J1A1H XXL Torque Monster Buildup........

[J1A1H]

Ok, my build is coming together now... Ive decided to list everything i have bought for this truck so i remember exactly how much effort i have spent on this truck.
I couldnt have done this without the help of :NLMD:

The 1 picture i have when it arrived at my door.
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/howitcame.jpg

Complete List So Far:
Second Hand Savage Flux £500.00
It came with 6 Lipo Batteries 4x2s & 2x3s
Spare tranny
Hpi Dirt Bonz Wheels
Fibre Glass Shell in white
Ansmann GHZ Trans and Rx
Cheapo Charger
Power supply £35

Motor & Power
HYPERION G3VX 3s/6500mah/35c lipos £140
Neu Castle Creations 1520 1600kv Motor £120

Chassis Kit
GCM DB-17 Chassis Kit C$96
GCM Batt tray C$24
GCM Skid Plate C$23
GCM servo mounts x2 C$15

Rims & Tires
SPI Basher Wheels $115
Dirt Claws Tires £50
Proline tire inserts £10

Steering & Handling
HPI RSC suspension conversion kit £85
"Good Fake" aluminium BIg bores from HK (only for road use) £35
HPI XL Axle Extenders $15
Shock Springs (white) X8 $15.56
Ace DS 1015 Servo £60
Ansmann alu servo horn £10
HPI front and rear sway bar kit £25
Aluminium steering tie rod ends £11
Titanium turn buckles £15
GPM Steering Assembly £13
Shock Socks £7

Tranny, Gearing & Mechanical Brakes
Bullet Proof Diffs x2 $50
HPI HD 18-23t Drive Gear $11
HPI 39t high speed idler gear £25
HPI Light weight idler gear 29t £7
HPI Light weight drive gear 32t £7
17t pinion (Bashing & Jumps) £11
21t pinion (Grass and dirt surface) £11
25t pinion (Road use) £11
Ofna throttle mod £8
HPI Dual Fibre glass brake & Discs, piston, cam & hex £15

Bodies & Wing
White stock size fibreglass body Came with flux
Custom Silver Fibre glass body £75
Proline DesertRat body for slayer £30
Monster Energy Decals £10
PRC carbon wing mount £25
Hot bodies wing mount & screws £10
Traxxas carbon revo wing £10

Extra Stock parts & EXTRA BITS
Castle Link USB £13
Servo Y harness £2.39
Spider Gears x2 $6.70
Steering Bearings $8.45
Servo Saver $2.22
Diff gaskets $2.25
velcro straps x6 £10
Corrosion X for waterproofing £20
Diff Oil 30k & 50k £5
Car Stand £5
Adjustable Upper Arms £6
Savage X Arms £12
Shock oil 35wt x2 £2.75
Green Slime £3.50
Traxxas ESC mounting Plate £3.50
Alloy chassis bulk supports £6.00
HPI Gold Washers and nuts £9.00
Re enforced strapping tape for tires £2.00
Extra nuts and bolts for HPI £15
Rush Battery box £7.65
HPI Front and rear skid plates £6.35
8x wheel bearings £5
Extra suspension screws £5
Shrink Tubing £3
Fuel tubing 1m £1.50
Battery Foam £2

As the parts arrived i got very excited... took some pics and here they are before they were fitted....
Rims, Tires & Inserts
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00080.jpg

Comparison Between stock inserts and proline
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00081.jpg

Tire Weight Comparisons
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00064.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00063.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00062.jpg

Strapping my tires
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00068.jpg

Sway Bar kit
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00073.jpg

RSC Goodies
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00089.jpg

Stock fibreglass body vs XL Fibre glass body
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00093.jpg

Comparison of db-17 and stock tvps
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00060.jpg

Mounted some LEDs for a bit of fun when im bashing at the carpark at night
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00101.jpg

"Good Fake" Alu BB Shocks vs Stock Plastic Shocks
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00163.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00164.jpg


When i put the new motor in and get my batteries all soldered up with the deans... then ill be getting some vids up...

But in the mean time... some motor porn

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00172.jpg

Thanks again to all that have help me build the savage! All build up pics will come by the weekend

[fluxinator]

That looks like a sick build keep us posted =)

[Pope]

insain. Nice work.

[JoeGuam]

Oh Yah J1A1H. Awesome and check out that CF body too.

[frddyj]

the motor looks HUGE!

[Shaun]

i made a small correction on your list,you had called the dirt bonz tires a pro line product but they are actually HPI dirt bonz.. and your savy looks sweet i love the fiberglass bodies they look so cool....

[J1A1H]

Oh Yah J1A1H. Awesome and check out that CF body too.

Joe what CF Body are you talking about? or do you mean fibre glass????

Thanksa lot sad sack, i meant Hpi Tires.

I originally thought that the cooling fins on the motor would have been much larger. But in actual fact it looks like only 2-3 mm willl need to be ground of the Motor mounts. I was considering stretching the mounts over the motor, But i dont think that would be possible without scratching the motor fins excessively.

So i have 1 large flux now... next has to be a LCG PRC ext carbon Picco28. Going to have to save some coin for that build!

[JoeGuam]

Joe what CF Body are you talking about? or do you mean fibre glass????

Thanksa lot sad sack, i meant Hpi Tires.

I originally thought that the cooling fins on the motor would have been much larger. But in actual fact it looks like only 2-3 mm willl need to be ground of the Motor mounts. I was considering stretching the mounts over the motor, But i dont think that would be possible without scratching the motor fins excessively.

So i have 1 large flux now... next has to be a LCG PRC ext carbon Picco28. Going to have to save some coin for that build!

That is what I meant Fiber glass.. My mind was thinking Carbon Fiber at the time.

[J1A1H]

That is what I meant Fiber glass.. My mind was thinking Carbon Fiber at the time.

I know what you mean... since larsons and banks carbon build... im thinking about building a carbon bashing truck.

I havent managed to fit the motor yet, but i finished the rest of my shocks using the fuel tube mod...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00177.jpg

Also i thought i would take some body and light pics...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00183.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00185.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00186.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00181.jpg

Hopefully if i find the time i will be putting it all together on the weekend

[frddyj]

plus rep taht this is just plain awesome.

i love the blue lights + rep.

[J1A1H]

nice1 frddy! Thought i would get the pictures out of the way... as of this weekend, ITS DEFINITELY NOT going to look this clean again! :chainkiller:
Going to test the poop out of this new motor!

[JoeGuam]

Awesome Truck. I want to see the day and night videos when you get a chance.

[J1A1H]

definitely joe! Its getting closer and closer to running time!!!!!!
Just got a few things sorted and repaired... Have a little looksy

I have decided to use bullet connectors as thats what my LHS Stock more of, and for some reason i just prefer them. Dont know why...

Anyway i got my ESC RX wire re soldered inc bullet connectors

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00197.jpg

My batteries now with bullet connectors too...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00193.jpg

These batteries are HUGE!!! Not only are they fatter they are longer than my usual batteries!!!
As you can see... its a very very tight squeeze in there

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00195.jpg

Still in the process of grinding down the motor mounts, but its taking much longer than expected... I have gone through 4 dremel sanding drums and havent even finished one mount yet!!!! This is going to take a while... i need more drums!
Here is a pic of the length of the motor in the chassis

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00196.jpg

And last pic of it all sitting in their correct place minus ESC and servos.....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00194.jpg

Hopefully all will be done over the weekend.....
Thanks for looking

Josh

[J1A1H]

A little update... I decided to mount my ESC and work out a mounting position for the mechanical brake servo. I also found that my new steering servo arm is so long that it would come into contact with the motor. So i had to work out another way of mounting it.... Here is what i came up with... your opinions are much apprciated if you can better what i came up with...

OK FIRSTLY...
The servo arm and relocation....
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00204.jpg

When its mounted it is obstructed by the motor...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00205.jpg

So i thought i would try it mounted on the outside... I dont like how its so vulnerable... but i guess many people do this sort of thing so it should be ok...
Has anyone got any ideas for making a stronger longer linkage between the servo arm and the steering assembly???

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00208.jpg

I then had to move the mounting position of my Handle bar which required a little dremeling but its sitting nicely now... Its not really necessary to have it fitted but i am using it to protect the ESC....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00209.jpg

I then drilled some mounting holes for the ESC. Although its mounted high up... It is protected by the roll bar and sits right under the centre of the body and is clear or any possible damage. Also if i do run it in te wet... it will be well away from splashes (i hope... pshhh corrosion x is protecting it anyway)

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00210.jpg

Here it is mounted

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00213.jpg

I then decided to find a place to mount my second servo for the brakes... Now because i had to relocate my ESC Position due to the larger batteries at the rear... i had to use a position which i didnt really want to use... But oh well... What do you think??? Do you think there is enough space for the servo arm and all the linkages etc.....????

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00214.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00215.jpg
Close up
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00216.jpg

I have yet to finish the Motor mounts... ITS IS BL**DY Hard!!!! Takes ages to grind it down with the dremel!

Your help and ideas would be much appreciated!!! THANKS

[Tominator06]

Nice work so far. Never thought of putting the motor up front like that. wonder how the weight will balance out. Front to back anyway.

[J1A1H]

Tom, This isnt the only chassis that moves the motor up front. The FLM Forward Mount TVP kit does it too. It works very well!.

A few things arrived in the post today... A little update...
Titanium turn buckles
Metal tie rod ends
Brake Linkage kit
Traxxas carbon wing
Hotbodies wing mount

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00225.jpg

After looking at how the wing and mount would fit, i was suddenly very worried about how much of my fibre glass body i was going to need to cut. I dont want to ruin my Rear GCM decal :cry:

So it got me :thinking: and i may use the wing mount and a second wing on my Basher Desert rat body (which is being painted at the moment... pics will be up end of the week) But for the time being i was thinking of directly mounting my Carbon wing to the Fibre glass body???? It may not take the biggest pounding but this is just my road body anyway....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00226.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00227.jpg

What do you think??? I didnt realise how much of the body i was going to have to alter... and i REALLY dont want to do that.


Also i finally decided on mounting both steering and brake servo on the inside of the chassis. I will use a shorter alu servo horn for the steering so it doesnt come into contact with the motor, and i will use my long alu servo horn for the brake which gives enough clearence to mount my brake linkages perfectly...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00219.jpg

As you can see in the pic below... The alu servo horn is located perfectly just outside the tvps for the brake linkage.

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00220.jpg

Ill try and get the brakes linkage mounted today....

[J1A1H]

a few lil updates...
When trying to fit my metal tie rod ends to my titainium turn buckles... i noticed that they would only screw on one end. I think this is due to the fact that one side of the turn buckle has a reverse thread which allows you to adjust them when fitted. So i am quite annoyed but live and learn... Ive got them fitted only on one side and platic rod end on the other... But what ever...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00228.jpg

Started my brake linkage too but i dont have a long enough rod so will go to my LHS soon and pick one up... otherwise its coming together slowly...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00229.jpg

After looking a little more at the Wing, i dont think i would be happy with it mounted to the body... so im going to wait for my PRC mount to turn up and take it from there... here is another pic... as you can see, it just doesnt look right...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00233.jpg

[J1A1H]

So Another Update... I cant keep up with the postman!!! Anyway a few things arrived again today.....

Some Monster Energy Decals....
Turnigy Temp gun....
Orange Mesh Protector stuff (looks crazy and protects your wires... Cheap stuff too) From HobbyKing
HPI Rush Battery box

Enjoy the pics 8) :lol:

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00234.jpg

Fitted a couple decals to the body to brighten it up a bit... They are shiny :lol:

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00236.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00249.jpg

The mesh is great... it freys very easily but nothing a lighter cant fix.... Changes the internals of the truck by brightening it up and makes it clear where the wires are...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00238.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00239.jpg


In order to get everything to fit nicely in the battery box which i am mounting at the front of the truck once my PRC Rush battery box mount comes. I had to cut a larger inlet for all the wires, and run the wires through the centre of the shock tower... THIS SHOULD BE FINE RIGHT????
My receiver is hidden in there with my Y harness for my ESC and Mechanical brakes including my Steering servo wires. It sits very tight against the body as you can see, but it should be fine.

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00243.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00246.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00245.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00247.jpg

[J1A1H]

I moved my ESC back under the roll bar yesterday as it will sit lower in the chassis and is better protected... I am going to have to do a little altering to the spur gear shroud but after that all should be good :)

Where i had previously had the ESC Mounted, i have now put a brace bar there just to strengthen everything up...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00251.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00252.jpg

i never liked it being mounted so high and far forward....
I will be shrink tubing the ends of all the orange mesh next to give it a clean look and prevent it from threading...

[J1A1H]

ITS RUNNING!!!! WOOP WOOP!!! Had to alter the TVPs to fit the motor... But all done now.

Will get pics up later... im going to go test drive it!

[JoeGuam]

Videos, Videos, Videos......

[J1A1H]

Gave it a little test run to day just to see that the car is all lined up and everything... But ITS A BEAST!!!! I lost a wheel nut so that cut my session early.... The motor and esc is running quite hot... What sort of temps should i be reaching MAX... if its quite high i may have to gear a little lower.....
Vids coming soon... once i receive my new lock nuts...

