later that I got crappy ones and I have to buy new ones again. Once I get the kit, I'll see if I can post some pics as I build, and I would guess that I'll have some questions as I go. I want to build it as fast as I can (while still doing it right) so I can rally the beast ASAP!

Sorry runoverbysavage, but I just cant stand that aroma, maybe once I get rolling though we should have a Washingtonian Savage-off! Two of the guys I work with have been talking about getting trucks too, and once they see mine in action, I'm pretty sure they'll end up with Savages, so we could have a bunch of them together I'm sure!

[Fx]

Once I get the kit, I'll see if I can post some pics as I build, and I would guess that I'll have some questions as I go. I want to build it as fast as I can (while still doing it right) so I can rally the beast ASAP!
Sounds like a plan I'll be looking forward to seeing it and helping you if need be.

[samisavage]

Hey you' ll want the futaba tf 4 transmitter if you can find one. It's what can with the 25's Most I see on ebay are the tf 3 radios from the savage x If you get one of those you'll need to use the mixer for the reverse. I've heard they don't work all that well but they seem a good idea to me as there's no chance of granadeing the reverse modual like with the radio with the switch. NOT that I've EVER done that or anything. Washington savages should unite. and destroy the land.

[samisavage]

Yes I know that area well up there. you should be able to find plenty bashing spots as you being more rural like. And RO sorry but your luck. But I'm not as far from you as you think. Remember, I've been watching you?

[samisavage]

Is there somewhere on the eastside that isn't overrun by microsoft yuppies?

[Stugatz]

Nah, the eastside is a lost cause, i just really hope that I annoy all my neighbors with the Savage's massive whine, I was here first and I still have my big backyard, fark all ya'all yuppies!

[samisavage]

I'll second that!! I'm from Alaska origanally AN Yes I gots a bito redneck in me..

[gzus11]

first off find your local hobby shop and have a chat with the guy they will be the most help to you, and any local clubs ho along see the cars run and ask questions face to face with the people.

i would suggest getting a decent radio gear first off rather than the stock.
stock is a good radio dont get me wrong, but you will be upgrading at some point. I use the spektrum dx3, it has all functions i need but tx looks cheap plastic compared to futaba stuff. you will hear lots about radio gear go with one you like with the functions you need.

servo End Point Adjustment is essential (i think) to set your truck up well and some decent strong servos, eg hitec metal geared (tower pro mg995 in my case)on the steering.

finally on any savage a throttle mod usually helps increase brake performance. poly and i have the most effective mod using stock parts and five mins work (PM i can give you some more info and pics if needed.)

and good luck when you get it enjoy it.


PS Diff upgrade saves alot of hassle, and make sure you shim them correctly to prolong the life of your gears.

[polystyrene]

my advice, dont get a savage. i know its not the best advice from a savage forum but there are much better monster trucks out there. i made the mistake of buying a savage for my first nitro monster truck and looking back i really wish i hadnt.

best 2 monster trucks at the moment are probably the revo 3.3 and the team losi lst2, both handle alot better than the savage, the lst2 is much tougher and both are alot easier to work on than the savage (which is a total pain to work on).

if you wana get it right first time, take the advice given, get some half decent radio gear, good metal geared servo's etc but do alot of research into the truck you want and the spares and hop-ups available.

[Fx]

The new Savage X SS design makes it much easier to work on. What parts are hard to work on poly?

[gzus11]

centre gear box
diff caings
spur gear
pull starter
servos

most things require something else to be removed first.
its a pain but it gets easier the more times things need worked on.

savage is a good truck, but not a racer. good for bashing and having fun, they will only compete against other savages. the revo is a great race machine and the lst is very strong but rear wishbone tends to break on occasion.

[polystyrene]

the whole savage is not an easy truck to work on. i know they updated some parts on the xss but its still not nearly as easy to work on as any other truck.

especially when you trackside and have 10minutes to your next race and need to replace something. especially a spur gear! you basically have to remove the engine to do this.

just my opionion guys, but the general consensus is that the revo is the better racer and the lst2 is the better basher truck

[Fx]

the whole savage is not an easy truck to work on. i know they updated some parts on the xss but its still not nearly as easy to work on as any other truck.

especially when you trackside and have 10minutes to your next race and need to replace something. especially a spur gear! you basically have to remove the engine to do this.

just my opionion guys, but the general consensus is that the revo is the better racer and the lst2 is the better basher truck

You don't have to remove any thing to change a spur I do it all the time it's easy. I find it fun working on my savage.