I got these as guidelines... can you lot confirm them...

Max temps ( general guide lines ):

motor 180*F max, ideally 120-160*F
esc 160*F max, ideally 120-140*F
lipos 120-140*F max, ideally... less.

Also as a general rule:

hot motor + cool esc & batts = undergeared
cool motor + hot esc & batts = overgeared
warm everything = just right
hot everything ( or hot esc and motor since massive lipos take alot to heatup ) = way overgeared.

[JoeGuam]

Thats about right but I would keep the temps on the motor between 130-160. I run the Castle MMM for 45 mins WOT and I never get the motor higher than 155 and that is due to the opnion, spur gear, and battery combination. I have clocked my sons Brushless at 74 MPH. In addition I also check the slipper/clutch temps everytime which about 135-144 degree F.

[frddyj]

I never get the motor higher than 155 and that is due to the opnion, spur gear, and battery combination.

Joe can you please post your gear #'s?

thx
freddy

[JoeGuam]

Joe can you please post your gear #'s?

thx
freddy

Keep in mind that it is an E Revo Brushless with alot of upgrades. If I am not mistaken the gearing I that the truck is running is a 18 pinion 54 spur with (2) 3S 5250 MAX AMPS LIPOS continious for 45 mins. That seems to keep the temps under 155. For the top speed I ran a 24 pinion and 54 spur for approx 25 min continious at WOT. I stopped at 155 degree so I do not damage anything. Plus you can only do so many speed runs before you "lets go and bash the truck". Not sure what I had done with my truck log but I am confident that those were the E Revo brushless set up.

[J1A1H]

How bad is it that my fan on the MMM is on quite a lot of the time?
My setup is 21t pinion 44 spur, 39t High speed idler with a neu1520 1600kv motor.

I thought this is very reasonable gearing considering the torque of the motor. I should be running pretty cool compared to people running the the torq2200 with 20/44 and 39t high speed idler shouldnt i?

[Bankrupter]

That is over geared. Mine can get hot on 19/45 39T tranny, BP diffs... and its got to be allot lighter then yours ! EDIT : I read half that ... try it ...

[J1A1H]

people on rc monster are saying the same thing.

I am going to chuck a 17t clutch bell in there and see how the temps go....

If they are still high... i may have to throw out the high speed idler and re gear accordingly.

I thought this new motor would be able to handle the extra weight of this truck due to it being more efficient... Its only about an ounce over stock... this truck is lighter that someone running a stock flux with Big Joes! So its not that heavy!

Hopefully if my wheel nuts arrive.. i can run it this weekend and see what temps the car hits.

[J1A1H]

I thought i would work out the final possible weight of my truck with different combo wheels and batteries and bodies.
The weight in lbs are at the bottom.

Truck - no wheels, no shell, no batteries
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00256.jpg

Fibre glass body! SO HEAVY!
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00257.jpg

SPI Rims
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00258.jpg

HPI tires
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00259.jpg

Hyperion 6500mah 3s lipos
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00260.jpg

3700mah 3s lipos
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00261.jpg

For road:
Fibre Glass body 2.1lbs!!!!!!
Spi Rims 2.9lbs
6500mah hyperion batteries 2.5lbs!!!!!!!
Truck 9.5lbs
= 17lbs!!!!!!!! OH MY GOD! The batteries and the body are so heavy!!! Think i will just keep the body as a shelf queen!

Grass and bashing
Plastic body ??? not sure yet
HPI tires and proline rims 2.2lbs
3700mah batteries. 1.4lbs
Truck 9.5lbs
= a more respectable 13.1 lbs +plastic body

with the large batteries 2.5lbs
= 14.2lbs Those batteries are killing my weight! they better pay off by giving me great run times!

Without the fibreglass body and using the large batteries and lighter wheels the weight isnt too bad for such a large truck.

I doubt the fibreglass body is ever going to get any use now... keep it as a shelf queen

[J1A1H]

The weights on the scales are kg...
For such a large truck i think the weight it acceptable when running it as light as possible....

BUT i didnt realise how bad it would be if i fully loaded it!!!!! :shocked::shocked:

Pshhh :Meh: ill just gear it lower for around 50mph and make this extra long beast extremley torquey! :chainkiller:
:thinking:
Dont really need top speed...

[JoeGuam]

I thought i would work out the final possible weight of my truck with different combo wheels and batteries and bodies.
The weight in lbs are at the bottom.

For road:
Fibre Glass body 2.1lbs!!!!!!
Spi Rims 2.9lbs
6500mah hyperion batteries 2.5lbs!!!!!!!
Truck 9.5lbs
= 17lbs!!!!!!!! OH MY GOD! The batteries and the body are so heavy!!! Think i will just keep the body as a shelf queen!

Grass and bashing
Plastic body ??? not sure yet
HPI tires and proline rims 2.2lbs
3700mah batteries. 1.4lbs
Truck 9.5lbs
= a more respectable 13.1 lbs +plastic body

with the large batteries 2.5lbs
= 14.2lbs Those batteries are killing my weight! they better pay off by giving me great run times!

Without the fibreglass body and using the large batteries and lighter wheels the weight isnt too bad for such a large truck.

I doubt the fibreglass body is ever going to get any use now... keep it as a shelf queen

Unless you are going to race professionaly, I wouldn't be too worried about the weight. At least you know it will plow through the competition. Before the "Ready, set, GO" punch it and run the other trucks over. LOL. Josh it's fine as long as your happy with the truck and having fun, then it is all the counts! I have (1) XL axles but not as set.

[frddyj]

Unless you are going to race professionaly, I wouldn't be too worried about the weight.

If he's pushing a 17# truck vs. a 13# truck, dont you think the additional 4# would cause the motor to work harder to move the heavier load resulting in heat?

IMO you should be very concerned about the weight of the truck in relation to how you have it geared.

i will weigh my truck within the hour, but i beleve it to be appx 4 lb lighter and geared much lower.

[J1A1H]

Unless you are going to race professionaly, I wouldn't be too worried about the weight. At least you know it will plow through the competition. Before the "Ready, set, GO" punch it and run the other trucks over. LOL. Josh it's fine as long as your happy with the truck and having fun, then it is all the counts! I have (1) XL axles but not as set.

Thanks a lot Joe! Really do appreciate it! I originally wanted to make a very stable fast truck... Looks like its not going to be possible... Other people on other forums have said that the only way would be to run 10s on a 1000kv engine. BUT NO WAY am i going to increase the weight of this truck. How ever once i start building my second lightweight basher, i will be very tempted to take this motor 1600kv motor and put it in the new carbon truck and put two torq2200 motors and 2 ESC and run two sets of 6s as a bit of a joke. See if my tranny will be able to hold up :)

Frddy i am very concerned about the weight... and depending how i am running the truck will effect what kind of gearing i run too.

As i said before, i will attempt to run a 17t clutch bell/44spur and 39t idler, and see how my temps fair.

I may be running higher gearing that you frdy but my motor is also rated at a much lower kv....

So these are my CURRENT performance figures vs yours....
me with 21t/44/39 neu 1600kv

Differential Ratio: 3.2222222222222223
Transmission Ratio: 1.5366847826086956
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 21
Total Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 1600
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.5
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0.5
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.1 : 1
Total Ratio: 10.37465 : 1
Tire Cir***ference (inches): 20.42 inches (518.68 mm)
Rollout: 1.97:1
Total Motor Speed: 35520 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 66.21 mph (106.35 km/h)

YOURS if i remember correctly
19/44/39 torq 2200kv

Differential Ratio: 3.2222222222222223
Transmission Ratio: 1.5366847826086956
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 45
Pinion Tooth Count: 19
Total Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.5
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0.5
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.37 : 1
Total Ratio: 11.72733 : 1
Tire Cir***ference (inches): 20.42 inches (518.68 mm)
Rollout: 1.74:1
Total Motor Speed: 48840 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 80.53 mph (129.36 km/h)

The difference in potential top speed is extremely huge and all just because of the motor.
My neu is much more efficient and considering my truck is roughly 13-14lbs it should easily be able to run my truck with no heating issues at all with this gearing.
Being more effcient and also slower rotating it shouldnt draw as many amps from the ESC... This is how i thought it would have worked... If anything your truck is geared too high for your motor?
Please help me understand this... I thought this motor would have benefited me, and now it seems it just killing what i was trying to achieve.

But i do love the torque:) with the high speedidler and the 21t pinion, i was still wheeling this long wheel base at high speeds :)

[JoeGuam]

What kind of lipos you running? Pretty sure you will figure it out smart guy.

[JoeGuam]

If he's pushing a 17# truck vs. a 13# truck, dont you think the additional 4# would cause the motor to work harder to move the heavier load resulting in heat?

IMO you should be very concerned about the weight of the truck in relation to how you have it geared.

i will weigh my truck within the hour, but i beleve it to be appx 4 lb lighter and geared much lower.

If you are looking to beat every truck out there, then yes common sense lighter is faster.

[J1A1H]

due to the size... i am only running 6s from now on joe. i have just sent Dan from kershaw an email regarding a motor mount for twin motors for the torq2200...

In the end joe... if i have to gear down to maintain temps, it doesnt bother me too much as long as i am getting reliable and worry free bashing time. I just didnt want to lose too much of my top end as this thing is soooo stable at speed with the wide spi rims and long wheel base.

[frddyj]

If you are looking to beat every truck out there, then yes common sense lighter is faster.

we werent talking about speed and beating other trucks here nor lighter vs faster.

we were talking about how vehicle weight and gearing relates to Temps :resp:

[J1A1H]

frddy any news on the weight of your truck??? Yours must be around 11-12# to handle the high gearing and maintain decent temps...

[J1A1H]

wing mount on and rush battery box mounted that house my reciever
THANKS JASON!!! Quality products!

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00262.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00263.jpg

[JoeGuam]

3700mah 3s lipos
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00261.jpg

3700mah batteries. 1.4lbs

I agree the truck weight and gearing can result in higher temps. What temps were you getting. When I touch the motor by hand I think it is hot but when I use a temp gun it is only 130-155 degree which are good. Wondering what batteries with the kv1600 were you using to reference high temps.

[JoeGuam]

Is the wheelie support cut and if so what benefit does that have?

[J1A1H]

yep those 3700mah batts were the ones i were using to test... I have only run the truck 5 mins and didnt have my temp gun on me at the time. I will have to see what temps i get on a decent run. I just didnt want to push the truck without having a way of monitoring it accurately.

Yes the supports are damaged. NOT CUT, it was a very big jump that caused that haha
A new wheelie bar will be needed. If you get tired of soljas wheelie bar when he sends it to you... you can send it my way :)

[JoeGuam]

IMO those batteries were not feeding the motor the watts (power) that the motor it is rated to operate normally= high temps. You need sufficient amps x cell voltage for that motor.

[J1A1H]

they are 35c batts which should be suitable. I havent used my large hyperions yet because i dont have the charging adaptor for them. Should get it by the end of next week....

[JoeGuam]

Is it a true 35C? Make a bet the hyperion batteries will not produce as much heat with the same time you ran those other batteries.

[J1A1H]

yes they are... They are very good batteries bought for £70 each! same price as hyperions. Very re****ble lipo dealer! i will keep everyone updated once i test the hyperions out too

[Bankrupter]

If they are still high... i may have to throw out the high speed idler and re gear accordingly.

this truck is lighter that someone running a stock flux with Big Joes! So its not that heavy!

.

OK I have to comment here, that is not near big joe weights with plastic rims. I had big joe 40's on wabash 23mm rims. They didnt add too much over the weight of badlands.

We weighed those rims against my set up. Both shod with badlands. The alloy rims came in a 4 lbs heaver... ***that's just the rims*** mine were 2.2 his were 6N' change. People are saying, "they are not heavy" around here(HPISF). This is pure BS, they are and all on the drive line!

We weighed them just to know... Not to hurt the sales of them! All the people pushing them saying "they are not heavy", we could not understand. The scale told the story.

Those 6500 packs fred has both are over 1 lb a pop. So that alone is 6lb's plus then add truck. You are asking for fire. This is not near the weight of the stock flux. Stock flux is not heavy at all....

People are reporting that shell you are using to be 2 Lbs as well. 8 lbs over weight as I see it.

Id keep my mouth shut but I see the investment here. This is not to rib you in anyway! (*** I am known to do this about heavy trucks***) I am concerned about you burning up your new gear!

I am happy you are watching temps close. Please do so and report back honestly. This is the only way to help others with gear/motor combos that are unknown. This is good data for the forum! But over all I want to see you not smoke a esc ...

[J1A1H]

Bank i have taken everything you have said on board... i guess i have learned my mistake the expensive way. I really thought i could build a large performance truck... This is obviously not the case.
Thanks for looking out for my investment bank... the last thing i want to is to blow anything!

I will just enjoy what i have and gear accordingly... I have enough spare parts for another flux so i think my next build will be done properly and kept lightweight. Ive got my eyes on the PRC Ext TVPs :)

Anyway i will be gearing for 50mph on 6s which should easily keep my temps down even if i decide to run the heavy spis. BUT although the spis are a little heavier than stock... they do improve handling amazingly! Maybe not worth the extra weight though.

I needed someone to pull me out of thinking that this truck could do 60+mph and weigh 15lbs + I didnt realise how much a couple of lbs could effect the motor and esc....

I would say thank you again... but i feel i am overusing it :)

[J1A1H]

Little update to solve my heating issues...

I have just bought an 18t pinion and 47spur... will be running this combo with the high speed idler gear which should give me around 55mph on 6s rated at 4.2v per cell.
When bashing in the woods, i will use the stock drive gear ratio which will bring my top speed down to 40mph. Shouldnt be over geared or under geared i hope.Only time will tell.
Pics of my new body will be up by this afternoon.

Thanks bank for pointing in the right direction. Fibreglass body is now my shelf queen and my desertrat body will be everything else :)

[frddyj]

@ Bankrupter - Good points and well said. This is the point i was trying to make back a few posts.


You need be very concerned about your weights & load heavier load on a electric motor makes more work & heat. period. this holds true for a savage, electric drill,electric cement mixer, egg beater, etc.

@ Josh- before you go crazy changing things, try going to stock gearing & keep everything else the same: 20/44/44 -- (especially get that 39t idler outta there) and see how she goes. I bet she cools down substantially.

[J1A1H]

will do frddy!!! i would be out right now testing it... Its funny how i have spare parts for nearly everything on the savage... and the one thing i lose (wheel nut) is the only thing i dont have spares! should be here by monday hopefully

[J1A1H]

Just finished my new body... Its a desert rat for a slayer...
For my first every paint job, i am very happy. I went overboard with the monster energy stickers but im loving it and i doubt the condition will look this good after the first run

here you go.... Pictures arent great but you get the idea....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00265.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00264.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00267.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00266.jpg

What do you think???

[Pope]

Very nice job.

[Bankrupter]

wow, I love it ! Make that the queen lol jk jk.

Josh, I do want you to push it. I just want you temping all runs till you know. I have no clue how that motor is going to react. Im not even pretending to... I just dont want to see you smoke it as much as you dont want to ... I only came in with the weights I knew, caz you said its not much more then stock. I was afraid you were going to do it in b4 I see that pig 10+ feet in the air...

[Shaun]

Awsome lid,great job on the paint my friend.....

[J1A1H]

Thanks for all the compliments....

@BANK - lol it does actually look 100 times better than the fibreglass lid lol when i have time ill def do another one...

PIG haha I appreciate the concern and would definitely look out for someone who is probably going to make a mistake somewhere...

Ill let the new gearing and temps do the talking... At leaset i had the sense to stop running immediately the first time when i thought something was up...... Its just a shame i didnt have my temp gun with me at the time... but with common sense (rip lol) you can tell just by touch if something is running too hot for its own good.

[MikeK1981]

That body looks sick my friend! Good work.

[frddyj]

that body kicks butt Josh :jamout:

[J1A1H]

cheers buddy!

just sent my donation in for the raffle :) Im feeling lucky!!! Come on carbon tvps! then second build will be under way!

[J1A1H]

there needs to be an edit button

[JoeGuam]

Josh that is an Awesome tape job and paint. Your lines are straight with nice curves. I cant see overspray. Great Job.

[J1A1H]

thanks a lot joe... i took my sweet time taping it! I want to have another crack at a different body... But im loving this desertrat body too much! Fits well with my desertboy chassis :) haha see what i did there... lol not that funny anyway! cheers buddy!

[JoeGuam]

Josh that is an Awesome tape job and paint. Your lines are straight with nice curves. I cant see overspray. Great Job.

thanks a lot joe... i took my sweet time taping it! I want to have another crack at a different body... But im loving this desertrat body too much! Fits well with my desertboy chassis :) haha see what i did there... lol not that funny anyway! cheers buddy!

If you did not say anything about it I would have taught you intended the fender flare to look like that. It is all good. This is where the edit button would work for your last post and delete "haha see what I did there".

[J1A1H]

If you did not say anything about it I would have taught you intended the fender flare to look like that. It is all good. This is where the edit button would work for your last post and delete "haha see what I did there".

i need to convince bank to give me an edit button! I am so used to having it on all forums... Now i have to double check my posts before posting snoopdogg

I hope to have this badboy up and running by the weekend!!! Im dying to run it properly!

The last few things on their way at the moment are:
Wheel Nuts
18t mod1 pinion
47t steel spur
my charging adaptor for the hyperions too...

Thats all that needs to be done really...

I dont have anything else to do???
Guys seriously... this truck is finished for the time being... What do i do? :thinking:
Do i begin building a second savage now? or do i wait till i win the tvps :bigsmilie:

My ideas for a next build..... and changes to my current one.....

Ok after being around here for the last few months... i have now realised that i have made a few mistakes with buying the tvps i had bought. Although i do love them as the handling is ridiculous... tames all those wheelies and puts the power too the ground...

So my next savage is going to be utilise an ext PRC lcg chassis which will use my current Neu 1520 motor and geared for around 40 on 4s (no 6s here, light weight batteries ftw) PLENTY OF CARBON PARTS - I will be using this for racing (found a track near me), and hard bashing (depending on what shocks i put on it)

As for my current XXL Savage... i am going to create a speed machine out of it. It wont be used to bash... it will be used to cover huge spaces in no time at all :bigsmilie:
I have plans for an overkill setup for the large wheel base and wide footprint...
I have decided on:
- Two torque 2200 and 2 MMM powering this thing. OVERKILL I KNOW but for a heavier car... splitting the weight over two Motors should help take the strain away and allow me to gear high :thinking: money man

I have been emailing dan at karshaw regarding motor mounts for twin setups. (as most of these mounts require you to mount motors up high in the chassis above the spur gear... this will no longer be safe to do jumps with (worried about ripping the motors from their mounts on landings))

Anyway i see how this all goes... I just want to run my current truck at the moment and have some fun!

Your ideas and opinions are most welcome!

[88gtanotchback]

im intrigued. that sounds like an expensive bomb but i wanna watch. lol

[J1A1H]

lol i hope the show will be explosive enough for you 88 :)

Well in the mean time as i only got this sucker together... i am going to have a secondary road setup. This will include a new ESC and 2 more cells :)

So i will be running 8s for on road use with a Phoenix Ice HV 160 ESC. It can handle up to 50v and 160amps of current. Thats 10-12s!!! But you can only use these ESC if you have mechanical brakes.. Also it has data logging so should make it useful analysing the performance.

Need some extra hyperions now!

[JoeGuam]

Josh.. I hope to see this soon.

[what the FLUX]

Great build J. The GCM tvp's are a great design (packs inside the chassis). Very nice 1st lid.

I learnt the hard way about being too heavy. I think you'd be safer gearing for 40-45mph being so heavy. I got a 14t pinion to mesh by notching the motor plate brace, I didn't need to mod the plate itself. I used a round file, it only took a couple of minutes to do.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn205/REVO_46/Savage%20FLUX/DSCF0964.jpg

You just need to set the mesh before you fit the right tvp.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn205/REVO_46/Savage%20FLUX/DSCF0976.jpg

Good luck man.

[J1A1H]

Thanks whattheflux (whats your name)
I will take what you said into consideration... Im doing a first proper test run tomorrow.
I have geared down to around 55mph on 6s. It was hot before geared at 75 (which was an accident) i was just so eager to get a test run in...
Anyway im testing it tomorrow finally and will take temp recordings.
The trucks final weight is 13.6lbs which isnt too much heavier than some guys with their carbon trucks. (if i run my heavy batteries my weight is 14.3lbs) but ill be running my lightweight ones tomorrow as i dont have a balance charger for my hyperions just yet.

Hopefully the 1520 will be up to the job. Im going to bring various wheels and see how they affect the temps

Nice pics.. .at least i know that i can grind a little out to run lower pinions!

[what the FLUX]

No worries. names Brad.
Make sure you check it often, I fried my esc in seconds on the 2nd charge after having run it seemingly ok for 25 mins on the 1st, was running Axial beadlocks & big joe's.

[what the FLUX]

Oh yeah forgot to ask, what parts did you end up getting for the brakes. I think HPI#86092, 87025, 86101 & Ofna #10704 should do it?

[J1A1H]

Brad i will get the details for you in a few hours...

But for the time being... I managed to run the car on the 3700mah lipos...
AMAZING HANDLING!!! ran 120f on the motor esc and lipos which seems pretty decent! I am recharging the batts and will have a vid up this evening!!!

The truck is handling great and just the right amount of power... I am going to leave the gearing as it and get ready for an 8s setup for speed runs !!! :)

[J1A1H]

i forgot to mention, i had one small roll and broke my CF Wing mount which i am quite disappointed about... I thought it would be stronger... Dont think it can handle the weight of the truck on roll overs... :(

[JoeGuam]

i forgot to mention, i had one small roll and broke my CF Wing mount which i am quite disappointed about... I thought it would be stronger... Dont think it can handle the weight of the truck on roll overs... :(

Josh... Want to try my wing mount..LMAO. So the Carbon Fiber broke? Sorry to hear. I am taking a look into a wing mount that a couple of truggie guys are using. It looks promising.

[J1A1H]

lol i think your wing mount may hold up better than this carbon fibre one... I think the weight of the truck just snapped it off the bolts... I will take some pics and load them up with vids of the car running tonight...

[JoeGuam]

I took mine off because everyone kept pushing me to go the CF wing mount. I ordered mine and I beleive I'll be fine with it "crossing fingers and knocking on wood".

[J1A1H]

lol it loosk great with out a doubt.. But i rolled once today only because i turned tight (No jumping) and it snapped away from the bottom bolts!

[JoeGuam]

lol it loosk great with out a doubt.. But i rolled once today only because i turned tight (No jumping) and it snapped away from the bottom bolts!

Just go to the hardware store and get a metal plate and fabricate it. You have a template. That was something I did not have plus I tried to be different.

[J1A1H]

thats what im going to do... Metal plate will be much stronger... I guess carbon is a little too brittle to handle the extra weight

[J1A1H]

ok.. anyway.. .I ran the car first time yesterday and my got its a whole new truck! Handles great and rips hard!!!!
Took it out today to shoot... but my local ground when i run was full of people so i took it easy. Plus i only got 2 mins in today because the pinion came loose...

Any ideas to keep the pinion on?
I used blue loctite on the shaft and plenty on the grub screw!!! Shall i use red???

Anyway here is a very short vid 2 mins after the pinion came loose...

Ill get better vids up of this on full throttle... only half throttle on this as i was just making sure all bolts were kl before letting her rip... not that i had the chance... *censored* PINION! Also the mech brakes are amazing... Motor brakes are rubbish compared!

here you go... (oh yesterday i had one little tumble and ripped my wing off.. so no wing on at the moment...

Also im having problems keeping the wheel nuts tight!!! im continuously bringing the car in every 2 mins just double checking the bolts are still tight... If they were plastic rims, i would have rounded them by now! I think its to do with the metal on metal (plastic grips better) i may put a rubber o ring between the nut and wheel and then tighten... what do you think???

http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/?action=view&current=MOV00279.flv

[J1A1H]

Heres another 20 second vid... Its short because, it had rained that day and i wasnt sure how wet it was... I decided to stop running as i didnt want to risk anything.... you cant see it so clearly but you can see water rooster tails from the car... Half throttle accleration... This thing has so much to unleash!

OH BY THE WAY!!! temps were 45 degrees motor, 50degrees esc and 38degrees on the lipos... that was after a 20min run yesterday! NOT BAD TEMPS for a 14lbs truck on 6s!!! i may even gear higher or just drop the 8s in there sooner for more top speed!

http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=MOV00278.flv (http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/?action=view&current=MOV00278.flv)

[ibanez890]

lol same thing for me, my spi wheel came flying off LOL i swapped the nuts i had for the ones on my buggy because they have lines on them for a better grip, never come loose yet =]

[J1A1H]

ooo what sort of bolts do they have? can you link me to some please!!!

[JoeGuam]

Sweet Josh

[ibanez890]

i bought the 17mm hex conversion which has the 17mm nuts to hold them on, my buggy has the same style of conversion set (hpi trophy 3.5) and they came with lines on them for a better grip, i cant really tell online which ones have lines and which ones dont since u cant see it in any pictures, but if you buy some for a trophy they MIGHT have lines lol

[J1A1H]

heres a few vids joint together from today... Im ready to hit the woods tomorrow and do some jumps!
Im very happy with the gearing as this is only on 6s and is perfect for bashing and is fast enough... When i do speed runs or run on concrete ill use the 8s... Should be much faster then

http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/a...rent=001-2.flv (http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/?action=view&current=001-2.flv)

[Mickey]

looks good j1. that thing rips

[J1A1H]

i wasnt even thinking of driving the car today but as it was in the boot of the car and a full set of batteries, why the hell not...

Ive only run flat grass to make sure it was all put together before trying something a little more stupid...

Short vid of jumping on tall grass.... I also took it out one more tonight on some gravel and dirt... too dark to get videos, but its 100X better and way more fun on these surfaces. Just need to find more areas which are disused...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXsXbNZXwSI

Will be updated with vids frequently when i can find better bashing spots.

[J1A1H]

Thought i would also mention that temperatures are still cool to very cool... averaging 30-50degrees c...