[polystyrene]

not saying its not fun, just saying if you have to replace anything in a hurry it becomes very stressful. other trucks are alot easier due to design

[Stugatz]

Thanks for all the replies guys! Sounds like I should definitely try to make sure I get some nice high torque metal geared servos to outfit my Savage with. Radio I'm still up in the air, I have a friend at work who was into RC nitros a few years back and he has recommended the JR XS Series transmitter, but given the varied opinions I'm getting, I probably wont know what erceiver I'm going to get until after I've gotten it. Given that I'm getting a kit and not an rtr, I might just wait until after Im done building to get the radio though and do my research a bit more. Plus the guy with the JR might let me borrow his XS3 pro temporarilly, all his cars are out of commission right now anyway.

One other question that popped into my mind, if I'm at the shop, any special tools I should look into getting that would make the build easier/faster, better long term? I know someone mentioned loctite for the metal to metal screws, will I need to worry about sanding or anything? Also, should I try to get a set of stainless steel body screws or anything?

Thanks again, I cant wait to get rolling with this stuff!

[Fx]

Thanks for all the replies guys! Sounds like I should definitely try to make sure I get some nice high torque metal geared servos to outfit my Savage with. Radio I'm still up in the air, I have a friend at work who was into RC nitros a few years back and he has recommended the JR XS Series transmitter, but given the varied opinions I'm getting, I probably wont know what erceiver I'm going to get until after I've gotten it. Given that I'm getting a kit and not an rtr, I might just wait until after Im done building to get the radio though and do my research a bit more. Plus the guy with the JR might let me borrow his XS3 pro temporarilly, all his cars are out of commission right now anyway.

One other question that popped into my mind, if I'm at the shop, any special tools I should look into getting that would make the build easier/faster, better long term? I know someone mentioned loctite for the metal to metal screws, will I need to worry about sanding or anything? Also, should I try to get a set of stainless steel body screws or anything?

Thanks again, I cant wait to get rolling with this stuff!
A piston lock is a good thing to have, OFNA makes a nice one. Other than that just your standard around the house tools. As for screws I would use the stock screws for now as they are easy to replace later if need be.

[polystyrene]

if you want to change the screws get a screw set which has hex heads. the savage seems to still be in the darks ages for screws and still uses cross heads. these will strips alot more easy and a good screw set is always handy for the spares.

[k0m0d067]

yes, but do they make any hex head screw kits that thread into the plastic? or just machine screws?

I will agree that spares are a must though...

[polystyrene]

je-spares (www.je-spares.co.uk) make stainless steel and hi-tensile screw kits. all hex head and screw into plastic.

the thread on them is the same as the thread on a metal screw, ie a closer thread, but this helps in the plastic as it give more grip from the screw to the plastic part

im using the hi-tensile kit on my revo, and gzus11 uses the stainless steel kit on his savage. both kits give you plenty of screws, probably enough to do 2 trucks

[Fx]

je-spares (www.je-spares.co.uk) make stainless steel and hi-tensile screw kits. all hex head and screw into plastic.

the thread on them is the same as the thread on a metal screw, ie a closer thread, but this helps in the plastic as it give more grip from the screw to the plastic part

im using the hi-tensile kit on my revo, and gzus11 uses the stainless steel kit on his savage. both kits give you plenty of screws, probably enough to do 2 trucks

link didn't work here it is, http://www.jespares.com/catalog/index.php

[gzus11]

machine screws are better for plastic as they do not do so much dmage to the material each you take them out. stainless hex head screws are nice as they will not rust but not essential. if you go hex bolts a good set of hex drivers are required

[Stugatz]

Woot, I jumped!

Just got back from the LHS, unfortunately that means I'm at my second job, so no box opening yet :( But I got the box! WHen I get home tonight, approx 5 hours, I'll be jumping into the real stuff. In the mean time, I got a crappy pic that I snapped with my phone cam, sorry to subject you all to my ugly mug, but I'm quite happy about it so far!