No damage was caused in the most recent videos...

But after running this evening, i blew one of my dirt claws on grass whilst the truck was driving on two wheels... So frustrating!!!

[jssouthtx]

Nice vids man....looks pretty quick. I like how it keeps the front planted down. Can't wait to see it on some sticky pavement.

:cheers:

[J1A1H]

Thanks man!

Due to the extra length i find that the car when on 6s behaves like a flux on 4s, so im dying to try 8s out to get that crazy speed rush again! It has great acceleration but the top end is a little limited due to the motor not spinning very fast...

For example, when you run the torq2200 on 6s with 20/44 the motor spins at 58,000 rpm or there abouts...

The 1520 with 47/18 and highspeed idler spins at 33000rpm... So if i run 8s it should be nearer 53000rpm. Some people told me that they run this motor on 10s for 2 or 3 speed runs then let it cool down... Considering i will have an ESC that can handle 10s-12s i may play with it just for fun... But i dont want to blow my motor.. Its rated to 60,000rpm so i would like to keep it within its limits... but people say its a tough motor and can handle it on occasion...

[DOOBEEWHA]

Dude.....Show us the vid already.

[J1A1H]

i havent got the items yet for 8-9s runs yet but i have vids on 6s on the previous page... nothing special yet... just finding places to jump the car! and some gravel and dirt spots to run! grass is boring

[J1A1H]

New updated vid...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fh7-wU71z-w

damage of the day was a stripped plastic servo horn... alloy is now on there

[JoeGuam]

Thats what I am talking about Josh.

[Travis Mowery]

Yea man no sweat. I love spi's i wouldnt go back to a plastic rim. You NEVER really have to worry about bending a rim. Rick has only had ONE rim bend and thats because my friend barry jumped his t-maxx off his house and landed one concrete and put a minor bend in the rim. But the rims werent the stongest. They were the reaper rims. Rick has been making rims for about 10 years now and has not had but 1 rim bend.

My dad has a truck the same length as yours but made it before GCM came out with theres.

http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12785
This is the Build thread ^ ^ ^

This is the backflip video
http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13650

My dad has taking some NASTY!! hits with Spi's and has not had a problem with his truck breaking or bending Spi's and his Brushless truck weighs 15 1/2 -16 poundds

[DOOBEEWHA]

thankx j1a1h...
I see your running in one of my favorite setups...Rear wheel drive.
your ride looks great sounds solid.

well done on the build, bud.

[J1A1H]

THanks DOOBEE, and i am not running rear wheel drive... thats 4 wheel...
Its running nicely at the moment!

Travis i am shocked by your truck... The first i have seen of it.
Thats insane power! How are you doing standing back flips considering the weight etc..???

Thanks

[DOOBEEWHA]

Wow....Really?
Looks to me like it's reardrive from your latest vid...
Sure your not missing a front drive shaft?..hehe? If not,.. my bad.
Love your ride though.

[J1A1H]

haha not missing a drive shaft... i did just check just in case lol.

I found some more dirt places to run, and the truck is getting run hard...

Blew anotehr tire yesterday! THIS IS SO ANNOYING!

first my dirt claws now my dirt bonz... so 2 pairs of tires now useless!
Back on stock for the time being... cant decide what new tires to get.

Also has anyone got any tips for keeping dirt and dust out of the esc? im worried about rocks etc getting in there! but i dont want to restrict air flow

[Travis Mowery]

THanks DOOBEE, and i am not running rear wheel drive... thats 4 wheel...
Its running nicely at the moment!

Travis i am shocked by your truck... The first i have seen of it.
Thats insane power! How are you doing standing back flips considering the weight etc..???

Thanks

Just sure power my man :)

[J1A1H]

haha travis you need to shed some light! :)

Travis whats your choice of tire for bashing on dirt and grass.. something that doesnt wear so quickly...
MY Dirtbonz were finished after 3 runs!!! Now one has a puncture!

Need something a little more durable!

but seriously... what motor, number of lipo cells and gearing were you using to do that back flip???

I guess if i geared down and stiffened up my suspension, it may be possible... But i cant get the grip on the ground...

Im going to try my stockers tonight and see how they go...
Take it easy

[BIGDAN89]

http://outerwears.com/products.asp?cat=12683 check out the last 2 products on the page

[Travis Mowery]

I wouldnt reccommend the outerwear covers becauuse they hold heat and burn stuff up. The esc's need to breath

EDIT: they might say they can breath through the outerwears but it will melt your esc

[J1A1H]

fair enough ill take you word for it...

im considering badlands now... I will put them on dish rims and order some prolines road rages for the spis...

I chucked on the stock tires and they have changed the handling so much

Firstly i can no longer corner.
It wheelies very easily now, and the car is uncontrollable!

Just a few passes.
By the way the wheels have no offset so it the wheels are scrapping the body at times

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7LeFcsJRTc


Also this afernoon i managed to strip my stock tranny gears apart from my 39t idler gear and hd drive gear! Lucky i have some light weight gears to go in... Pics are coming

[J1A1H]

Managed to take the truck out today and it was not a good day!!!

Firstly i blew up another tire!!! Seriously i think these dirt claws tires are weak!!! Ive blown two tires out of 3 times of running the truck! The other time i blew my dirt bonz!!! Remember these tires are strapped aswel!!! LOOK AT HOW THEY BALLOON!!!

Also, i havent checked yet but i think i blew my rear dif as well!!! Im ****ed off as i need to source all these products again!
I dont think strapping tires does enough! I may look into the fishing line mod to prevent them from ballooning!!!

At 35 seconds you can hear the tire pop! and at the end before stopping the vid was when i blew my rear diff!!! Do you think i could get HPI to send me a new one as these arent meant to explode so easily!???

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1Zzdq5DCXk

[Travis Mowery]

haha travis you need to shed some light! :)

Travis whats your choice of tire for bashing on dirt and grass.. something that doesnt wear so quickly...
MY Dirtbonz were finished after 3 runs!!! Now one has a puncture!

Need something a little more durable!

but seriously... what motor, number of lipo cells and gearing were you using to do that back flip???

I guess if i geared down and stiffened up my suspension, it may be possible... But i cant get the grip on the ground...

Im going to try my stockers tonight and see how they go...
Take it easy


The Truck runs the stock 8 shocks with 4 purple springs and 4 black springs.
Geariing is 43 spur and 19 pinion
We are running two 3s 5000mah packs through it

ANd far as tires i would go with the badlands

[J1A1H]

thanks for the info travis...
Just ordered the bad lands and some new rubber tube things to replace the soft fuel tubing in the shocks...

Just weighed the truck again...
The complete truck (motor, tranny + body) Without wheels and lipos the truck weighs 9.47lbs
+ SPI Rims = 2.6lbs
+ Lipos 1.7 lbs
= 13.77lbs

Thats not bad for a fat truck!!!! i thought i was in the low 14lbs range!

The truck is going through a rebuild at the moment...
Replacing diff oil
Rebuilding shocks
Re Loctiting everything
Re setting camber and toe for the new badlands so they wear evenly (i think this is why my dirt bonz popped)
loc tited my servo saver as it kept on coming lose and then i would have no steering.
Opened and cleaned out the ESC as it was very dusty and had some stones in it. (I would put some sort of cover over it but i would prefer to clean it once in a while rather than increase chances of over heating it.

I will upload some pics of my tranny after the destruction! (New lightweight gears installed now)

I removed my dirt claws off my spi rims using the boiling method. Worked very well actually apart from ruining the finish on the alu rims.

Also i have some images of two of my tires which i hope are salvageable as they tore when i was removing them from the rims :(

Travis im going to swap out my high speed idler and return to normal and see if my truck can do some standing backflips :)

[J1A1H]

Took the car out yesterday on the new badlands...
But one of the strapped tires came unstrapped so as i type this i am boiling it off the rim, and going to restrap it.

[DOOBEEWHA]

Took the car out yesterday on the new badlands...
But one of the strapped tires came unstrapped so as i type this i am boiling it off the rim, and going to restrap it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4cgABVuSGs

Hey j1...
Thats a cool vid and all but that audio track can get you banned.

Just my two cents, bud.:woo:

[J1A1H]

sorry ive been away for a while... ill make up a new one

[Shaun]

with the power of a flux i imagine most tires are gonna blow when doing extreme donuts think of how much pressure that puts on the outer wall of the tire lol but i likely couldnt resist if i had one either!! lol

[J1A1H]

@ Shaun, this is very true but :Meh: ill just replace them as they blow...

So a little update on the truck and whats been going on.....
I have been having a lot of problems recently with my steering:
- Getting full throw (motor mount is in the way so needed to relocate the servo
- Stripping 2 alloys servo horns (dont know how)
- Ripped the plastic steering bar that connects to both steering rods and steering posts! (Replaced with a metal one and screws continouslly fall out!)

willl get pics of this up tonight.

Problems with the tranny holding together and pinions stripping:
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00314.jpg

Tires blowing
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00317.jpg

I also destroyed one of my HD Axle extenders (will get pics later) i think i overtightened the bolt and it just snapped off were the thread was!

Some pics of the truck at the moment

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00326.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00330.jpg
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00323.jpg

Too solve my Steering issues, i was going to get the Golden Horizons Steering Bell Crank Servo saver steering assembly... Has anyone got any comments to make on it? and where is the cheapest place to get one as they are quite expensive... ebay???

http://www.ghhobby.com/prodimages/2042.jpg

Also to avoid the problems i am currently having, i am looking into a Centre Diff and mount... Probably going to go with a slipperential. Should change the way the truck handles a little and also get rid of the weak tranny that keeps blowing. If it cant handle the 6s how will it handle 9s!!!!!

Anyway here is a new extremely short vid of the truck at the woods near me. I only got 3 jumps in before the steering assembly broke on me! But the day before i was doing 10-12ft high jumps and experiencing very bad landings and everything was fine on the truck. Its holding up to abuse very very well... The only weakpoints i have found currently are the steering and tranny.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mS9ziX12FaM

[J1A1H]

Got some more pics... And need some help...

Anyway here is the result after overtightening the nut on my axle... Drove 10 seconds and literally fell off.

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00408.jpg

I have been having bad steering problems recently... Mainly because my motor mount is getting in the way of my servo horn. So i had to move my servo outside of the TVPs... So i had to do a custom temporary job and wondering what else i could use which is stronger and more reliable... Some pics of what i have had to do...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00339.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00340.jpg

I was also experiencing steering throw problems and found out i was being obstructed by my steering bar... So i found where it was hitting and dremeled it to work properly... here is what the after math after one cart wheel

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00409.jpg

This is why i have decided to go with the GH steering assembly....

But has anyone got any advice one what i can do to replace the temporary screw that goes between my servo saver and my servo? What other things would you use?

I am thinking once i put my centre diff in and mount the motor off the motor plate, then i will be able to return the steering servo back within the tvps and use the stock connecting arm, but for now i need something else.

[J1A1H]

A few things just to liven this post up a bit...

Here is my temporary steering assembly. I made it out of combining a GPM Steering assembly and the stock servo saver. I will be using this till i have funds to get the GH Assembly...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00411.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00413.jpg

My new tyres just for jumping purposes... My smaller wheels do not have the weight to give me good control over the length of the truck in the air... I originally ordered Joes but these MOABS came by accident. I dont really care now and i think the moabs have a thicker side wall for soaking up heavy landings correct?

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00424.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00425.jpg

After a bash on the weekend and after a bad crash (will get the vid up later)

I shredded my pinion if you can see it in the pic below...
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00426.jpg

And i am not entirely sure, but my rear shock tower shouldnt be bent this far forward correct?

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00427.jpg

Is it time for a new one?

[fluxinator]

The shock tower looks ok.

And man i have never seen soo many striped gears in one single post

[J1A1H]

see... no one believes that i am having serious problems with gears! I ask people what the hardest gears are... i buy them and then strip them within 5 runs!

[frddyj]

see... no one believes that i am having serious problems with gears! I ask people what the hardest gears are... i buy them and then strip them within 5 runs!


Actually, I'd have a harder time believing it if you didnt' have problems with gears.

They take certain aspects into consideration when they engineer parts for a stock r/c and the further you take it away from stock & change things such as: Weight, torque, speed, etc, the more issues you will run into.

For some of us, running into these issues and then finding ways to overcome them is the most enjoyable part of the hobby. Welcome to the world of Savage :jamout:

[J1A1H]

dont get me wrong frddy, im not hating on this hobby at all...

I know exactly what needs to be done to to prevent all these problems, or reduce this problem.

These stripped gears was a result of me landing a jump on power.

Im hoping with my new fat wheels that ill be able to do some standing xxl back flips.

I think its time to on the punch control... Maybe 80% should be good...

I am going to get a new pinion and get a plastic spur. Its easier and cheaper to change spurs when bashing. Pinion causes too many problems.

Just need to get this centre diff done when i have some monies :(
Although i break gears often, i want to try and make the gears very quickly and easily accessible, so gears can be swapped quickly on site and wont ruin my time bashing.

[frddyj]

dont get me wrong frddy, im not hating on this hobby at all...

yeah i dint think you were hatin'

i see that youre a guy that likes to test his ideas, use different parts, likes to build/tinker/change up & all that.

your savage is different from any other ive seen.

i 'ground up' built mine also so i could choose the best parts but i kept weight and gearing as close to stock flux as possible (just a personal preference) but being able to make choices like that is what makes me a savage-lover. :lamb:

[J1A1H]

Thank you for the kind words frddy...

Anyway just bought a few things... Want to keep all this up to date. I also need to think out loud and work out what else i need to get...

Purchased today...
- 2x 47t HPI Plastic Spurs ( i thought i would give these ago before the centre diff upgrade. Im tired of changing pinions and would prefer to change spurs.
- Gorilla Tape - hopefully this works better at strapping my tyres
- 40 series Moabs - only for jumping
- Axial over size in black - only for jumping
- Extra 29t idler tranny gear - i feel that i have been lucky as no gears have broken in the last 7 runs :) apart from my pinion
- Extra 32t drive tranny gear
- Extra wheel nuts

Things to order. Starting with the most vital:

- SHD Drive shafts
- SHD wheel Axles
- SHD Diff Axles

- Ofna spider centre diff 46t
- RCM Universal CD/Motor Mount
- 12t pinion
- Custom centre drive shafts
- Custom Plate For RCM Mount to bolt too.
- 80k CD diff fluid

- GH Steering assembly
- Racers Edge alloy servo horn

- Full BOCA Bearing Upgrade (not sure which ones) but im not going to skimp on quality here. my bearings are failing pretty quickly

ICE HV 160 ESC (MMMXL)
Hyperion lipos
- 1x 5s 5000MAH+ 35C
- 2x 2s 5000MAH+ 35c
= 9s

-GH Bulks? dont want to add more weight if i can help it. I think the Diffs will need to be soild so no movement is incurred when using 9s. I have a feeling my diffs will be the weak point.

- Decent Hyperion Charge duo

Anyone else see anything i should be adding which i do not have already?

[88gtanotchback]

looks lieka nice little list of parts you got there bud. why not a 4s and a 5s pack to run 9s?

[J1A1H]

I will have to put the 5s within the chassis were i currently hold my lipos, and i will reinstall my battery boxes and place a 2s lipo in each one.

[J1A1H]

im in the process of tearing the truck down completely as its time for a full service... As we have had some very nice weather, i am doing my rebuild outside. Its a bit of a mess but here is my temporary outdoor workstation

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00430.jpg


I found that all most of my bearings require changing or a clean. So i cleaned the ones which work and corrosion x'ed them.

I found one of my diff bearings had seized!!!! Very bad!!! So i think its nearly time for a full Boca Bearing upgrade...

Also here are pics of my pinion which completely disintegrated...


http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00431.jpg



And i also somehow destroyed my fronot pinion of my so called "BULLET PROOF" Diffs gears!!!

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00428.jpg


Here is both from a front view...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00433.jpg


I have now managed to buy a replacement single BP Pinion from ebay from a guy called ianwhorlow (uk ebay name) He is amazing! i asked him if he could do it and he said sure. Charged me 9 pounds! I am happy with that considering you cant get them separately from HPI... I will call HPI tomorrow and tell them about it, hopefully they will send me a new one!


I also bought 4 new drive shafts and 4 XL SHD Drive shafts for 30pounds which i am quite happy about... considering they have a UK Value of around #80 Pounds!


Hopefully this will be running by next weekend

[J1A1H]

ran my truck this weekend with the BIG MOABS for the first time...
Dida few backflips and double back flips for the first time... Its crazy seeing something so big do backflips....

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Before running this weekend i put on a brand new HPI 17t pinion ( i geared down a little for the moabs) I ran two packs of liposon saturday and 2 yesterday... half way though my second lipo i stripped the brand new HPI Pinion again!!!

It wore down extremely quickly!!! Terrible!

[J1A1H]

OK Centre diff is my next custom thing to carry out... I was originally going to use the RCM Universal mount but it just doesnt convince me that the motor will not rip from the mount on an extremely bad landing... This is a savage and has been and will jump even higher!

So thanks to _DV for a little inspiration who is customising his savage at the moment, i have decided to use his idea for the centre diff.

The only reason i am using it is because IMO it is the BEST!
No more willi need to take off the side chassis plates to work on the savage...
If i want to work on the motor, i can just unscrew it from the side of the TVP, if i want to work on the diff, just drop it from below. Obviously its hard to picture what i am getting at, but you will all see once the work starts...

List of things i am buying for this...

- Ofna 6 spider diff from Singlechamp on this site. I was going to go with the slipperential, but i didnt think it was as tough as having 6 bevel gears. (my motor likes to break gears and diffs)
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/bennjm23/P1020875.jpg

- This will be the diff mount i use... $10!!!
# ED010131 - HB Lightning Alloy Centre Diff Mounts (Buggy, RR & Pro)

http://www.rc-edit.com/graphics/parts/ed010131/ed010131_01.jpg

Because i am getting rid of the motor plate and the transmission, i will be losing a lot of structural rigidity. So i will be re enforcing the chassis with braces utilising the exisiting holes for the plate and tranny....

- # ED010581 - Aluminium Joint Bar Set (All Savage Series)
http://www.rc-edit.com/graphics/parts/ed010581/ed010581_02.jpg

I will be making a custom diff mount plate out of 4mm aluminium which i think should be strong enough. The Diff mounts will be bolted to this plate and the braces attatched to it.

I will fit it to the chassis in a way that i can maintain useablility of my current rear drive shaft, but i will still need one custom drive shaft for the front...

It would be better to have a longer drive shaft at the front... correct as a lot of stress is put on the rear shaft.

[88gtanotchback]

love the ever changing truck. looks like some nice stuff going in there!

[J1A1H]

Thanks 88... my savage is temporarily down for a while till i finish the centre diff conversion....

But i thought i would update y'all with my latest vid with the HAYMONSTER!

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[J1A1H]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LvDEGlTetw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LvDEGlTetw)

Psh:Meh: sometimes i can embed a video and other times i cant...

[J1A1H]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LvDEGlTetw

[bookemdan-0]

that truck will be insane, love it. cant wait to see some videos.
ps. thanks for the info.

[J1A1H]

latest video here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LvDEGlTetw

[J1A1H]

Yo... Guys... After my last run on saturday doing jumps, i noticed a perculier sound coming from the diffs, and then before you knew it i had thought i had stripped my BP Diffs...

Upon inspection and checking them yesterday... this was found to be NOT the case... My ring and pinion are absolutely fine... So what happend???

All 4 screws backed out of the diff casing holding the ring gear on.... What was the result??? psh... look at these pics...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00482.jpg




Crazy!!! So i was then thinkinig... where the hell is the 4th screw head? I looked everywhere in the diff grease and couldnt feel or see it......

Where did i find it in the end??? Check this pic of the bulk head. And notice the groove cut out by the screws that muse have slided it up upon backing out...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00483.jpg




I am happy as no gears were damaged, and it shows that you really should not get any diff oil in teh screw holes or the loc tite wont work...

I knew this but i was in a rush to get it running....

I know the inside of the bulks are destroyed, but i really want to run this weekend so i am going to give it a go... if it works, then great... if not, then what ever... but i think its time for some GH Alloy Bulks (but no deniro at the moment so will have to do with stock...)

[88gtanotchback]

lol nice carnage. damn that oozing fluid into the screw holes huh?

[notched306]

latest video here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LvDEGlTetw

sick truck man,i love it

[J1A1H]

Started my Centre Diff Conversion... Ive been rushing the work so it hasnt been so accurate but it will work well once i am finished...

Ok So i am using a 4mm alloy plate as the base plate...
Here are some pics of my progress so far...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00486.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00487.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00488.jpg

I will get fitment finalised properly tomorrow...
then
find the best mounting between the tvps which allows me to utilise my originial front drive shaft so i will only need to get one custom rear drive shaft made up.

[J1A1H]

I made some progress today... I have mounted the diff to the TVPs and worked out i need a 16.5cm Rear drive shaft made up...
I also cut a alloy plate which will act as my motor plate and will be bolted to the side of the TVPs...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00498.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00497.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00494.jpg

This is how the motor plate may look with the motor attached to the plate...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00496.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/DSC00500.jpg

[J1A1H]

After the whole truck is completed and ready, i will get all the alloy re anodized in orange... I may keep the TVPs black though, but they definitely need to be re done!!!

[savageboi]

Hey Josh. Man your truck is SICK!!! That's all! Lol

[J1A1H]

Thanks man!!!
Here is an update

hopefully it will influence it in a good way...

Tiny update.. things are moving slow but at least they are moving...

I have now managed to mount the motor to the plate. Wasnt the cleanest job, but it does the job. Some pics for all yall :)

In this image... you can see where i had to cut some slots in the tvps for the motor mounts to slide down enough to provide the right mesh.
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-05203448.jpg

You can see what i mean in this pic below
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-05203521.jpg

All connected with a nice mesh
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-05203557.jpg

You can see how thick the alloy plate is... must offer a little structural rigidity to the tvps considering i have chopped them up a little bit
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-05203741.jpg

This is what it looks from the outside...
I know i know, it ugly... But what i will do now as its all fitted... i will sand the edges smooth and angle them towards the chassis, and i will paint any alloy bits black for now, so it all blends with the tvps. Anyway this will be covered by the lipo boxes soon... 9s here i come :)
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-09092351.jpg

What it looks like on the inside all assembled
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-09092308.jpg

And my new Rear drive shaft sent from Chris at GCM... Thanks buddy!!! arrived quickly and fits perfectly! Legend!
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-09092522.jpg

I had to cut a little away from my batter tray as the thick centre part was hitting it slightly... not a big issue though and was expected.
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-09092458.jpg


What was causing me big problems was finding a strong enough, and the correct length which was long enough to give me full steering, but short enough as to clear the motor mount.. so i decided to make my own. Yes its ugly again, but as long as it does the job... i dont care...
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-09092245.jpg



Still waiting on my alloy bulks and other little things... but its coming together!!! Enjoy :)

[J1A1H]

all the alloy is badly scratched up now... i think i will be getting all the alloy re anodized at some point... gd idea? or maybe ill bash the hell out of it before i get it done :)

[J1A1H]

Yesterday something i have been waiting for to arrive fell through my letterbox after paying $20 customs.... Something shiny and pretty

My New Bulk Heads!!! From GoldenHorizons... MY GOD THEY ARE BEAUTIFUL!!!! and cant wait to fit them
Should stop any flex at all between my diff gears and my bearings should last longer.
And now i have these, my truck is basically ready for 9s!!!!

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-12202618.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-12202641.jpg

once i have her all together and abused her quite a bit... i will be getting all the alloy re anodized in orange!!! :P

[J1A1H]

update on the build...

Things have been going very slow recently... just got back from holiday, now i am busy at work, then i am off this weekend. So just never have time for the truck...

I have been putting her slowly back together and while she is apart, im cleaning everything and building her completely from the ground up.
Changing all the fluids and bearings etc...
Decided to run 30k rear 50k front and 50k centre for now.

There is still a lot of work to do and i am running into minor difficulties, and hopefully with my build, others will be aware if one is doing something similar

Here are some pictures and also i need some help and advice on some problems which will be stated below
I thought i would take loads of pics, post them as i know things wont look this shiny or clean for a long while till i get everything re anodized in 3-4 months time. So i am taking the opportunity to take loads of pictures.

Stock Shock Tower
GH Bulks (yes they work with the flux)
BP Diffs w/ 30k diff oil (rear)
HD Centre Axle
Gorilla snawt for grease and some very nice bearings for the diffs and my RSC Hubs...
I cant believe how amazing these bulks are... the diffs have a great soild mesh with a ridiculously smooth movement!!! SO SO HAPPY!

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-24212817.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-24212724.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-24212744.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-24212801.jpg

Ok so the problems i am having... Small problems but im sure there are ways around them....
1. The Savage suspension conversion upper arm mount (http://www.hpieurope.com/graphics/parts/87245/86374_02p.jpg) does not work with these bulks due to the design(stock upper arms obviously do).
You cannot use stock upper arms with the savage suspension conversion because the rear alloy hubs protrude towards the bulks too much. Anyway, it means i need to utilise the upper arms that come with the conversion but using the stock mounting method. This isnt a problem... but there is something i need in order to make it work.
The picture below explains what i need. Could someone help me out and find the bits i need that fit into the plastic upper arm bits and perfectly accommodate the size of the stock upper arm pin please?

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/RSCKit.jpg

So that is my first problem... i then ran into my next problem which involves the HPI Anti Roll bar... Here are some more pictures, and you may be able to spot what i am on about... If not, just keep reading

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-24223046.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-24223003.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-24223145.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-24223345.jpg

Ok from the pictures you can see that i should be able to mount the plastic shield that holds the ARB in position. There are even holes for screws for the plastic shield to be held in place.... BUT THE HOLES ARE NOT THREADED!!!! so does this mean i should just thread some holes my self??? I know not many of you have the GH Bulks, but some do and if you have encountered this problem, please show me the way....

Last few pics i promise....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-24224638.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-08-24224613.jpg

So...