Along with the Savage X SS Kit, I got the Spektrum DX3 Radio Kit, came with 2 "high torque" servos, and 2 receivers! Not sure what to do with the second one yet, but I've got it anyway... The guy said it had a built in failsafe, which was a big plus for me, just less hassle of more things to buy separately. I'm sure I'll end up upgrading the servos eventually, but I've got something to get me running. Also got the loctite, and wheel glue, quart of Blue Thunder 20% fuel, fuel bottle, and I think that's it.

No glow plug starter yet, they didnt have any rechargeable ones in stock, but they'll be getting more on Thursday, so I'll be going back to get one of those. Also did not get the set of SS screws they had, I liked the sound of the High Tensile set from JE-Spares, but we'll see about that later.

Anyway, I really cant wait to get home and open the box and check out all this stuff!

[Fx]

Good choice, I forget to mention you will have to paint your own body. So you will need some paint. Other than that you should be good, have fun with it!

[samisavage]

Right on. Build it brake it in per directions and I'll see you out there. Lets bash. If rentons not to far for you, My buddies and I are tryiing for a session this weekend. nice open area to tune and learn, If your interested.

[HPI_Savage_06]

The new Savage X SS design makes it much easier to work on. What parts are hard to work on poly?

i sooo second that my brother has the savage 25 and i recently got the X SS kit and it was sooo much easier to work on...but lets not get off topic..gatz here are other things you might consider; getting "sidewinder fuel" i think its better because it comes with after run oil so you dont have to put after run oil after every run it kinda gets annyoning, of taking your plug out and removing the airfilter to put a couple of drops, also you might have to run your car for about 7 tanks thats how long it took me to break it in and play around w/ the high end needle so you can get your top speed, but this is after you break it in, after you breakit in you might consider of getting a wheelie bar.....cause after my break in point....i was doing wheelie on non-stop on command....it kinda got a annoying because i would punch it and it would flip on its back side so i decided to get one and it help but it didnt work cause once in a while ill get on my back side again, well thats all i can think of if i have more ill post it far ya

[Stugatz]

Hey guys, thanks for all the inspiration and advice!

I spent about 4 hours tonight building, time to go to sleep but I thought I'd share the final result so far. I dont think I've really hit any trouble yet, everything's been smooth so far. I've been taking pictures along the way, but no time to upload them now, have to go to sleep so I can keep working and getting paid to buy more stuff!

Oh, and it's snowing a little bit around here, with any luck, the schools will be cancelled and I wont have to go to work so I can sit here all day and finish 'er up!

See you guys later!

[samisavage]

Looking good noob, got pretty far all thats left is all the rest. keep plugging. snowed here last night too. started bout 9:00 didn't leave much though. keepon buildem, then break in, enjoy, repair, enjoy, repair...

[Fx]

I would highly recommend getting a Vemon 1200 hump pack, you will need a charger for it as well, I would recommend the Prophecy charger. BTW in the savage kit are the shocks already assembled if not I would suggest using 40 weight shock oil. Looks good.

[Stugatz]

FX: No, the shocks are not assembled in my SS kit, so I think Im going to tackle those tonight, if I get home in time, I think I might be able to get the thing running and rolling tonight, but we'll see. Right now I'm just going to stick the 4 AA batteries in for the receiver and servos, but when I go to the hobby shop on thursday when they get new stock in, i'll be getting a receiver pack, I'll check for that Venom 1200 one. Thanks again guys, back to work for me...

[JohnH]

it doesn't have to be venom. they are ok but any 5 cell pack. you need to get one that looks like a pyramid so it will fit in the battery box and 1200mah or higher.:nutshot:

[Fx]

it doesn't have to be venom. they are ok but any 5 cell pack. you need to get one that looks like a pyramid so it will fit in the battery box and 1200mah or higher.:nutshot:

I know it doesn't, I'm just recommending it because I have had the best luck with Venom.

[JohnH]

i know fx i was poking fun at you. it's about the only thing i have used from venom that worked.

[samisavage]

Hey newbie hows the build going? done yet? haven't seen much of you on here in the last few, Either to busy or just wailin on the new build. Planning a run to Renton sunday, let me know if you'll want to go.

[X25]

even if your fuel has after run in it you should still put AR in it when you are done runing the engine for the day. It is nice that the fuel has the extra oil in it but still need to use after run oil when you are done running for the day to prevent corr. rust and other harmfull thing to your engine. That dose not mean you have to use it after every tank if you are gonna run more then on tank just before you put it up for the day. Just my 2 cents ask some of the other guys i'm sure most will agree.