Just to recap, i have 2 problems... the upper arm problem and the ARB screw hole problem... Any advice about the ARB or links to where i can get the right size collers for the upper arm pins?
I will continue with the build, but need all these little things to complete it...
RAN OUT OF BLUE LOC TITE TOO!!!! need some of that.... OH and i am about of diff gaskets, so need some of them too...

[frddyj]

sway bar problem seems an easy fix by tapping the hole? :dunno:

[JoeGuam]

Humm maybe take a look at HPI 85066 in place of the ones you are having problems with. I am building another truck with spare parts and those work using the double stock shocks so it might work work. I also tried it with the big bores and stock and FLM bulks and it worked. I do not have them bulks so I am only saying it MIGHT work.

[JoeGuam]

1. The Savage suspension conversion upper arm mount (http://www.hpieurope.com/graphics/parts/87245/86374_02p.jpg) does not work with these bulks due to the design(stock upper arms obviously do).
You cannot use stock upper arms with the savage suspension conversion because the rear alloy hubs protrude towards the bulks too much. Anyway, it means i need to utilise the upper arms that come with the conversion but using the stock mounting method. This isnt a problem... but there is something i need in order to make it work.
The picture below explains what i need. Could someone help me out and find the bits i need that fit into the plastic upper arm bits and perfectly accommodate the size of the stock upper arm pin please?

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/RSCKit.jpg

i. is HPI 86144 Ball 6.8x8x3mm (4pcs)

[J1A1H]

@frddy - did you fit your sway bars with the GH Bulks? I guess i can tap the hole, shouldnt be too much of a problem... One guy said, if i dont have the tools or the time to get it done, then just use a self tapping screw???

@joe - Thanks for the help buddy.... i already have hpi HPI 85066 but it is not possible to use them as there is just not enough adjustablity there... so i have to use the stock RSC parts and just find a HPI 86144 Ball 6.8x8x3mm which has a larger inner diemeter so the stock upper arm pin can fit through it.... Frddy did you run into this problem??? and what did you do about it?

Do hpi make a ball thing which is has the same outer diameter as HPI 86144 Ball 6.8x8x3mm but with a larger inner diameter?

I have never come across one?

Thanks

[frddyj]

not sure.

i dont have the sway bars or the RSC on mine.

[J1A1H]

ok well its not much hassle anyway...

ill just make my own thread for the sway bar, and i will find the right sized ball stuf for the job

[frddyj]

so how you liking the way those diffs and diff cups dropped right in?

nice fit eh? i dint even shim mine.

[JESTUS]

can the GH bulk be modded like Banks did the FLM bulk to use the RSC?

[88gtanotchback]

looking good bud, i bought a tap and die set from Canadian tire and i've put a lot of miles on it since. great investment for the hobby.

[what the FLUX]

Comin along very nicely J. HPI 85066 adjustable upper arms, if you can't find pivot balls with a 4mm I.D.

[J1A1H]

absolutely amazing frddy!!!

They are smooth like butter... no play at all... I didnt have to use a shim but i used a single shim anyway on the ring gear side to get a tighter mesh with the pinion.

I have only found two problems with it..

You cannot use the RSC conversion upper arm brace. There are easy ways around this anyway.
The HPI Sway bar attachment points are not threaded...

those are the only problems i could find, and bare in mind, not many people use the RSC with this but i feel the sway bar holes shoiuld have at least been threaded

[J1A1H]

jestus... i dont think you can modify the bulk enough to get the RSC upper arm brace to fit.

88... it is about time i get my self one as i do frequently find myself needing to thread new holes occasisonally... but what sizes should i be going for that suit an RC hobby???

whattheflux... the adjustable upper arms do not work as they dont offer enough adjustability... i already have them and tried it out and it doesnt work :(

[frddyj]

I didnt have to use a shim but i used a single shim anyway on the ring gear side to get a tighter mesh with the pinion.


keep a close eye on it. the bp diffs dont want to be shimmed as tight as their predecessors.

prolly be fine but maybe inspect after a couple runs.

[88gtanotchback]

i just bought a kit of a bunch of sizes. so far i havent had an issue with it. keep up the great work on your ever changing truck

[J1A1H]

will do frddy... the truck always comes apart after a few runs anyway for quick maintenance.....

Cheers 88!!! i cant wait to get it back into one truck!!!!... when you say you have a bunch of sizes... what do you mean?
The ball studs i need need to have a 4mm inner diemeter as the stock upper arm pins are 4mm... Are these actually available anywhere? i cant seem to find them... :-/

[what the FLUX]

You should try to get the arm braces to fit, it the main reason for getting the rsc imo.

3-5mm should cover most of your RC needs. I got a cheap metric tap & die set M3-M8 at my local hardware for $10, it does the job.

If you can't get the upper arm brace to fit, once you get a tap set you could try cutting the inside 1/2 of the adjustable arms shorter, don't think you'd need to take much off, drill it (4mm bit) & tap it 5mm(M5), and you should be laughin.

[J1A1H]

I know i really should get the arm braces to fit for the RSC... but its impossible without grinding through the bulk head...

I have a new idea for body protection, and i am considering using the Hellfire towers as they have lower a arm mounting positions...the only reason i never wanted to fit them before is as we all know, shock towers must be able to flex, but as i am not going to use the shock towers as body mounts, i may be fine. This is looking like the only way around this at the moment...

Im going to sleep on it and see what i decide

[frddyj]

I know i really should get the arm braces to fit for the RSC... but its impossible without grinding through the bulk head...

I have a new idea for body protection, and i am considering using the Hellfire towers as they have lower a arm mounting positions...the only reason i never wanted to fit them before is as we all know, shock towers must be able to flex, but as i am not going to use the shock towers as body mounts, i may be fine. This is looking like the only way around this at the moment...

Im going to sleep on it and see what i decide

the metal hellfire towers suck caz they bend when you bash.

but

i sent larsen a shocktower a while back and he offers the hellfire towers in his sweet carbon-fiber :jamout:

[J1A1H]

i know hellfire tower suck... i know any alloy tower sucks if you are a basher....

But thats only if you use the towers at body mounts too....

Im making my own roll cage that bolts to the tvps and dooes not connect with the towers so all should be all right as they will never take any force from bad landings...

[frddyj]

But thats only if you use the towers at body mounts too.....

nah, thats not the only place they bent on the hellfire. they twist like a warm pretzel on the ears where the shock mounts to it. might be ok with the roll cage if your takin contact point out of play but they are also extremely thin compared to a savage tower and the savage is at least double the weight of the vehicle they were intended to be used on.

another dude here made a big thread a while back on puttin em on his savage - ran em for like 5 minutes. not tryin to pop your balloon, just sayin' dont expect much from them.

[J1A1H]

well i am fully aware that PRC are doing some nice ones... i would ideally prefer to keep the use of the stock plastic towers... but i feel in order to get the most out of the rsc, i should be mounting the upper arms lower as they should be rather than using the stock mounting point...
I am away this weekend so ill think about it when i get back...

[what the FLUX]

That's a great idea J, the hellfire tower would definitely be worth trying.

[J1A1H]

Ok ive been working on getting the truck into one piece this weekend... It has been apart for so long. The centre diff is complete, and i have put the lipo boxes on as i am prepping for 9s... And also made a start on my own custom nylon roll cage... Its not completed yet as i still have to make the front shock tower protection and after thats completed, i will be setting the camber and shimming my axles and other little things like meshing the motor and CD....

Tell me what you think?

First... I bought a cheap tap screw set to try and tap the bulks for my sway bars... anyway that didnt work so i improvised... It works and will hold for the time being... Not pretty but i dont care.. i just want to run teh truck

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-11133128.jpg

Made an internal lipo stop. Will prevent the lipo flying into the centre diff...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-11133156.jpg


Ok the pics of my cage....

How it started...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-12152928.jpg

I attached the nylon to the bumpers... this way, force is transferred to either bumper rather than the TVPs or anything else...
To hold the screws in place, as to not rip the plastic bumper, i used a small alloy plate....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-12152945.jpg

Making the rear shock tower part of the cage...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-12173353.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-12173409.jpg

And thats where i got to today... The rear needs a little more support, but i stopped early as i was getting tired, and didnt want to mess up the job...

Here are some more pics

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-12190421.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-12190513.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-12190607.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-12190626.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-12190658.jpg

I havent got a picture yet, but i have put all my weight on it although its not finished. It does take a lot of force but with a lot of flex absorbing the impact.

Thanks Mainst for the inspiration.... You know you would have had my business if it were not due to my chassis... :wink:

Will keep you posted as to what it will look like when finished...

[Crash]

real nice

drummerguy

[JoeGuam]

Looks like a winner Josh. Let us know how it holds up.

[what the FLUX]

very cool Josh, well done

[J1A1H]

cheers guys!!! its not completed yet, more to come on the cage... the truck still needs work done... suspension is sitting way too low and camber isnt correct bla bla bla...

[savageboi]

Josh every time i check this thread something awesome is going on lol. looking good mate. keep us posted on how it holds up.

[J1A1H]

cheers mate!!! mucho appreciated! Check back soon!

[JoeGuam]

Have you used the SPI wheels yet? I see the roll cage with just wheels and the tire look brand new. Send the rims my way and I will make use of it. :Mr.confused: :beer:

[J1A1H]

ha of course i have joe... i have put these tyres through a set of dirt claws and these are my second set of badlands... PSH come on bud, you have seen me use them already...

[J1A1H]

small update to the cage...
still not completed but it is very strong now whlist maintaining a lot of flex... I can now put all my body weight on it...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-14215808.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-14215828.jpg


These are the rear supports. They are very strong but offer a lot of flex to a point

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-14215913.jpg


The cage isnt finished yet... should be done in the next few days...

[J1A1H]

Cage Update...

I have spent enough time on the cage now and the final part didnt come out how i would have hoped for...

i thought the cage would have looked better.....

I bought some 2mm nylon sheeting and this stuff is very strong, flexible stuff!!!

i'll let the pics do the talking....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-18161605.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-18161539.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-18161659.jpg


as you can see the cage does not look great at all!!! and it just obscures my ease of accessing the internals of the truck...

so i thought i would remove the large centre cover part, and leave the front shock tower cover on to protect and offer some form of aerodynamic down force at high speeds (if it works)....



http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-18163902.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-18163914.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-09-18163924-1.jpg


I would prefer to run the cage as is but the front shock tower support should offer some form of protection...

Plus i spent quite a bit of time on it, and so i dont want to remove all my wasted work....

I am going to make some rear A arm deflector things out of the nylon, should be robust and protect the rear a little...

[frddyj]

josh , dont know if i missed this already being asked, but how come external battery boxes on a dessert boy?

im thinkin of grabbing a set of the batt box mounts gcm makes.

[J1A1H]

frddy, im making this my speed machine... im makinig a second basher.

So the lipo boxes have been installed, readily waiting the new MMMHV and 9s setup for big speed runs... Thats why i got the GH Bulks for handling the power and removed the gearbox as that definitely wouldnt last long

[frddyj]

oic, so you needed space for extra packs. cool.

[J1A1H]

yeap... i was thinking of getting some more hyperions, but after i have seen how bad their soldering is on my current packs, i thought i would try out 3x 3s 5000mah 45c/90c nano tech packs from hobby king.... People seem to like the punch they offer...

worth a try... also the extra weight of the packs in the lipo boxes up front should keep the wheelies down too

[frddyj]

what esc you gonna get to handle the voltage?

[J1A1H]

castle are releasing 2 new escs within the next 2months (they say that, but i expect them to release in the next 4months..)

The escs will be similar to the ice HV escs they offer already but these will be specific for cars and trucks. They will utilise motor breaks and the usual MMM custom-able settings...

the first esc releasing supposedly on time will be an 8s ESC, the second one which they are supposedly having a few little problems with is able to handle 12s with mechanical brakes or 10s with motor brakes.

[frddyj]

sounds pretty beefy, you wouldn't happen to have a link ?

[J1A1H]

i know you dont like me linking you to other sites, but this is the only place that it has been talked about...

There is no info on castle sites yet... the castle representatives have just been keeping people informed on forums...

Here is some info quoted by Patrick at castle

"The low voltage (8S) ICE will be available in a 150A and 200A.

The high voltage (12s) ICE will be available in a 125A and 160A.

The low voltage ICE will probably be limited to 6s in car applications -- the switching BEC is similar to the one used in the MMP. Even though it is rated for 60V operation, the braking energy can still be an issue.

The HV ICE doesn't have a BEC (it is Opto) so will probably still be good up to 12S. We still have to do some stress testing (especially on braking) once the software is done, to verify that it will work up to full voltage as a car version...


Patrick"

If you want to see what they are talking about and take a quick skim, go for it... if you dont want the link up just remove pls

Phoenix ICE HV Car software Link
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24497

[88gtanotchback]

doesnt look bad at all Josh. I say good on ya for trying the cage yourself. for high speed run do you need a cage tho? I would think the basher should get the extra weight/protection.

[J1A1H]

on huge tumbles at high speed, my shell kept on getting ripped right off and damaging my shock towers. so 9s will definitely need a cage.

My basher will get a cage as well :) i just believe a cage like this is a good idea as i cant keep on going through bodies every 10 runs or less...

[J1A1H]

Took the truck out today but it got dark very quickly... so only 2 very short vids of it performing...
BTW this is on my weak 6s lipos... should be a whole new game on the hyperion 6s

I need stiffer diff oil when oil surfaces like grass and dirt, but 50k diff oil seems to be fine on pavement... As you can see... wheelies very easily!

Sorry i uploaded to photobucket instead of youtube as it was quicker from my phone.

At night

http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/?action=view&current=video-2010-09-23-19-27-16.mp4

Sliding around in my little garden

http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/?action=view&current=video-2010-09-23-18-24-11.mp4

mind the terrible driving, just trying to flip it and slide it... It is very planted!!! and turns in better than before... i like this setup!

I think the 100k diff oil is still needed for the centre diff
And i will be running it tomorrow in more space with badlands on front and back... more vids will follow

Also, i just placed an order for another neu 1520!!! got it for $95 posted from castle!!! CANT BEAT A MOVING SALE!

[frddyj]

Lol, that thing rips so hard on 6s, 9s is prolly gonna do somethin like launch it into a time warp 50 years from now.


truck is rippin' great.

love the garden.

[J1A1H]

Ran the truck on the weekend with a few other guys...

Didnt get much footage but got one shot of my savage jumping... nothing too big as this was my first jump... But after a few more jumps, i was going as far as that tree you can see in the distance...

My Jump (http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/?action=view&current=andy-msukbashno13clip3joshandchrisjump.mp4)

After the day, i suffered one bit of damage which was a broken lipo box mount... So the legend Chris at GCM hooked me up with some of these sexy things

http://gcmachine.ca/images/fbmo003.jpg

Thanks a lot for the deal Chris!

As i also have no lipos at the moment i decided to temporarily get some lipos to keep me running... So i have bought some turnigy 40c 5000mah 3s lipos X2

im just waiting for the new MMMXL before i pick up some Nanotechs...
I actually tested some nanotechs on the weekend and they were great performing lipos for the price, but the performance compared to my 35c 6500mah hyperion lipos was nearly as good but they just didnt have the punch although they are rated at 90c compared the 65c punch of the hyperions. But for the price of $57 you cannot complain!

[frddyj]

ive had my eye on those. $60 tho, heavy hit.

[J1A1H]

It had to be done frddy! i have no other options, and i dont have enough time to make my own out of some 4mm alloy...

Chris hooked me up with a nice deal as i have had him make a lot of stuff for me thus far, so couldnt pass on the deal i got.

[frddyj]

ya i'll get over it at some point and get em. looks sweet.

[savageboi]

nice! hey where abouts is this? its that i rollerblade aswell would like to rip up them ramps.

[J1A1H]

its just out of london at Wellyn Garden City... just a park with some ramps... i love the way you can launch out of the park and land on the grass... some of my other jumps were just ridiculous, but no one caught in on camera... everyone was too busy running their trucks!

[savageboi]

looks like a sick spot to skate and bash! lol. I have found an abandoned quarry in Hertfordshire. Its sick and in the wood there are a shed load of ramps. Il try and get some pics next time im there.

[J1A1H]

Oh mate!!! you should mention this on MSUK! we can all meet in that location! have an epic day out?!

[pdh 14a]

That is a stunning looking truck mate!

[J1A1H]

thanks a lot bud! appreciate it!
Welcome to the forum!!!

[what the FLUX]

Hey Josh, is that 6mm mesh you used on the motor and battery leads? I wanna get some too.:thumb:

[J1A1H]

It may be 8mm.... i cant honestly remember.. I bought a whole load from hobby king and just used what ever could get over the ends... But what i noticed is that i used larger mesh, even on servo wires as i couldnt fit the smaller mesh over the servo connectors.... The ideal method would be to slide the mesh over the wire before you solder the connectors on... Ill do this correctly at some point...

[JoeGuam]

[/QUOTE]i love the ti turnbuckles!

One problem i have been having recently though is with the plastic turnbuckle/tie rod ends not holding their shape. After a few cartwheels, the ends holding the ball joints, start to stretch and sag, causing play in the steering.... I dont know if other people have this problem, but this can occur after one large cartwheel or single, front wheel landing...

I guess thiis is good as it takes some strain away from the servo, but i am continuouslly replacing them to remove the slop...

Sorry for my rant, i just want to see if others experience this too?[QUOTE]

Josh I have encountered the problem early on with my Savage. What help me eleviate the problem from occuring sooner than most is I adjusted the servo nut.

Explaination
I adjusted the nut fastened about 19mm from bulkhead lower plate. Not to tight that when you do cart wheels the pinions in the servo strips and/or the plastic rod end get bent/strecthed. I have the nut tighten enough so the servo spring absorbs the trust and enough to turn the wheels of 13.4 lbs truck at a stand still using the DS1015.

Last important thing I did was make sure the servo rod is straight from the servo arm to the servo saver. It saved me alot of maintenance and time.

[J1A1H]

thanks a lot joe... i guess my servo saver is locked all the way down at the moment...

I understand your explaination but i do not understand the servo rod? Do you mean from the servo arm to the servo saver?

[JoeGuam]

thanks a lot joe... i guess my servo saver is locked all the way down at the moment...

I understand your explaination but i do not understand the servo rod? Do you mean from the servo arm to the servo saver?

Yes the rod that connects the servo arm and servo saver together.

[J1A1H]

cheers joe... ill give it a go..

[what the FLUX]

It may be 8mm.... i cant honestly remember.. I bought a whole load from hobby king and just used what ever could get over the ends... But what i noticed is that i used larger mesh, even on servo wires as i couldnt fit the smaller mesh over the servo connectors.... The ideal method would be to slide the mesh over the wire before you solder the connectors on... Ill do this correctly at some point...

Yeah I'm gonna get them from HK too. Isn't there much stretch in the mesh. I read the reveiws on the HK site and they said they were stretchy. So the 3mm wont go over the servo connectors, what if I put shrink wrap over the connectors to made it slide on easier/smoother.

Also want to get one of these 3S x 2 spliters
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=10993
and some 8awg wire and EC5 connectors, the Deans plugs get very warm on mine.:blpower:

[J1A1H]

the mesh does have a lot of flex but the openings only stretch so far.... Considering they are so cheap... definitely buy a range of sizes!!! Just in case....

I have never seen those splitters before!!! look awesome!!! but i dont really like those xt60 connectors :-/
my power unit can supply 20amps so i am thinking of just buying two 10amp chargers from HK and then just charge lipos that way.... but then i couold then use these connecters and charge 4 lipos at the same time!!!

[what the FLUX]

A couple of quote about the mesh from the HK site:

"Our Wire Mesh Guard is an excellent way to protect servo leads or battery wires.
The mesh expands to 4x original size and comes in a variety of colours"

"Cool stuff, works like chinese finger cuffs, push together to enlarge"

[J1A1H]

it does expand 4 times it size when you push it together... but you cant expand the ends in that manner...

[frddyj]

A couple of quote about the mesh from the HK site:

"Our Wire Mesh Guard is an excellent way to protect servo leads or battery wires.
The mesh expands to 4x original size and comes in a variety of colours"

"Cool stuff, works like chinese finger cuffs, push together to enlarge"

the mesh is great. use it for heli's. there is a great company in the USA that sells the stuff in all colors very reasonably priced, fast ship :salute:

[J1A1H]

can the prices get much better than HK?? got a link to that site?

[frddyj]

prolly not cheaper than hk but you get the pleasure of not buying from a company that rips off the rest of the world, lol.

as far as the end, they do expand like the rest of the mesh than you just put a piece of shrink tube on the end.

[what the FLUX]

it does expand 4 times it size when you push it together... but you cant expand the ends in that manner...

ah, ok, why not?

the mesh is great. use it for heli's. there is a great company in the USA that sells the stuff in all colors very reasonably priced, fast ship :salute:

Hong Kong's closer to oz so shippings less, but thanks anyway

can the prices get much better than HK?? got a link to that site?

yeah, 50c a metre is hard to beat


as far as the end, they do expand like the rest of the mesh than you just put a piece of shrink tube on the end.

enough to get a servo connectors thru on 3mm mesh?

[J1A1H]

when you push the mesh wire together, the mesh has the ability to expand due to the design of the mesh... but on the end of the mesh... you cannot compress it together because it is the end. So it only expands so far... a 3mm mesh will not expand enough to get over a servo connector. You will need to remove the end, slide the mesh over and then re solder the servo end...

[88gtanotchback]

One problem i have been having recently though is with the plastic turnbuckle/tie rod ends not holding their shape. After a few cartwheels, the ends holding the ball joints, start to stretch and sag, causing play in the steering.... I dont know if other people have this problem, but this can occur after one large cartwheel or single, front wheel landing...


Ya i just blew all my ends out yesterday. everything held up fin but these. they are now ovals.....we really need an upgrade part. mind you i guess there needs to be a weak link somewhere, i just hate changing them. especially with ti turnbuckles because i actually want to reuse that part. lol. un-thread re-thread..

[what the FLUX]

ok so it wont stay expanded, you need to keep pressure on it. thanks Josh

[J1A1H]

A few things have arrived in the post...
Thought i would post them up....

My Neu 1520 Motor has arrived but i need to collect it from the Post office and pay a £15.00 customs charge which is annoying! £7 VAT and £8 Handling! talk about rip off on handling!

A few things regarding the tie rod ends have been discussed...
88 i believe i found a semi decent solution.
I have been having problems with my steering failing after large cartwheels etc... The stock HPI Savage tie rod ends are just not strong enough!
I even used alloy ends and you wont believe, but after a cartwheel i inspected the alloy rod end only to find the ball stud had been ripped out from the alloy!!!!!
So this is my new approach... i am also hoping in increases my steering furthur due to the bend as you can see in the pic below.

These are beefy mothers!!!! I cant see them flexing anytime soon! Espeically with my TI Turnbuckles :) They are from a hyper st... they are the rear upper arms!!! so should be extra tough for the steering

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-10-13102751.jpg


Also my Turnigy lipos arrived from HK! Ordered last tuesday and arrived wednesday after being sent out on friday from the German warehouse... Not too bad!

5000mah 40c 3s Lipos

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-10-13102730.jpg

Happy just to have some lipos working again!!!!

Im still waiting for castles new MMM HV to be released!!! getting impatient... this truck is so tame and controlled on 6s now thanks to the centre diff... i need to restore some mayham to the savage!

As some may know... i have been having problems with my hyperions failing because of their crappy amateur soldering.
Although i will never be purchasing hyperions again... it doesnt mean that i am not going to repair my current ones... I have found one dead cell, so i will remove and make it a 5s pack.

A friend of mine who also hates hyperion due to bad connection problems has just given my 2x2s 6500mah 35c lipos too.. So i will hopefully get them all working after i take them apart completely and resolder everything up... Which means i will be running 9s Hyperions!!! WOOP WOOP! ONLY IF THEY WORK THOUGH!

I may need some advice, on stripping packs down and re assembling them... they are definitely not the same as usual lipos i have seen having +terminals and -terminals on either end...
Anyone got any advice or know any good tutorials on repairing lipos and removing cells?

[88gtanotchback]

as for repairing lipos i have no idea, but those tierods look beefy. you will have to let me know how they work for ya. also i look forward to a review on the lipos. all cells were balanced on arrival?

[J1A1H]

Ok i ran the truck yesterday evening...

Those tie rods are awesome!!!! My steering is back to how it should be! very nice and tight!!! problem is because i ground of too much from the RSC Conversion on the knuckle, and the tie rods are doing such a good job... my drive shaft is popping out on one side occasionally... Nothing an O ring or two cannot fix on the diff side to push the shaft outwards a little...

So i definitely recommend these rods... BUT upon fitting, you do notice they hit on the hpi sway bars upon turning if you have them that is... But its a simple fix... just slide your sway bar mounts a little furthur inwards and dremel a little bit of the sway bar end to give a little clearance... minor problem really!

The lipos - upon arrival where all equally balanced at 3.87 a cell. They charged up and balanced absolutely fine.
The lipos... i didnt run so hard as i just wanted to break them in... But they gave me an awesome first run time... and held punch nearly all the way till LVC...

I am extremely happy with them! and i dont think i noticed much difference if any difference between these 40/50c lipos and the nanotech 45c/90c lipos i tried recently!!!!!

I will reveiw again as usually the first 10 cycles of these turnigys is where cells can fail or balancing causes problems... but i have already charged them for a second time and they were fine...

When they discharged after the first use... the cells were a little out of balance, but i found that to be a prob on all my lipos... It charged and balanced fine to 4.2V per cell!

[88gtanotchback]

good to hear its all working out for ya. those tie rod ends might be going on my trucks right shortly. beats the heck outta stockers.

[J1A1H]

if you feel you do not need the bend in the arm, you could always use a straight end from the adjustable upper arm instead... they are just as tough

[J1A1H]

Cheers Soro...

Anyway update...
Something nice arrived today from GCM! less than a week from canada to the UK

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-10-15104130.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-10-15104137.jpg

Hopefully this should cure my lipo mounts breaking when landing big jumps....


And here is an undeited vid i though i would upload... im just doing some testing to see if everything is fine before 9s becomes available...

Found one main problem... the drive shaft keeps popping out of the axle, so i need some o rings on the diff side to push the shaft into the axle a little more.... This is due to me being a fool and grinding a little too much off the knuckle on the savage suspension conversion.

Anyway, i think its running really nicely and corners really flat and drifts are fun in a Monster Truck!!!
It is lacking top end but the 9s will correct that :)

These are the results i found after inputting them into the calc

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/9sspec.jpg

Im most likely going to gear it down 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion so it runs a little cooler as the top speed will already be too hectic...

Here is the vid on 6s with the new 40c turnigy lipos... It was slippy out there

gxasmEERfoE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxasmEERfoE

[pdh 14a]

Wow,that looks a handfull mate,good work! :rock1:

[J1A1H]

Cheers pdh

Took the truck out today after i lost a screw in my steering assembly yesterday cutting my run short.

Today resulted in some carnage...

The rear left hub bearings blew completely... resulting in the SHD Axle no actually sitting on anything... Because i am a fool i decided to keep on running it resulting in the axle chewing up the hub...

So i have put a plastic hub on temporarily with a tie rod haha

Also i decided to do some speed runs with the moabs and i think the pinion had already worn a little too much... This resulted in the pinion blowing resulting in some CRAZY SPARK action and me hitting a bollard... no damage caused, only the pinion...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hew53NyAObo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hew53NyAObo

[what the FLUX]

Those 40c turnigy's pack a punch they are looking promising, keep us updated:blpower:
where's the beef... GCM batt box mounts
lacking top end :lmao:
Cool vids Josh, looked like you had a ball drifting on the grass, looked sick mate. :rock:
It's a shame about the bearing and pinion, but it coming along very nicely. :thumb:

[frddyj]

Savage Flux :slayer: rockout

[J1A1H]

Yea i am very impressed with them includinig the run time! I definitely will be buying more of these packs!

Didnt have time to put the batt box mounts on just yet... but i have a reason too now.

After installing a new pinion and replacing a bent shock shaft...
I took the car out for another road run since my last one ended so early due to the pinion...

I ran the truck very lightly to warm te motor and lipos a little and went to do a high speed run... before i could do the run, i turned to line up and all of a sudden, the pinion completely stripped and chipped a tooth on the spur too!!!!!!

Dont know why this happend... i think my motor wasnt aligned correctly?

Very disappointed...
i will have damage pictures tomorrow...

[J1A1H]

Due to not posting in a while, i thought i would update you lot as to what is going on and what is to come etc...

I have been running my savage and having a lot of fun with it... The centre diff is holding up and performing nicely with the new 500k oil. and the 40c turnigy lipos are awesome, as well as some nanotechs i have too...

Here is a teaser vid from the last meet i was at...

Youtube Teaser Bash Vid (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b38Xt_SCD-8&feature=player_embedded)

Here is a picture from the day too...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/SavageXXLJump.jpg


Anyway... my plans at the moment...

As it is winter here... i can no longer wrench outside as it is just tooooo cold... So i have been making a new workspace in my garden...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-10-27124325.jpg

How i set it up on the inside

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-11-03172209.jpg


So at the moment... i am still trying to see what i want to do, and get everything built correctly for the XXL Savage...

As the new MMMHV (12s version) is not available yet and i have a feeling it wont be available for the next couple months due to the 8s version being released first... I have decided to tear the truck down COMPLETELY AGAIN and get all the alloy bits re anodised in Orange or Gold (most prob orange)

Also the reason for this rebuild is because i am building a second savage...

I am starting to miss the Standing Back flips, quadrouple back flips of jumps #and the crazy hecticness that a stock length savage flux is known for....

So i have starting piecing a savage together out of all my spare bits, and fell a little short. This is why i am going to take bits off the XXL savage and purchase all new bits for the XXL so it is shiny and sparkly once again and ready for 9s power!!!!!!

Plus it is NO LONGER POSSIBLE to jump the XXL... It is just a little too heavy, and too long, resulting in annoying arm breakages etc... So it will just be a handling, speed machine and the stock flux will be my hardcore basher....

So this is where i am at currently....

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-11-05162207.jpg

I will be keeping this as stock as possible, but will be doing the usual BP upggrades...
I was going to buy some more BP Diffs but i will just take them from the XXL Savage and use HD Diffs in the GH Bulks as frddy from HPISF has been using his old stock HD Diffs in the GH Bulks with Much success as there is no flex... If they fail, i will just change them eventually... But this is one way to save some money in the mean time.

Need some integy rear hubs and i may stick with plastic front hubs on the basher for now... But ill see...

What i am also considering at the moment is a flat base chassi for a savage... It would be awesome for racnig purposes for LCG etc... but i am doing it to make my life easier... as i said this will be a hardcore basher, and things will go wrong..., we all know how hard it is to work on a savage tranny and change a pinion if something goes wrong... so i thought a flat chassis would make things simpler... AND MOST OF ALL... UNIQUE!


This is what the design is like at the moment... Thanks to the offset centre diff, the balance of the truck is perfect bringing the heavy lipos closer to the centre...

These are going to be manufactured for people who are interested...

The one pictured below is of stock length, but there will be an XL length version available too... If you are actually interested, PM Me and i will try and get one made up for you and give you pricing etc....

These will be available in the next month or so!

http://s6.mojalbum.com/flux-truggy-foto_2890536_17411695_zoom_18269249.jpg

http://s6.mojalbum.com/flux-truggy-foto_2890536_17411695_zoom_18269199.jpg

The only difference is that... the servo will be laying down, and a custom mount will be fitted for the ESC to sit above the laying down servo.

What do you think... and comments are welcome!!!

[texasavage]

Sweet preview :) I love your videos rockout

[J1A1H]

Thanks a lot texas! Hoping to have more up soon

Small update and some carnage!

I am just rebuilding my stock length savage at the moment... i thought i would wait till the MMMXL before i put the XXL Truck back together...

I found some Rear Diff destruction!!! when rebuilding the truck! I knew there was a problem with the rear diff, but had just thought the bevel and spider gears had stripped... CHECK THE PICS!!!![/align]

Now i have done a lot of damage to the savage in the past... but i have no idea how i have managed this.... i think it happend after a standing backflip on concrete... i think the diffs were not perfectly shimmed as they were shimmed for alloy bulks, and i had just put them in the stock plastic bulks... Here is what happend!!!

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-11-19234842.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-11-19234907.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-11-19234944.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2010-11-19235004.jpg


So i am finishing the truck off now... And hopefully it will be done soon and ill get some pics up...

[frddyj]

did you blow out any of the ring, pinion or internals or just grenade the cup.


ive never seen that one before.

[J1A1H]

The ring and pinion were fine freddy... but the internals had chewed each other up and obviously the diff cup was not re useable... haha

[mothman]

The ring and pinion were fine freddy... but the internals had chewed each other up and obviously the diff cup was not re useable... haha

Wow that BP ring and pinion is really bomb proof! cant believe that they still survived!

[redneck]

soo anyupdate

[DJSCUBASTEVE]

Awsome job!!!!

[J1A1H]

UPDATES

wow... just checked my last post on here!!! Absolutely ages!

Im back and ready to work on the truck! been finishing Uni and went off to Philippines to do some volunteer work which was awesome!

Savage is in a million pieces but i have plans to get it back together... so watch this space! :)

[what the FLUX]

hey Josh nice ad for BP gears lol

are the Turnigy 40c packs holding up well?

[J1A1H]

I havent been running the truck to much.. but everytime i do use them, they perform really well!!! There was no real difference between these and my nano tech 45/90c lipos... but the hyperions 35c lipos are still the best in perforance but the worst in build quality. That is definitely what i have found

[J1A1H]

Some Updates & Images and progress

Centre diff/mech brakes and motor relocation

I had to put the centre diff and motor relocation on hold just for an extremely short while. I cannot use my existing TVPs as the 4mm alloy plates are causing problems while mounting.

I have chopped and drilled to many holes in my TVPs that they seem a little weaker.
I got two side plates made up which will go over the existing tvps...
They will be anodised in black so you should hardly notice them. And considering the lipo boxes cover them basically, they will not really be noticed.
Having these new plates, means i can now remount all my internals exactly how i want them and wont be limited to where i am available to mount them.

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/flux5t1.png


Next update
LST HUB MOD

I am working out and currently doing an LST 2 Hub conversion.

Everyone knows that the Savage Hubs are at very best OK. The two bearing setup is weak ....

The LST conversion offers the possibility of running 3-4 bearings per hub!
Offers increased width without the need for extenders.
The Use of CVDs (no more shafts popping out of axles)

In order to get the lst hubs to fit the savage arms, only minor sanding of the hubs were required luckily!
To get the CVDs to work with the diff... i am using vorza diff axles
some pictures of me mocking up the hubs...


http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2011-02-18154616.jpg

Note where the hinge pin is in the pic below
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2011-02-18154629.jpg

The hinge pin needs to sit as close to the bulk as possible to allow correct distance for CVD to work
I measured this to 6.5mm wider than stock
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2011-02-18154642.jpg

Increased width over stock
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2011-02-18154719.jpg

And the bulk braces being made up.
2x 4mm thick 7075alloy and 2x 5mm thick 7075alloy
The lack of bulk support shouldnt weaken the system as the braces are now thicker and made from much tougher alloy.
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/bulkheadbrace.png


Attempt at Bulletproofing my diffs more.
You can find the build for my BP Diffs here...
I basically used an entire HPI Vorza Diff but used the Savage BP Ring and Pinion.
Means you can use 2x 8x16x5mm bearings.
Stronger, thicker hardened internals.
Shorter axles to work with LST CVDs

Loads of comparison pics etc...

Page 1 of rebuild # - # http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showpost.php?p=397619&postcount=74
Page 2 of rebuild # - # http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showpost.php?p=397620&postcount=75



A LOT MORE IS COMING!

[J1A1H]

My shock towers arrived today...
Im getting all my alloy pieces together before they go off for anodising :)

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2011-02-21102221.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/2011-02-21102510.jpg

i know, i know... ALLOY... but i want some bling, and considering my nylon cage takes the battering, they should be fine. 9s will give me more than enough power to push the elephant around

[J1A1H]

LOOK AT THESE BAD BOYS SO I CAN NOT GET MY HUB CONVERSION DONE!

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/braces.jpg

made from 7075 alloy! top ones are 5mm thick and bottom are 4mm thick!!!

[J1A1H]

Ok an update!

WOW AM I IMPRESSED

Dejan at Alza Racing has put together a brace kit to my exact requirements plus more!!!

All made from 7075 alloy
and the name of the truck as a little personal touch #8)

Ill let the pictures do the talking for now.
I will have full reviews etc coming up once i receive them and mock them up.

DEJAN YOU ARE A LEGEND!

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/001-4.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/002-2.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/003-2.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/004.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/Jahay87/005.jpg


As you can see... they mount the hinge pin outside of the bulkhead. This will give me the extra clearence i need to mount my LST Hubs!!!

[Hypnotiq]

wow.. thats amazing work right there..

[AJ Roberts]

Awesome Josh

[Shaun]

now thats service!! custom making parts that you need!!! awsome!!!!!

[J1A1H]

Yes! He is an awesome guy! But i have also done him a favour. Many were not liking his previous products i believe. He has got a lot of attention from many people regarding custom work now.
I definitely think more and more people will have custom rc's now

[frddyj]

Hi Josh, im interested to see how the bulk head and this product fit to the bulk plate and then onto the truck.

with this make the plastic bulk head stronger and keep the gear-mesh in perfect alignment (like the alloy bulks) so that we dont blow diffs?

can you provide a link to this? I'm interested.

[J1A1H]

This product is solely for the use of keeping the bulks protected.

No more ripped bulk heads. It will not do anything for your gear mesh like alloy bulks.

There is no link as he is just working on a kit for the stock savage... mine is extended for the LST hubs i want to put on.
But here is a link to his stock length pics

http://www.mojalbum.com/toplakd/savage-deli

[frddyj]

ok. im thinking that these braces in combination with the carbon-fiber tvps would give me the strenghth im after.


wonder if anyone would be willing to trade me a set of these for my GH Alloy Bulks :thinking:

[J1A1H]

THis is quite a funny situation to be in...

GH Bulks i do not believe are necessary unless you are running only 6s or more with the lower kv motors in order to keep a solid reliable mesh.

I found that the torque of a 1520 motor on 6s was too much for the plastic bulks to handle. After a while of the bulks being strained... i would find they would slightly distort causing mesh problems, most noticeable when taking off, heavy braking and whilst jumping. But a new plastic bulkhead would cure the problem once again. But this was my main reason for going for GH Bulks.

I never had these problems running 4-6s with my 2200kv motor!

Maybe dejan would swap a brace kit for a pair of GH Bulks :) he does have a few savages after all...

i am emailing him now... and will post back.

[ALZA-Racing]

I think you will more than like this braces.
I don't know if you saw, but the very front brace has also a hole in it
so it captures the pin and its closed on the front side, so the
pin can not slide in any way.

I hope they will arrive soon, so you can see them "LIVE"
Dejan